{"id":84790,"date":"2025-02-02T08:50:12","date_gmt":"2025-02-02T06:50:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/centcols.org\/?p=84790"},"modified":"2025-07-10T08:51:43","modified_gmt":"2025-07-10T06:51:43","slug":"thonon-antibes-par-les-prealpes-jean-marc-lefevre-cc-3331","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/centcols.org\/en\/thonon-antibes-par-les-prealpes-jean-marc-lefevre-cc-3331\/","title":{"rendered":"Thonon - Antibes \"via the Pre-Alps\" (Jean-Marc Lef\u00e8vre, CC 3331)"},"content":{"rendered":"
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(984 km – 47 cols – 17962 m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9)<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Preamble<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

On the strength of my experience in 2000, on the famous route from Thonon to Trieste, I decided this year to do it again on the French side, and thus complete the crossing of the Alpine arc, that formidable rocky barrier stretching from the Adriatic to the Mediterranean.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le projet mis sur pieds consistait de rallier Thonon \u00e0 Antibes par les Pr\u00e9alpes (Chartreuse, Vercors, Provence) et faire le retour Antibes Thonon par \u00ab l\u2019Alpine \u00bb et ses grands cols (Bonette , Izoard , Iseran etc \u2026), le tout repr\u00e9sentait la bagatelle de 1600 kms, 90 cols, et 36000 m\u00e8tres de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This copious and tempting programme was to be completed in 14 stages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Malheureusement, la vie n\u2019\u00e9tant pas toujours un \u00ab long fleuve tranquille \u00bb le voyage se termina arriv\u00e9 \u00e0 Antibes, par la faute d\u2019une route compl\u00e8tement \u00e9boul\u00e9e qui retarda mon p\u00e9riple d\u2019une journ\u00e9e, et comme je n\u2019ai pas des cong\u00e9s extensibles… vous devinez la suite !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The start<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Sunday 17 June, departure by car for Thonon les bains. Again this year, I'll be spending the night at the accommodation centre (a kind of youth hostel, very welcoming and very clean).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Monday 18th June, 8am, the start of the \"Pr\u00e9alpine\" adventure. The first checkpoint, the first pass (Col de Saxel), was passed in the rain, which didn't leave me for the rest of the day, but tomorrow the weather is supposed to be fine over the Alps. I'd like to see!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The route mapped out by Georges Rossini crosses the Chartreuse and Vercors regions before arriving in Provence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je ferai 136 kms pour ma premi\u00e8re \u00e9tape et grimperai 7 cols, dont la Colombi\u00e8re et le difficile col de Romme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Every trip has its share of gags, some comic, some epic. Today it's all about the comedy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the ascent to the Col de Romme, as I was passing through a charming mountain village, and the road was rising steeply, I asked a lady who was watching me, leaning against her window:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

-\" Excuse me Madam, how much further is it to the Col de Romme?\"<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The lady, who obviously didn't understand my question, replied:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

-\u00ab Eh ben ! Rome, il vous en reste des kilom\u00e8tres ! ! !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the Plaine Joux checkpoint, I asked the bistro owner:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

-Is this bad weather going to last much longer?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

-\u00ab J\u2018esp\u00e8re toute la semaine ! ! ! \u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No comment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And to end the day on a high note, as I was making a phone call from a payphone, a young girl who probably thought my conversation was too long shouted at me in the street. What a way to welcome tourists (cyclo). The scene took place in Menthon st Bernard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The breakdown<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

