{"id":79467,"date":"2025-02-05T10:06:51","date_gmt":"2025-02-05T08:06:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/centcols.org\/de-briancon-a-lizoard-puis-saint-veran\/"},"modified":"2025-09-13T07:29:20","modified_gmt":"2025-09-13T05:29:20","slug":"from-briancon-to-lizoard-then-saint-veran","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/centcols.org\/en\/de-briancon-a-lizoard-puis-saint-veran\/","title":{"rendered":"From Brian\u00e7on to Izoard, then Saint-V\u00e9ran"},"content":{"rendered":"

Saturday 5th August,<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

End of our stay in Le Grand-Bornand. This weekend was certainly the most
busy on France's roads. Bison-Fut\u00e9 is seeing the dark side, but we're seeing the rosy side - a real pensioner's life. Instead of heading for Valence, the A9 and the Rh\u00f4ne valley, we're heading for the Hautes-Alpes on Saturday morning, with Brian\u00e7on at the foot of the Izoard as our first objective. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tomorrow, Sunday, traffic will be more fluid, so let's make the most of the day by taking a stroll along the back roads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n

Rather than heading for Valence, the A9 and the Rh\u00f4ne valley, we're heading for the Hautes-Alpes this Saturday morning, with Brian\u00e7on at the foot of the Izoard as our first objective.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tomorrow, Sunday, traffic will be more fluid, so let's make the most of the day by taking a stroll along the back roads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the moment, we're covering the Val Sulens, via Saint-F\u00e9reol, as a farewell to the route I've travelled so many times this summer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Apr\u00e8s Albertville, le GPS prend le pouvoir. L\u2019arriv\u00e9e est pr\u00e9vue \u00e0 Brian\u00e7on vers 10 h 40. Ce sera un peu tard pour attaquer le col de l\u2019Izoard,
but it's feasible with the possibility of refreshments
to the Napol\u00e9on hut, almost at the top of the pass.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
The church at Serraval in Val Sulens<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n

Bonjour l\u2019Italie, bonjour Bardonecchia. On pourra dire, sans mentir, en rentrant de vacances, nous avons fait un crochet en Italie. \u00c7a fait chic ! Cela aura dur\u00e9 vingt minutes \u00e0 peine, le temps de constater que les Alpes se prolongent bien, au-del\u00e0 de nos fronti\u00e8res. Et sit\u00f4t la sortie de la ville, la route attaque le col de l'Echelle<\/strong> which takes us back to France. There is no longer a border, but the state of the road is sufficiently explicit to give us our bearings. Narrow, bumpy road, waiting for subsidies and then, all of a sudden, a nice surface, road markings, a wider road. This is France rolling out the red carpet for us. Even the vegetation is up to scratch.

After the rather arid transalpine slope, the road winds through a well-stocked wood taken over by picnickers. It's now midday, and although our plans have been thwarted, there's still some good to come from the unexpected, as here we are in the Clar\u00e9e valley<\/strong>. Cette vall\u00e9e, j\u2019y pense depuis des ann\u00e9es, depuis f\u00e9vrier 1980 exactement. Pourquoi tant de pr\u00e9cision ? Gr\u00e2ce aux BPF l\u00e0
again.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

