{"id":84918,"date":"2025-01-30T22:20:54","date_gmt":"2025-01-30T20:20:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/centcols.org\/?p=84918"},"modified":"2025-10-15T03:27:35","modified_gmt":"2025-10-15T01:27:35","slug":"chauny-thonon-venise-jean-marc-lefevre-cc-3331","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/centcols.org\/en\/chauny-thonon-venise-jean-marc-lefevre-cc-3331\/","title":{"rendered":"Chauny-Thonon-Venise (Jean-Marc Lef\u00e8vre, CC 3331)"},"content":{"rendered":"
<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n
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The end of a wonderful adventure<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Preamble<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Begun in 2000, the great crossing of the Alps (Alpine and Pre-Alpine) ended on 11 July 2003 in VENICE, at the end of the 4th<\/sup> ride organised by the Cyclos-Randonneurs-Thononais and led by Georges ROSSINI.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Afin de finir en beaut\u00e9, je d\u00e9cidais de partir cette ann\u00e9e de la ville o\u00f9 je r\u00e9side : Chauny (Aisne 02) et ajouter ainsi 600 km et 4 \u00e9tapes \u00e0 ce p\u00e9riple.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It's customary in the industry to say that Thonon-Venice is the hardest and the most beautiful. I can confirm the 2th<\/sup> point, but personally Thonon-Trieste will remain the most difficult of the four for me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chauny-Thonon-Venice, completed in 14 stages, was a succession of beautiful and grandiose stages, pure joy. The particularly hot weather this year was undoubtedly a major contributory factor. It's worth noting, however, that the start at the end of June enabled me to avoid the heat and the inconveniences that go with it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chauny and Venice are 1878 kilometres apart, with 23,000 metres of ascent and 60 mountain passes. I invite you to follow some of the action in these few lines...<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Preparation<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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On a journey like this, you can't leave anything to chance, and as a perfectionist by nature, I always apply myself to this exhilarating phase of a journey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A long time ago, I decided to go on my long-distance treks alone. Although this often intrigues the average person, it does offer a number of advantages, not least freedom. Add to that the autonomy, and I think these 2 words sum up what has motivated me for over 20 years. Going off on my own has never scared me - on the contrary, it's a real pleasure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Going abroad is always full of surprises and barriers. Language, of course, and it's not always easy to ask for directions, order a meal, book a hotel room or take the train. But once again this year, I'll be proving that, with a little perseverance, you can always understand each other. Sometimes there are a few surprises in store, especially when it comes to deciphering a restaurant menu, but that's all part of the journey. The trickiest part of preparing for Chauny-Venice was undoubtedly how I was going to get back to Chauny from Venice. Was flying the right solution?<\/p>\n<\/div>

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Yes, without a doubt, at least the fastest, but at what price. A one-way trip from Venice to Paris is bordering on prohibition. So I'm opting for the train. It's pretty hard to get reliable information, some people say that you can get back from Venice with your bike without any problems, while others tell me that you can't get back from Venice with a bike. It's too bad to cancel a trip because of the return journey!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The information I got from friends in the 100 passes club reassured me a little, but you have to travel with your bike disassembled in a bag. In short, it's identical to the return from Trieste in 2000.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In fact, there is a direct train between Venice and Paris, with no changes (great). Departure from Mestres at 7pm, arrival in Paris at 9am the next day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On such a return journey, what you need is a good dose of patience, because waiting 3 hours in Mestre, 3 hours in Paris is a long time, but the Alpine adventure is at that price, unless you opt for a return journey by bike, but then!<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The start<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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It's 6.45am when I pose for the photo in front of the house. My wife hides her emotion, and so do I. There's always something cruel about leaving, it's like being torn apart. You have to leave quickly, and put your heart and soul into the journey...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Leaving your family for 15 days is no mean feat, 20 years in the business and still that twinge in my heart, that little voice inside me that seems to be saying:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