La 2 i\u00e8me \u00e9tape, sans pluie, longue de 127 km allait de Menthon-Saint-Bernard \u00e0 Saint-Pierre-d\u2019Entremont ; tr\u00e8s belle travers\u00e9e d\u2019Annecy, belle ville avec une piste cyclable autour du lac, \u00e0 voir !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ascent of the Granier pass, Mont Revard and the Col de Leschaux, where the gag of the day took place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alors que j\u2019amor\u00e7ais la descente, mon regard observait probablement le paysage, je ne vis pas la pierre sur la route et je heurtais violemment l\u2019obstacle. Bilan, un coup s\u00e9v\u00e8re \u00e0 ma jante arri\u00e8re qui provoqua un \u00ab saut \u00bb d\u00e9sagr\u00e9able.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There aren't many bike shops in the mountains, so I took advantage of my visit to Chamb\u00e9ry to try a quick repair. After riding around for a while, I finally found the mechanic who agreed to unveil my wheel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Avec plus d\u2019une heure de retard, j\u2019attaque le col du Granier, 15 kms de mont\u00e9e assez faciles, il est 18 h 15\u2019 quand j\u2019arrive \u00e0 Saint-Pierre-d\u2019Entremont. J\u2019avais pr\u00e9vu encore la mont\u00e9e du Cucheron mais vu l\u2019heure tardive je pr\u00e9f\u00e8re m\u2019arr\u00eater.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Et voil\u00e0 comment le programme que j\u2019avais trac\u00e9 se trouve bouscul\u00e9. A peine 2 \u00e9tapes et d\u00e9j\u00e0 25 kms de retard et surtout l\u2019obligation de d\u00e9commander les h\u00f4tels. Une chose est s\u00fbre l\u2019ann\u00e9e prochaine je ne r\u00e9serve plus d\u2019avance !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cycling touring does not rhyme with adventure<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The 3th<\/sup> The next stage will be a succession of gags that could have gone badly wrong, but wisdom prevailed, and that's just as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The day begins with an ascent of the Col du Cucheron, followed by the Col de Porte. After rounding Grenoble via the Vence and Cl\u00e9menci\u00e8re passes, the route takes in the Veurey-Voroise Autrans section, via the Montaud pass and the Mortier pass. The organiser points out that a landslide has washed away part of the road on this section, but that in dry weather it is possible to use a footpath. The weather was fine today, so I decided to take this route. When I arrived in Montaud, I had something to eat and asked the innkeeper about the state of the road. The good woman strongly advised me not to continue, even telling me that the previous week, a cyclist had been evacuated by helicopter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Que faire ? Je suis \u00e0 moiti\u00e9 chemin, 6 kms me s\u00e9parent de l\u2019obstacle, tant pis j\u2019y vais, apr\u00e8s tout j\u2019aime mieux juger par moi m\u00eame.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The road is completely deserted, littered with branches and stones, and the further you go, the more frightening it becomes. Signs remind us of the dangerous nature of the area. I'm seriously starting to put my foot down. At last I'm there. There's nothing left of the road, a whole mountainside has collapsed and I'm at least 200 metres from the other side.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

J\u2019essaye de m\u2019engager sur un semblant de chemin, mais \u00e0 chacun de mes pas, je provoque un \u00e9boulement de pierres. Mon v\u00e9lo, charg\u00e9 de ses 3 sacoches n\u2019est pas fait pour me faciliter la tache. Je fais demi tour, et d\u00e9croche mes sacoches, je viendrai les r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer apr\u00e8s avoir emmen\u00e9 mon v\u00e9lo de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9. Nouvelle tentative, nouvelle frayeur ! Un cyclo venant en face, tente le passage par le bas, il glisse \u00e0 chaque pas. Je r\u00e9alise enfin que l\u2019aubergiste avait raison, c\u2019est beaucoup trop dangereux. Si je glisse, avec le poids du v\u00e9lo, je ne pourrai rien faire et j\u2019irai m\u2019\u00e9craser quelques centaines de m\u00e8tres plus bas ! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

La mort dans l\u2019\u00e2me je renonce, beaucoup trop vieux pour jouer les h\u00e9ros, ou beaucoup trop jeune pour mourir ! Le v\u00e9lo doit rester une partie de plaisir et jamais d\u00e9raper \u00e0 mon sens dans l\u2019aventure !\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Il y a des jours o\u00f9 rien ne va !<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Une fois revenu sur la route, un doute surgit dans mon esprit : Je n\u2019arriverai jamais \u00e0 Antibes dans les d\u00e9lais que j\u2019ai pr\u00e9vus, et \u00e0 ce moment l\u00e0 je r\u00e9alise qu\u2019il me sera impossible de faire l\u2019aller et le retour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But no matter, I'm forced to turn back anyway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

D\u00e9cid\u00e9ment, il y a des jours ou l\u2019on ferait mieux de rester sagement \u00e0 la maison ! Jugez vous-m\u00eame ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019organisateur, pr\u00e9voyant, fournit un itin\u00e9raire de substitution au cas o\u00f9 le pr\u00e9tendant \u00e0 Thonon Antibes d\u00e9ciderait de renoncer \u00e0 emprunter le chemin muletier. C\u2019est ce que je fais, je fais demi tour, et amorce la descente pour retrouver le parcours bis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Peu apr\u00e8s Montaud, la DDE (direction d\u00e9partementale de l\u2019\u00e9quipement) a d\u00e9cid\u00e9 aujourd\u2019hui de refaire la route. J\u2019aper\u00e7ois au loin les engins de chantier. Je m\u2019approche… soudain, pratiquement \u00e0 deux pas de la \u00ab goudronneuse \u00bb ma roue avant s\u2019enfonce dans l\u2019asphalte tout chaud. Le premier r\u00e9flexe, est de mettre le pied \u00e0 terre, mal m\u2019en pris, mon pied rentre compl\u00e8tement dans 10 cm de goudron. Je crie de rage. Devant ce spectacle d\u00e9solant d\u2019un cyclo un peu d\u00e9sempar\u00e9, les ouvriers m\u2019aident \u00e0 porter mon v\u00e9lo, d\u00e9placent leur engin qui occupe toute la largeur de la chauss\u00e9e, et me guident vers l\u2019avant sur \u00ab enfin \u00bb la terre ferme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le premier constat est d\u00e9solant, outre le fait que mes chaussures (cales comprises) soient \u00ab entartin\u00e9es \u00bb de goudron, mes roues ressemblent \u00e0 des pneus de VTT. L\u2019ouvrier un rien moqueur, mais malgr\u00e9 tout plein de compassion dit que cela ne tiendra pas, et qu\u2019en roulant tout se d\u00e9collera. L\u2019avenir lui donnera raison.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The alternative route takes a road with heavy traffic, and the heat and fatigue are enough to discourage any cyclist. With the sound advice of a member of the 100 cols (CC 4221) whom I met there by chance, I stopped off in Lans en Vercors this evening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