On that occasion, I climbed the Vars pass<\/strong> \u00e0 v\u00e9lo, sous le soleil, dans un paysage d\u2019une puret\u00e9 cristalline et j\u2019avais point\u00e9 le BPF de ce col. O\u00f9 est le rapport avec la vall\u00e9e de la Clar\u00e9e ? J\u2019y viens. Je me souviens d\u2019avoir lu, ou plut\u00f4t d\u00e9vor\u00e9, l\u2019un des premiers livres qui ouvrait une nouvelle fen\u00eatre en litt\u00e9rature, celle du roman de terroir. C\u2019\u00e9tait \u00ab La soupe aux herbes sauvages \u00bb d\u2019Emilie Carles. J\u2019ai toujours en m\u00e9moire ces moments que j\u2019ai pass\u00e9s, au soleil d\u2019une chambre lambriss\u00e9e, aux odeurs de bois, derri\u00e8re une fen\u00eatre donnant sur les montagnes enneig\u00e9es. Le soleil du matin sur la neige, la chaleur, la douceur d\u2019un g\u00eete montagnard et le t\u00e9moignage d\u2019Emilie Carles, porte drapeau d\u2019un combat pour la d\u00e9fense de la vall\u00e9e de la Clar\u00e9e, elle institutrice de montagne retrait\u00e9e et moi jeune instituteur alors. \u00c7a ne s\u2019oublie pas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here we are. At the foot of the pass, we turn right towards the upper Clar\u00e9e valley<\/strong>It's a long way from Brian\u00e7on. Given the time, it's too late to drive before lunch, so while we're here, we might as well visit and enjoy the place. We reach the end of the valley, where the road stops for motorists. The rest is up to the hikers, and by the time we reach the full car park, many of them have set off along the trails. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 N\u00e9vache<\/strong> nous trouvons notre bonheur dans un pr\u00e9, au bord de la Clar\u00e9e qui coule \u00e0 cinq m\u00e8tres de nous. L\u2019auberge est de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la route et la serveuse porte nos assiettes dans ce d\u00e9cor bucolique, les pieds dans l\u2019herbe, le fond de la vall\u00e9e se perdant au loin, les montagnes aux pentes abruptes et caillouteuses sur un c\u00f4t\u00e9, le torrent pr\u00e8s de nous, offrant cette fra\u00eecheur bienfaisante accompagn\u00e9e par un vent bienvenu lui aussi. \u00c0 cet instant, samedi midi, nous pensons \u00e0 la vall\u00e9e du Rh\u00f4ne certainement bloqu\u00e9e par une temp\u00e9rature proche de 40 \u00b0C. Nous sommes si bien ici dans ce bout du monde ! Pour ce qui est de la chaleur, je la redoute au vu de ce qui m\u2019attend. Et je le v\u00e9rifie bient\u00f4t quand, ayant repris notre route vers Brian\u00e7on, le thermom\u00e8tre grimpe in\u00e9luctablement \u00e0 mesure que la route redescend. \u00c0 Val-des-Pr\u00e9s on fr\u00f4le les 38\u00b0C puis \u00e0 Brian\u00e7on les 40 \u00b0C sont atteints.
<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Brian\u00e7on, seen from the first slopes of the Isoard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Le col d'Izoard <\/strong>starts as soon as you leave the city. And from the very first turns of the wheel, the penalty falls. I should have said put my bike in the oven rather than get on it, because the heat is so stifling, like in an oven. The only positive point was that the wind was favourable. I regret it for once, because on the rare occasions when it's against me, I feel a semblance of coolness that revives me a little. But it doesn't last. I
I play with my computer, displaying mileage and elevation gain. I hesitate to display the
temp\u00e9rature, j\u2019ai trop peur de perdre d\u00e9finitivement le moral. Et pourtant j\u2019y viens. 39 \u00b0C, puis par dixi\u00e8me \u00e7a continue \u00e0 monter. Moi aussi, et la pente n\u2019est pas tr\u00e8s conciliante. C\u2019est d\u00e9cid\u00e9, \u00e0 40 \u00b0C j\u2019arr\u00eate. \u00c0 41 \u00b0C je me dis que je suis fou, 64 ans le mois dernier, ce n\u2019est pas prudent, je ne suis plus tr\u00e8s jeune. \u00c0 41,2 \u00b0C, je bascule mon compteur sur l\u2019heure, Inutile de continuer \u00e0 regarder cette temp\u00e9rature affich\u00e9e, \u00e7a me d\u00e9moralise. Je me rends bien compte que la chaleur est difficilement supportable. Mon bidon d\u2019eau, le pauvre, est comme moi, encore temp\u00e9r\u00e9 il y a un quart d\u2019heure, c\u2019est maintenant un vrai bouillon, une tisane insipide. Soudain, oh miracle, de l\u2019ombre ! Ce n\u2019est pas qu\u2019il fasse bon tout d\u2019un coup, on dira que c\u2019est juste un peu mieux, ne plus sentir le soleil qui br\u00fble la peau, perdre deux ou trois degr\u00e9s, c\u2019est d\u00e9j\u00e0 le d\u00e9but du bonheur. De plus la pente semble s\u2019adoucir. Les kilom\u00e8tres d\u00e9filent, au ralenti bien s\u00fbr, mais chaque kilom\u00e8tre retranch\u00e9 du total, c\u2019est l\u2019espoir qui augmente, m\u00eame si le corps faiblit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Past Cervi\u00e8res <\/strong>j\u2019ai enfin trouv\u00e9 mon rythme de croisi\u00e8re qui oscille entre 10 et 12 km\/h. Un peu d\u2019ombre et quelques lacets qui rompent la monotonie de l\u2019ascension, offrent des portions o\u00f9 le vent vient en alternance pousser le cycliste ou le rafra\u00eechir. L\u2019automatisme s\u2019installe. Le sommet se devine au loin. Les 2000 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude sont maintenant d\u00e9pass\u00e9s. Les derniers lacets semblent plus serr\u00e9s et la pente plus rude. Qu\u2019importe, voil\u00e0 le refuge Napol\u00e9on. Je m\u2019y arr\u00eate pour appr\u00e9cier d\u00e9j\u00e0 le vent des cimes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On enquiry, there's a souvenir shop at the top of the pass, so that's where I'll validate my BPF. The last kilometre is a real pleasure, the feeling of having won the race, of having reached the goal, of realising a long-cherished project.
<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"
In the last kilometre of the Col de l'Isoard - 2360 metres<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