-Don't go, stay at home...\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But the taste for adventure is too strong, and it would take a catastrophe to make me give up the idea of leaving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And off I went!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Newly equipped with a digital camera, I'm determined to take some pictures. No sooner had I left Chauny than the photo was already delaying me. I like 'start\/finish' style photos with the town sign prominently displayed, so why deprive myself? My camera has a capacity of 800 photos, so I've got plenty of room - in fact, I'll still take a whopping 300.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chauny Mailly-le-Camp 162 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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L\u2019itin\u00e9raire aujourd\u2019hui est assez familier jusque F\u00e8re-en-Tardenois. Puis ensuite j\u2019aborde la vall\u00e9e de la Marne et ses belles bosses. En fait  l\u2019\u00e9tape longue de 162 km sera assez vallonn\u00e9e. J\u2019arrive \u00e0 l\u2019h\u00f4tel St-Eloi \u00e0 Mailly-le-Camp \u00e0 16 heures 45\u2019. Un rapide tour de la ville (sans grand int\u00e9r\u00eat) puis repos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I've booked the first 3 nights in a hotel. Then in Italy, I'll see where I am. Apparently there's no problem finding accommodation in Italy, which will prove to be true.<\/p>\n<\/div>

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Mailly-le-Camp Moloy : 177 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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I start this stage at 7.30am.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The route now crosses the Aube department. 2 BPF controls will be added to my collection. (Brienne-le-Ch\u00e2teau and Clairvaux).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/a>It's going to be a tough stage, with scorching heat today, and the rare 'bistros' are a welcome sight, so the long, endless straights are wearing on my strength a little, and I can't wait to get it over with.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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A 18 heures, j\u2019arrive \u00e0 l\u2019h\u00f4tel r\u00e9serv\u00e9. Par malchance il n\u2019est pas encore ouvert. D\u00e9ception, je r\u00eavais d\u00e9j\u00e0 d\u2019une bonne douche. Je fais le tour du village, et d\u00e9couvre au bout d\u2019une petite ruelle, un v\u00e9ritable oasis. Une chambre d\u2019h\u00f4te am\u00e9nag\u00e9e dans une maison typique. La propri\u00e9taire un peu surprise de me voir, accepte de me loger et apr\u00e8s quelques h\u00e9sitations, accepte de me faire le repas plus le petit d\u00e9jeuner, que demander de plus ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What a treat this omelette with chips and salad is, it cheers me up a bit. I fall asleep. At 9.30 p.m. there's no more cyclo, he's already asleep and to top it all off my bike is safe in the house!<\/p>\n<\/div>

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<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Moloy Saint-Laurent-en-Grandvaux : 171 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

It was an easy start to the stage as far as Dijon, but it was a tough ride through this big city. I was kindly guided by a young cyclist, and after 1 hour of agony I finally got out of the prefecture of the C\u00f4te d'Or.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

J\u2019arrive \u00e0 St-Jean-de-Losne \u00e0 midi. Je n\u2019ai fait que 62 km. La chaleur est de nouveau accablante, lourde, \u00e7a sent l\u2019orage ? Je me restaure rapidement et reprends la route sans grand enthousiasme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I treat myself to a nice little snack in a tea room in Arbois. The pastry chef asked me about my trip. When I told her I was going to Venice, she said mischievously:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

-\" I hope you meet a beautiful Venetian woman\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I reply immediately:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