J\u2019ai maintenant la certitude que je n\u2019arriverai pas \u00e0 remonter le retard accumul\u00e9. Dommage mais c\u2019est ainsi ! ! !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Des paysages grandioses !<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This 4th<\/sup> stage, will be the best of the trip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Travers\u00e9e des gorges de la Bourne (tr\u00e8s sombre, impressionnant), ascension du col de la Machine, et descente magnifique dans la \u00ab Combe Laval \u00bb, panorama grandiose, un des points de vue le plus joli que je connaisse : \u00e0 voir absolument.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je ferai \u00e9tape ce soir \u00e0 Vassieux en Vercors (haut lieu de la r\u00e9sistance), apr\u00e8s 114 kms sous le chaud soleil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The next day, the stage begins with the ascent of the Col du Rousset (easy on this side) and the crossing of its long, well-lit tunnel. The descent to Die is a beautiful one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je prendrai le repas de midi dans une sympathique auberge en haut du col de Cabre. Excellent repas, id\u00e9al pour un cyclo : des lasagnes !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les 60 kms et les 3 cols qui me s\u00e9parent de Saint-Etienne-en-D\u00e9voluy o\u00f9 je fais \u00e9tape, me semblent faciles. J\u2019ai fait aujourd\u2019hui 133 kms et il est quand m\u00eame 18 heures lorsque je pose mon v\u00e9lo devant la porte du g\u00eete d\u2019\u00e9tape. La nuit sera calme, je suis le seul client. Il est vrai aussi que le g\u00eete n\u2019ouvre ses portes que demain, mais le gardien fort sympa, m\u2019autorise a y passer la nuit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The evening meal will be 'GARGANTUA' style, and all for a modest price.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Extreme heat, extreme fatigue<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I'm starting my 6th<\/sup> \u00e9tape dans le brouillard, par l\u2019ascension du col du Noyer. 10 kms sur une petite route isol\u00e9e o\u00f9 \u00e0 part quelques cyclos je ne vis personne. Par contre descente dangereuse, au milieu d\u2019un rallye de voitures anciennes, c\u2019est beau \u00e0 voir, mais parfois ils me font peur avec leurs guimbardes d\u2019un autre temps !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It's sweltering in the Alps today, and I'm tired, so I end this stage at Le Lauzet-en-Ubaye.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The hotel, Le Relais du Lac, where I decide to spend the night, is very nice, at least on the surface. The hotelier had warned me:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

-\" The room I have left has only one small window!\"<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Effectivement, la fen\u00eatre est petite, quasi inexistante, en fait il s\u2019agit d\u2019un trou de 20 cm2 dans le haut du mur, par laquelle le soleil p\u00e9n\u00e8tre tout de m\u00eame apportant un minimum de clart\u00e9. Mais que voulez-vous, quand la fatigue est l\u00e0, le repos s\u2019impose !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The room still cost 180 francs!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Two passes over 2000<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Apr\u00e8s une bonne nuit de repos, un copieux petit d\u00e9jeuner je suis dispo pour affronter les 2 cols \u00e0 plus de 2000 m\u00e8tres de ce p\u00e9riple. Le col d\u2019Allos (BCN\/BPF) qui se monte bien, pente pas trop s\u00e9v\u00e8re et beau paysage enneig\u00e9 et le col des Champs particuli\u00e8rement difficile, 16 kms d\u2019ascension avec de forts pourcentages, mais belle r\u00e9compense en haut avec un d\u00e9cor alpestre de toute beaut\u00e9, et la joie aussi de photographier mon v\u00e9lo appuy\u00e9 sur des talus de neige, vestige d\u2019un hiver rigoureux !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A beautiful crossing of the Daluis gorges, just before arriving in Entrevaux, a town fortified by Vauban. I'm sleeping tonight at the g\u00eete d'\u00e9tape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