It's done, it's in the bag. Now let's enjoy. The view is magnificent on both sides of the pass. On the left is a stele dated 1934, a reminder to passing tourists that this splendid Alpine route is the fruit of human labour and that these passes where we sweat for our leisure, others sweated there to earn their bread. The panorama is exceptional, with these flat, smooth mountains, covered in a kind of sand, plunging down towards the valley in a straight, sloping course, as if everything were going to plan.
sliding towards the bottom. Slopes for tightrope walkers only, with the occasional suffering tree clinging on, or rocks pointing skywards, their rigidity seemingly defying erosion. And the best is yet to come. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As soon as the descent begins, the Casse D\u00e9serte site comes into view, a mineral landscape where erosion has rolled everything in its path, forming vertiginous scree slopes overlooked by a sparse forest of jagged peaks.
Some of the finest pages of the Tour de France have been written on these slopes. A stele in memory of campionissimo Fausto Coppi and champion Louison Bobet reminds passers-by of this. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
La Casse d\u00e9serte<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The Coppi and Bobet stele<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The descent to Brunissard and then Arvieux is like zooming in on the valley floor. It's also a moment of recovery and speed that soothes the sensation of heat.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But already a fork in the road is signalling the end of playtime. Here's the Guil valley, which I climb up before turning right towards Saint-V\u00e9ran<\/strong>. By the way, Ch\u00e2teau-Queyras<\/strong> boasts a lovely view of its medieval castle, where Vauban once again ruled.
<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Chateau-Queyras<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

I know that St-V\u00e9ran<\/strong> is the highest commune in Europe at over 2000 metres altitude. I quickly did the maths, from 2360 metres at l'Izoard and after 15 kilometres of descent, I should be at around 1000 metres altitude, so I've got another 1000 metres or so to climb.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Given the man's state of freshness, I'm going to make my ascent of Golgotha, my way of the cross in short, but freely consented to. Later, memories will embellish the episode. You have to find something to motivate you when the sun is beating down on your back, when your legs are crushing the pedals and the road is going by in slow motion, when every bend you put your hopes behind only increases the difficulty.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alors que dire du Queyras ? Je ne peux pas en faire les louanges, mon jugement serait trop subjectif. Malgr\u00e9 tout je parlerai d\u2019une beaut\u00e9 que je qualifierai d\u2019aust\u00e8re, d\u2019aride, de min\u00e9rale. Le soleil m\u2019influence c\u2019est s\u00fbr, mais il faut comprendre d\u2019o\u00f9 je viens, du Grand-Bornand, Haute-Savoie, aux vall\u00e9es larges et verdoyantes, aux montagnes accessibles et bois\u00e9es, aux routes sympathiques que je c\u00f4toyais le matin. Or il est bient\u00f4t 17 heures et cela fait presque 4 heures que je suis sur l\u2019asphalte, comme sur un gril. Je ne dirai pas que je sue, en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 je coule l\u2019eau, la sueur faisant des petits ruisseaux sur mes tibias. Mes jambes brillent d\u2019un rouge cuivr\u00e9, comme apr\u00e8s une ond\u00e9e. Au point o\u00f9 j\u2019en suis, j\u2019y arriverai, je vais avancer, comme le pigeon sous la pluie, imperturbable aux \u00e9l\u00e9ments ext\u00e9rieurs. Avancer, arriver l\u00e0-haut, \u00e0 ce village dont j\u2019aper\u00e7ois enfin les maisons perch\u00e9es au-dessus du vide. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