-\" Do you think my wife will be happy?\"<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La dame, confuse, s\u2019excuse, elle pensait na\u00efvement qu\u2019un Randonneur partant 14 jours sur un v\u00e9lo ne pouvait \u00eatre que c\u00e9libataire ! Et bien non !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Apr\u00e8s m\u2019\u00eatre sustent\u00e9 g\u00e9n\u00e9reusement, je suis pr\u00eat \u00e0 affronter la mont\u00e9e vers Champagnole. L\u00e0, je rencontre un confr\u00e8re Diagonaliste. Me voyant \u00e0 l\u2019arr\u00eat pour soulager un petit besoin naturel, notre homme n\u2019h\u00e9site pas \u00e0 faire \u00bd tour et vient bavarder quelques instants avec moi, sympa non ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The terrain is quite marked now, which is normal as we're in the Jura, and tomorrow we'll be seeing the first passes, or so I was going to say!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It's 6.20pm when I enter the Hotel de la Poste, a lovely, friendly hotel. The weather is turning sour, and I'm afraid it's going to rain tomorrow!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Saint-Laurent-en-Grandvaux Saint-Gingolf : 95 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This morning I got confirmation from the weather forecast: it's raining!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/a>I climbed the Col de la Savine in the pouring rain and arrived in Les Rousses completely soaked.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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J\u2019ai beaucoup de souvenirs ici. Aussi je m\u2019empresse d\u2019acheter une carte postale pour immortaliser ce passage. En effet, plusieurs ann\u00e9es de suite, je venais avec la petite famille m\u2019adonner aux joies du ski de fond !
After Les Rousses, it's the ascent of the Col de la Givrine and the crossing into Switzerland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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J’ai opt\u00e9 pour la travers\u00e9e du lac L\u00e9man entre Nyon et Yvoire, ceci m\u2019\u00e9vite un grand d\u00e9tour, et puis avouons le, la travers\u00e9e du lac en bateau ne me d\u00e9plait pas. Elle f\u00fbt tr\u00e8s rapide. Ensuite reprise de la route jusqu’\u00e0 Thonon par l\u2019horrible N5 toujours aussi dangereuse. J\u2019ai h\u00e2te d\u2019en finir. Arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 \u00c9vian, la faim me tiraille un peu. Je m\u2019offre ma premi\u00e8re pizza. Puis je repars en longeant le tr\u00e8s beau lac L\u00e9man. J\u2019arrive \u00e0 St-Gingolf \u00e0 15 h 30\u2019, il est encore t\u00f4t. Deux solutions, ou bien je continue, ce qui m\u2019oblige \u00e0 dormir en Suisse, avec les d\u00e9sagr\u00e9ments \u00e0 pr\u00e9voir d\u2019une addition sal\u00e9e, ou bien je m\u2019arr\u00eate \u00e0 St-Gingolf c\u00f4t\u00e9 Fran\u00e7ais. Le temps est mena\u00e7ant, une \u00e9tape plus courte me sera peut-\u00eatre b\u00e9n\u00e9fique, et puis apr\u00e8s tout j\u2019ai d\u00e9j\u00e0 gagn\u00e9 30 km par rapport \u00e0 mon plan de marche, qui pr\u00e9voyait un arr\u00eat \u00e0 Thonon.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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St Gingolf has the unusual distinction of being both French and Swiss, which is really strange!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My room at the Hotel National offers a magnificent view of the lake. It's a shame that the grey weather spoils the picture a bit. It's pouring down, so once again I've done well to behave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The weather will be fine tomorrow!<\/p>\n<\/div>

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<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Saint-Gingolf Saint-Oyen : 118 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Today is the official departure from Thonon to Venice, and from now on I'll be leaving France for 10 days.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There's been little or no rain, but the heat isn't back yet. I had to endure a small hailstorm on the ascent of the Grand-St-Bernard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today's stage has two difficulties, including the ascent of Champex, a pass not officially recognised by the 100 cols club, but a difficult one nonetheless. It's a good warm-up. I stop for refreshments at the top in a superb Swiss inn.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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J\u2019avais pr\u00e9vu de faire \u00e9tape \u00e0 Bourg-St-Pierre, mais vu l\u2019heure je poursuis ma route, et attaque le col du Grand-St-Bernard (le plus haut de ce voyage 2469 m ). L\u2019ascension est facile dans sa premi\u00e8re partie, puis \u00e0 quelques km du sommet, il faut choisir, ou prendre le tunnel, ou continuer sur la petite route Pas d\u2019h\u00e9sitation possible, je m\u2019engage sur la belle mais rude petite route qui me m\u00e8nera au sommet du Grand-St-Bernard. D\u2019ailleurs, je crois bien que le tunnel est interdit aux v\u00e9los.<\/p>\n<\/div>