J\u2019assiste ce soir l\u00e0 \u00e0 une procession peu ordinaire. Les hommes du village sont partis la veille avec \u00ab St Jean \u00bb (une statue grandeur nature), jusqu’\u00e0 une chapelle situ\u00e9e dans la montagne. Ils ont pass\u00e9 la nuit l\u00e0-haut (soir\u00e9e bien arros\u00e9e \u00e0 les entendre) et ce soir ils rentrent au village et vont ramener St Jean dans son \u00e9glise. La route principale est coup\u00e9e, des feux de bengal sont allum\u00e9s, le point de d\u00e9part du cort\u00e8ge se situe \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e d\u2019Entrevaux. Tout le village, Monsieur le cur\u00e9 en t\u00eate, part en direction de l\u2019\u00e9glise. Pris dans cette foule, je me sens oblig\u00e9 de les accompagner. Les hommes sont tous en costumes noirs, chapeaut\u00e9s, cravat\u00e9s, comme au temps jadis. Ils chantent des cantiques. Nous traversons tout le village, la foule est nombreuse, des villageois, des touristes, un cyclotouriste rentrent dans l\u2019\u00e9glise pour la messe. Il est 23 heures, j\u2019arrive \u00e0 m\u2019\u00e9clipser quand m\u00eame (ouf !) et apr\u00e8s un d\u00e9tour par la place du village o\u00f9 le bal disco succ\u00e8de aux cantiques (?) je regagne mon logis, ravi de cette soir\u00e9e bien surprenante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The end of the journey<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

La derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape commence fort : aucun caf\u00e9 ouvert ce matin \u00e0 Entrevaux. J\u2019ach\u00e8te malgr\u00e9 tout 2 pains au chocolat et je d\u00e9jeune \u00e0 la sortie du village.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I don't like to leave without a coffee, and I like even less to start the day with a tough climb. Well, I'm in for a treat here, with the Col de F\u00e9lines for breakfast, which is pretty tough (at first, in the first few bends), followed by the dreaded Col du Buis, with its 17 % gradient - tough! tough!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It's still as hot and heavy as ever, and I'm not very enthusiastic when I arrive at Gr\u00e9oli\u00e9res, the penultimate checkpoint on this tour. Another pass (Vence) and then it's a bumpy descent to Cagnes sur Mer and the laborious crossing of Antibes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The last stamp on my route book, and a good beer to finally appreciate the end of this unforgettable pre-Alpine hike.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jean-Marc <\/strong>LEF\u00c8VRE<\/strong>    29 September 2001.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I can provide interested cyclists with a breakdown of my stages and a list of hotels.
Send your request to : jean-marc.lefevre2@wanadoo.fr<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
The landscapes of the Chartreuse<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
La combe Laval<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
The beautiful descent from the Col du Rousset towards Die.
Impressionnant !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Le col d’Allos, 2250 m<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
The Daluis gorges<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n
Il fait beau ! Il fait chaud ! Aujourd’hui dans les Alpes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
La fin d’une inoubliable randonn\u00e9e !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

(984 km – 47 cols – 17962 m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9) Pr\u00e9ambule Fort de mon exp\u00e9rience de l\u2019an 2000, sur le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre parcours qui m\u00e8ne de Thonon \u00e0 Trieste, je d\u00e9cidais cette ann\u00e9e de r\u00e9cidiver c\u00f4t\u00e9 Fran\u00e7ais, et de finir ainsi la travers\u00e9e compl\u00e8te de l\u2019arc Alpin, cette formidable barri\u00e8re rocheuse qui s\u2019\u00e9tend de l\u2019Adriatique \u00e0 la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":84806,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[82],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-84790","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyages"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThonon - Antibes "par les Pr\u00e9alpes" (Jean-Marc Lef\u00e8vre, CC 3331) - Club des Cent Cols<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/centcols.org\/en\/thonon-antibes-par-les-prealpes-jean-marc-lefevre-cc-3331\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Thonon - Antibes "par les Pr\u00e9alpes" (Jean-Marc Lef\u00e8vre, CC 3331) - Club des Cent Cols\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"(984 km – 47 cols – 17962 m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9) Pr\u00e9ambule Fort de mon exp\u00e9rience de l\u2019an 2000, sur le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre parcours qui m\u00e8ne de Thonon \u00e0 Trieste, je d\u00e9cidais cette ann\u00e9e de r\u00e9cidiver c\u00f4t\u00e9 Fran\u00e7ais, et de finir ainsi la travers\u00e9e compl\u00e8te de l\u2019arc Alpin, cette formidable barri\u00e8re rocheuse qui s\u2019\u00e9tend de l\u2019Adriatique \u00e0 la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e. 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