And the last two kilometres are the hardest, not just because of the cyclist's state of disrepair, but really the steepest.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
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In a street in Saint-V\u00e9ran<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n


Saint-V\u00e9ran,<\/strong> one of the most beautiful villages in France, an appellation distilled down to the last drop, generally justified, but an appellation that attracts... tourists. And as is often the case, the motorised crowd is kept outside the town, in return for a parking fee. Parking 1, 2, 3...
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We are now preoccupied with our accommodation for the evening. We take the first street up to Les Chalets du Villard, where we find a hotel that is very much in the mountain style, wood and stone, blending into the landscape with nothing to draw our attention. The interior made us want to sleep and eat here tonight, which would be the high point of our holiday. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unfortunately, the hotel was fully booked. The setting was good and so was the owner. He spent
un bon quart d\u2019heure au t\u00e9l\u00e9phone pour prospecter chez ses coll\u00e8gues des environs avant de nous trouver un point de chute \u00e0 Abri\u00e8s, dans la vall\u00e9e. De plus il m\u2019a accord\u00e9 le fameux tampon dans l\u2019une des six cases de mon carton BPF des Hautes-Alpes. \u00c7a valait bien une consommation, cal\u00e9 dans un bon fauteuil. C\u2019est l\u00e0 o\u00f9 on s\u2019aper\u00e7oit que certaines bi\u00e8res ont un go\u00fbt sup\u00e9rieur aux autres. La premi\u00e8re gorg\u00e9e de bi\u00e8re de Philippe Delerm, ce livre qui d\u00e9taille ces petits bonheurs du quotidien souvent non per\u00e7us. Qu\u2019aurait-il \u00e9crit s\u2019il l\u2019avait bue \u00e0 Saint-V\u00e9ran au terme d\u2019un apr\u00e8s-midi ext\u00e9nuant ? Un grand bonheur certainement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n


To be honest, we didn't get to walk through the whole village of Saint-V\u00e9ran, because of the time, the heat and our fatigue, but we did take the time to capture on film some of the narrow streets and, of course, the large traditional houses that serve as homes, stables and crop storage areas. The open attics let the air circulate to dry the hay. The weathered wood, which is omnipresent in these buildings, poses a threat in the event of fire; these houses are potential Midsummer fires. The majority of these houses date from the 17th and 18th centuries and have preserved their charm of yesteryear. This village has a surprisingly well-preserved and enduring soul and past. We regretfully leave Saint-V\u00e9ran, where we would have liked to spend the night.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
St V\u00e9ran - Typical attic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Abri\u00e8s - chilly morning<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


At 7 p.m., we check into Chalet Lanza in Abri\u00e8s, a modest, family-run Alpine hotel where the rustic cuisine will fill us up this evening. After the 41\u00b0C of the Izoard, a short stroll before bedtime is very welcome in this village on the doorstep of Italy. The evening stroll along the banks of the Guil, a torrent born just above us in the mountains, brings us that pleasant coolness that predisposes us to sleep.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And the next day, the mountain delivers one of its meteorological tricks that we're starting to get used to, but which always surprises us: a little 12\u00b0C topped off with a thunderstorm. The Italian traders who had come especially for this particular Sunday market retreated under their canvases. And we head back to the H\u00e9rault, leaving behind us Abri\u00e8s, the last stop on our 2017 summer holiday.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n

Texte et photos :
Ren\u00e9 BALDELLON
CC Vias.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
<\/div>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Samedi 5 ao\u00fbt, Fin de notre s\u00e9jour au Grand-Bornand. Ce week-end est certainement le pluscharg\u00e9 sur les routes de France. Bison-Fut\u00e9 voit noir et nous, nous voyons la vie en rose, une vraie vie de retrait\u00e9s. Plut\u00f4t que rejoindre Valence, l\u2019A9 et la vall\u00e9e du Rh\u00f4ne, c\u2019est vers les Hautes-Alpes que nous nous dirigeons ce […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":79468,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[82,129],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-79467","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyages","category-gazette"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nDe Brian\u00e7on \u00e0 l'Izoard, puis Saint-V\u00e9ran - Club des Cent Cols<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/centcols.org\/en\/from-briancon-to-lizoard-then-saint-veran\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"De Brian\u00e7on \u00e0 l'Izoard, puis Saint-V\u00e9ran - Club des Cent Cols\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Samedi 5 ao\u00fbt, Fin de notre s\u00e9jour au Grand-Bornand. 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