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We cross the border into Italy on the descent, and look for a hotel for the stage. We ended up in St Oyen, a charming mountain village and a lovely hotel. I was given a very nice room, all in solid pine. The price was a modest \u20ac34, including breakfast.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That evening, the atmosphere in the hotel was great. I met two Austrian cyclists who had set off from Antibes and were making their way back to their home country. Add an English tourist (not a cyclist), and we have a very cosmopolitan table, but it's hard to understand each other at times!<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Saint-Oyen Biella : 147 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Je quitte mes deux compagnons autrichiens apr\u00e8s le petit d\u00e9jeuner. Il est 7 h 50,  j\u2019attaque aujourd\u2019hui ma 6th<\/sup> \u00e9tape. J\u2019ai d\u00e9j\u00e0 parcouru 731 km depuis Chauny. J\u2019ai la forme, et quelque chose me dit qu\u2019\u00e0 partir de maintenant il va faire beau, il va faire chaud. Preuve en est dans cette \u00e9tape. La travers\u00e9e de la vall\u00e9e d\u2019Aoste est \u00e9touffante, j\u2019ai repens\u00e9 souvent \u00e0 cette \u00e9tape cet \u00e9t\u00e9, qu\u2019il a d\u00fb faire chaud ! Cela devait \u00eatre bien p\u00e9nible au mois d\u2019ao\u00fbt avec cette canicule.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aosta is easy to cross, then a long flat stretch to St-Vincent.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Le col di Joux aux pourcentages irr\u00e9guliers tout au long de ces 15 km perturbe un peu cette relative tranquillit\u00e9. J\u2019ai droit \u00e0 une superbe descente sur Verres o\u00f9 j\u2019admire son ch\u00e2teau.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je conforte encore aujourd\u2019hui mon avance, et c\u2019est \u00e0 Biella que je pose mes sacoches. Biella est une grande ville. Aussi la recherche d\u2019un h\u00f4tel bon march\u00e9 est fastidieuse ! Je paierai la chambre 47 \u20acuros.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

J\u2019aime bien le soir \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9tape fl\u00e2ner dans la ville et savourer une bonne bi\u00e8re ! La r\u00e9compense apr\u00e8s une dure journ\u00e9e de labeur !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ce soir le petit bistrot ou je m\u2019arr\u00eate, \u00e0 l\u2019air tr\u00e8s sympa. Il s\u2019y d\u00e9gage une bonne ambiance. D\u2019embl\u00e9e le patron m\u2019offre une assiette de toasts avec jambon d\u2019Aoste plus beurre. Combien de bistrots feraient ce geste dans notre pays ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As you will see from these pages, the Italians really are a friendly, welcoming people. I can say loud and clear that we have a lot to learn from our transalpine neighbours when it comes to the hotel business. With them, there are so many little details that turn your ordinary stay into a pleasant one.<\/p>\n<\/div>

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The atmosphere in the caf\u00e9 is friendly, and the customers (all male) try to get to know me a little better. I tell them that I travel by bike, and of course they admire me. I've already read this elsewhere, but I can confirm it: the bicycle is one hell of a communication tool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le repas du soir, sera pris dans un restaurant, \u00e9galement particulier. La salle est immense, tr\u00e8s haute de plafond. \u00c0 mon arriv\u00e9e nous ne sommes que quatre clients. L\u2019ambiance il faut l\u2019avouer est froide, chacun se regarde un peu en chien de fa\u00efence, c\u2019est bizarre, cela ressemble plus \u00e0 une vaste cantine, qu\u2019\u00e0 un restaurant. Ici pas d\u2019intimit\u00e9, je quitterai ce lieu assez vite !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Biella Reno : 136 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The 7th<\/sup> This leg of my journey between Chauny and Venice will be superb. On the one hand, the weather is fine, not very hot (I'll even get a little shower) but fine nonetheless.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/a> <\/a>The start of the stage, on a very aerial, very panoramic road, here you want to photograph everything, it's beautiful. The villages seem to be clinging to the mountains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So caught up in the atmosphere, I lost my way a little and climbed up to the village of Piedicavallo: the end of the world!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the end of this village, there are no more roads, and it's very picturesque. I find it hard to leave, I'm fine here, but the stage has only just begun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La mont\u00e9e vers Bielmonte est un plaisir. Belle route, tranquille, pas de circulation. C\u2019est incroyable, les routes les moins fr\u00e9quent\u00e9es sont d\u2019une qualit\u00e9 irr\u00e9prochable, l\u2019asphalte semble fra\u00eechement pos\u00e9, aucun trou, du billard, on aime et on en redemande nous les cyclos ! Encore une grande qualit\u00e9 de cette r\u00e9gion, la r\u00e9seau routier est superbe, surtout sur les routes les moins fr\u00e9quent\u00e9es. Allez savoir pourquoi ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Checkpoint at Bielmonte and souvenir photo taken by a group of mountain bikers (nobody's perfect!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then there's a succession of small passes known here as Bocchetto, with magnificent if not magical names: Bocchetto di Livrea; Bocchetto di Rubello; Bocchetta di Puntiggio. Add to that the fact that all this is downhill, and you've got to admit that the road to Venice is an easy one!<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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After Coggiola, the road continues downhill until it finally reaches Lake Maggiore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tonight I'll be putting my bike down in Reno, trusting the organiser, who has a list of hotels attached to the route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I chose the \"Alberga riva\", a charming hotel on the shores of Lake Maggiore. From the balcony of my room, I can admire the boats on the lake. It's so beautiful and relaxing, and here life seems to have come to a standstill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once again I'd like to thank \"the good fairy\" who introduced me to this wonderful hobby of cycling. What a pleasure it is to travel by bike! Anyone who doesn't travel by bike doesn't know what happiness is, that's blunt but I mean it sincerely.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We don't serve meals here. Never mind, just walk 100 metres and I discover a restaurant, and what's more, we eat outside on the terrace and under an arbour covered in greenery... on the menu: homemade lasagne, what a treat!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tonight I'm at the halfway point and in a week's time, if all goes well, I'll be in Venice!<\/p>\n<\/div>

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Reno Torno : 112 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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If I keep saying that this is a great stage, or even the greatest, I'm afraid the reader will get bored. However, once again I have to say it, and I must even add that the 8th<\/sup> stage will be the most beautiful!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aujourd\u2019hui il fait tr\u00e8s chaud, \u00e7a commence fort, je fais une erreur de parcours de 6 km. C\u2019est pas grave ! J\u2019ai la forme et le d\u00e9cor de r\u00eave d\u00e9cuple mes forces. La mont\u00e9e vers Sella dell Casere est longue et p\u00e9nible, mais l\u00e0 haut quelle r\u00e9compense. D\u00e9cor de r\u00eave, d\u00e9cor de carte postale, imaginez :<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With the forest in the foreground, the lake in the centre, the mountains in the background, the snow-capped peaks, the intense blue sky and the sun shining, Capanna Gigliola is the most beautiful checkpoint in the Thonon Venice Pre-Alps. This is a completely personal opinion, which may not be shared by everyone, but according to a friend from the Club des Cent Cols who lives just a stone's throw from the site, I was extraordinarily lucky:<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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 -\" Did you know that you are incredibly lucky to be able to see, appreciate and photograph Lake Maggiore and its mountains from the Gigliola refuge, there are on average only five fog-free days in the whole summer in this region. As a good regional climber, I pass through here several times a year and sometimes I can barely make out the mountains opposite! \"(Jules DEJACE)<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Capana Gigliola is a magical place, and I find it hard to leave. I absolutely want to record my great time here on film, and once again I swear that I'll be back with my wife, and why not on a bike?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The climb up the Passo di Cuvignone is difficult, it's hot and the gradient is severe, and then the plunge (I can't find another word for it as the gradient is so vertiginous) into Mesensava. I pass through some beautiful and picturesque villages and arrive in Switzerland for a brief stopover. I leave Chiasso (so many memories here, I passed through there 25 years ago with 3 friends, we were going to Corfu, I wasn't on a bike but I was travelling by train at the time!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here I am, back in Italy (I'll never leave it again). Como, a big city, is synonymous with a laborious crossing. Fortunately, two cyclists I met at a crossroads agreed to guide me and put me back on the right track.<\/p>\n<\/div>

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The stage ends in Torno, a sad hotel (the ugliest of the trip) and what's more, the restaurant is full! But despite everything, I had an excellent meal in a panoramic restaurant overlooking Lake Como.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I'm worried, though, as my bike is stored in a garage 200 metres from the hotel. Tomorrow morning I leave early, as the restaurant will still be closed. It's agreed that the waitress will return my bike at 1am, when the restaurant closes? When in doubt, I set my alarm clock to go off in the middle of the night to see if my rossinante was waiting for me. And yes, the hotelier is serious, the bike is there and it's ready to go back with me!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ah, love is beautiful...<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Torno Saint-Pellegrino : 125 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

La mont\u00e9e vers Piano del Tivano est longue est difficile. Je croise beaucoup de cyclistes. C\u2019est dimanche et \u00e7a roule par ici. Au col, malgr\u00e9 l\u2019heure matinale (9 h 30) il y a foule. Les gens viennent passer la journ\u00e9e. Il fait beau et l\u2019endroit est agr\u00e9able. Apr\u00e8s une descente dangereuse je fais route vers Lecco. \u00c9norm\u00e9ment de circulation et passage de longs tunnels.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je quitte l\u2019h\u00f4tel \u00e0 7 h 15\u2019 sans le petit d\u00e9jeuner comme pr\u00e9vu. Apr\u00e8s quelques kilom\u00e8tres, je m\u2019arr\u00eate dans un bistrot ou je peux enfin savourer caf\u00e9 et viennoiseries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>
\n

Leaving Lecco, we tackle the climb to Sella di Balabio. Endless queues of cars overtake me, and it's very dangerous, not to mention steep and very hot. Hard! Hard!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I stop for lunch and a breather. After my break, the long-awaited lull in traffic begins to make itself felt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This time I'm leaving the lake region and heading for the high mountains. The rest of the day goes smoothly, but still with a constant stream of cars and motorbikes. The stopover in St-Pellegrino is a welcome one, the beautiful spa town world-famous for its good 'freezing' water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tonight I'm staying in a hotel, or rather a pension for the elderly. My neighbour at the table knows France well. He tells me all about the towns he's visited, and helps me choose my meal. Nice old chap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nevertheless, the meal was rather mediocre, and the breakfast not great either. I'm afraid I'll have to pay for it for the rest of my trip.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

San-Pellegrino Bienno : 111 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Today's stage will be scorching in every way. Suffocating heat from 11 in the morning, and difficult passes, such as the Passo della Pessalona. A highlight of the trip. Fortunately, the scenery is breathtakingly beautiful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

Arriving in Bienno, the chosen location for the stage, I looked in vain for the coveted hotel. In fact, it's just outside the town, several kilometres away. It's a steep climb to get to this hotel (the first hairpin bends of the Croce Domini, perhaps?) with its evocative name: Oasi Verde (the green oasis). I don't regret the extra few kilometres, though, because it's a magical place, and what's more, the owner and waiter speak French here, and most of the guests this evening are French.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tr\u00e8s belle \u00e9tape, dans une excellente ambiance, je la recommande. Le patron vient discuter avec moi \u00e0 la fin du repas, il pratique le v\u00e9lo, et m\u2019annonce les joies qui m\u2019attendent demain avec l\u2019ascension du Croce Domini, 15 km de mont\u00e9e pour atteindre la c\u00f4te 1892 m.<\/p>\n<\/div>

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bienno Ponte-Arche : 119 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

J\u2019attaque le col \u00e0 7 h 30. Le patron de l\u2019h\u00f4tel, est d\u00e9j\u00e0 dans son super jardin, il m\u2019encourage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>
\n

D\u00e8s la sortie du village on attaque s\u00e9v\u00e8re. Les pourcentages irr\u00e9guliers ajoutent de la difficult\u00e9 dans cette mont\u00e9e du Crocce Domini. Le final dans les alpages est magnifique. J\u2019atteinds le col \u00e0 10 h 45. La route vers Riva Garda, n\u2019est qu\u2019une succession de faux plats et de grimp\u00e9es de petits cols, comme le Passo de l\u2019Ampola.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Avant l\u2019entr\u00e9e dans Riva Garda, situ\u00e9e au pied du lac de Garde, travers\u00e9e de 2 tr\u00e8s long tunnels (3,6 km et 1,2 km) mais relative tranquillit\u00e9 c\u00f4t\u00e9 circulation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It's very hot here. I can't resist the pleasure of a nice ice cream.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I climbed to Tenno in the heatwave and stopped off at Ponte Arche. This evening I entered the Dolomites, another highlight of this trip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With 3 stages left to reach Venice, I'm still in good shape and my spirits are high.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My bike spends the night next to the stoves in the restaurant kitchen!<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ponte-Arche Noval-Levante : 125 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n

La premi\u00e8re \u00e9tape dans les Dolomites se fera encore sous le signe de la chaleur. Succession de petits cols, et passage sur une route toute plate pendant 18 km. C\u2019est rare il faut le souligner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The final climb of the day is the Passo di Lavaze, with its impressive percentage (18%, as the sign indicates). I'm pleased to have climbed it entirely by bike, but at a much slower pace. At the pass, I had a well-deserved snack break, checked my logbook and filled my water bottles.<\/p>\n<\/div>

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>
\n

I had a moment of panic when I got to the bottom of the pass and realised I'd forgotten a water bottle on the caf\u00e9 table. Too bad, but there's no way I'm going back up that pass. I must have been over the moon, still in shock from that great climb!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I arrive in Nova-Levante, a charming mountain village typical of the Italian Tyrol. The hotels and buildings are all decorated with beautiful, colourful flower boxes on their balconies. The unobstructed view of the Dolomites gives me some great shots.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nova-Levante Agordo : 127 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Today is the big, beautiful stage in the Dolomites. The kind of stage you dream about when you're planning your trip. I won't be disappointed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>
\n

The weather is splendid. The intense blue sky promises some great photos. I'm in great shape. Another great day ahead.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After a pleasant climb out of Nova-Levante, you arrive at Lake Carreza (after Capanna Gigliola, the most beautiful viewpoint on this tour).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vraiment particulier les Dolomites : de la dentelle, voil\u00e0 le mot, c\u2019est de la dentelle, pas une montagne ne ressemble \u00e0 cela, vraiment tr\u00e8s beau, et le tout sur un fond de ciel bleu azur. Magique ! F\u00e9erique ! J\u2019en prends plein les yeux. Je regrette d\u2019\u00eatre oblig\u00e9 de partir si vite. Je voudrais rester des heures \u00e0 contempler cette merveille de la nature mais la route jusque Agordo et deux cols \u00e0 plus de 2000 m\u00e8tres m\u2019attendent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Passo di Valles is the first 2000 of the day. It's pretty tough, but the view is so spectacular that you sometimes forget the slope (liar!!!).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je m\u2019offre un excellent repas au col, tout en contemplant le paysage : une assiette de p\u00e2tes Bolonaises \u00e7a vous ragaillardit un homme !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Apr\u00e8s une descente vertigineuse, des pourcentages \u00e0 faire peur ! Quand je pense que ma vie tient sur les 2 c\u00e2bles de frein, il faut avoir confiance en sa machine, et cette ann\u00e9e encore ma randonneuse* ne me fera pas d\u00e9faut, aucun incident, aucune crevaison, rien, du billard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

*PUB: (I ride a \"RANDO CYCLE\" with \"SCHWALBE\" tyres).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This afternoon I have a compulsory check at the Passo di Costazza, and there's a nice surprise in store.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I was also surprised that our friend Georges Rossini didn't have a little surprise in store for us, as he does on every one of his tours, and here it is.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To reach the pass and the \"Baita Segantini\" refuge, you have to take an unpaved road, a rocky path that climbs and climbs...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

Je suis un peu \u00e9nerv\u00e9, j\u2019ai horreur des chemins muletiers lorsque je suis avec ma randonneuse et mes sacoches. La peur de tomber, de crever est omnipr\u00e9sente. Je me renseigne pour savoir o\u00f9 se trouve le refuge. L\u00e0-haut m\u2019indique ces randonneurs p\u00e9destres. Il faut encore monter. Ils \u00e9taient franchement surpris de voir un cyclo arriver l\u00e0 ! Les kilom\u00e8tres me paraissent interminables. Je ferai les \u00be \u00e0 pieds en poussant ma Rossinante. Plus d\u2019une heure pour atteindre le col et son refuge, situ\u00e9 au pied de la montagne, au c\u0153ur des Dolomites. C\u2019est beau il faut l\u2019avouer mais \u00ab gal\u00e8re \u00bb pour y arriver. La descente est encore plus laborieuse. C\u2019est non sans joie que je remets mes roues sur l\u2019asphalte. Ah ! sacr\u00e9 Georges ! Tu n\u2019as pas ton pareil pour aller d\u00e9nicher ces belles routes de montagne.<\/p>\n<\/div>

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>
\n

Longue descente pour me r\u00e9compenser de mes efforts jusque Fiera-di-Primeirio o\u00f9 je d\u00e9cide de continuer sur Agordo. J\u2019avais ignor\u00e9 le Passo di Cereda et ses 15 %. Il me restera au travers de la gorge. Ah ! quelle journ\u00e9e. En plus j\u2019ai des difficult\u00e9s \u00e0 trouver un h\u00f4tel. Je loge ce soir dans un \u00ab bed and breakfast \u00bb. Tr\u00e8s grande maison, mes h\u00f4tes sont d\u2019une extr\u00eame gentillesse. Au retour du d\u00eener, ils m\u2019offrent le caf\u00e9 et le petit verre de \u00ab gnole \u00bb. \u00c0 ce r\u00e9gime l\u00e0, je vais atteindre Venise rapidement.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Une fois n\u2019est pas coutume, et puis ce soir c\u2019est la veille du grand jour, c\u2019est la veille de l\u2019arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Venizia !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Agordo Venise : 145 km<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Le confort in\u00e9galable de ce \u00ab bed and breakfast \u00bb se ressent encore ce matin. La salle pour le petit d\u00e9jeuner est de toute beaut\u00e9, tout en lambris. Rien ne manque. Je me restaure copieusement et quitte cette charmante demeure l\u2019estomac bien rempli pr\u00eat \u00e0 affronter les 150 derniers kilom\u00e8tres de ce voyage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The big difficulties are now behind me. The Passo St-Boldo becomes a mere formality. But the descent is spectacular. Imagine a road with very tight twists and turns, all in a tunnel. The architect who designed this road was clever enough to make it a one-way road with alternating traffic, and to make an open section after each bend. Surprising, and I think quite rare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La route jusqu’\u00e0 Tr\u00e9vise est \u00e0 forte circulation. Il faut redoubler de vigilance. Je contourne Tr\u00e9vise et admire les riches maisons. A 15 h 30 je suis arriv\u00e9 \u00e0 Mestre, l\u2019antichambre de Venise. Mestre est une grande ville. Je m\u2019approche de la gare \u00e0 la recherche d\u2019un h\u00f4tel pour la nuit. Les tarifs sont ici prohibitifs. Mon choix se porte sur l\u2019h\u00f4tel Giovanina. Il pr\u00e9sente le triple avantage d\u2019\u00eatre situ\u00e9 \u00e0 300 m\u00e8tres de la gare, de ne pas \u00eatre trop cher, et d\u2019avoir une cour et un abri d\u2019o\u00f9 je pourrai d\u00e9monter demain tranquillement mon v\u00e9lo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Une bonne douche, tee-shirt propre, randonneuse soulag\u00e9e de ses lourdes sacoches et me voici parti pour l\u2019ultime tron\u00e7on qui va me conduire par la fameuse route N11 qui enjambe la lagune jusqu’\u00e0 Venise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>
\n

I was a bit apprehensive about this crossing, which many people say is very dangerous because of the traffic. In fact, there's a sort of cycle path that runs alongside the road and takes you completely out of harm's way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Suddenly I saw the first houses of Venice in the distance, followed by the \"VENIZIA\" sign. At that moment, I felt great emotion, joy and happiness. Everything was racing through my mind. I'd arrived in Venice on my bike!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A couple of Hungarian cyclists taking the same route stopped short of me, and we exchanged a few words about the emotion we were feeling. The souvenir photo in front of the sign will immortalise this delicious moment forever.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n

This time it's over, I've reached the end of my journey, what happiness. Arriving in the city, I hurried to buy the first postcards and drink a good beer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the evening, I'll have dinner on the banks of the Grand Canal, with the gondolas in the background:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Elle est pas belle la vie !<\/h2>\n<\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The next day I returned to Venice, but this time by train, with my bike safely waiting at the hotel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It's 4pm when I finish dismantling the bike. It's been placed in the large bag specially designed for this purpose and transported from Chauny on the rear luggage rack, along with a few tools.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ensuite je me rends \u00e0 la gare de Mestre. L\u00e0 commence la partie la plus p\u00e9nible du voyage : le retour. Il me faut attendre 3 longues heures sur le quai de la gare, puis 13 heures de train, ensuite le m\u00e9tro jusqu’\u00e0 la gare du Nord. L\u00e0 de nouveau 3 heures d\u2019attente pour enfin monter dans le train qui me ram\u00e8ne \u00e0 Chauny. Il est 14 heures quand je d\u00e9barque sur le quai de la gare, fatigu\u00e9 mais heureux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Duty done, Chauny-Thonon-Venice<\/strong> is over, and at the same time I'm completing the great crossing of the Alps by bike.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CHAUNY 16\/11\/2003<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jean-Marc LEFEVRE<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La fin d’une belle aventure Pr\u00e9ambule Commenc\u00e9e en l\u2019an 2000, la grande travers\u00e9e des Alpes (Alpine et Pr\u00e9alpine) s\u2019est achev\u00e9e le 11 juillet 2003 \u00e0 VENISE, terme de la 4i\u00e8me randonn\u00e9e organis\u00e9e par les Cyclos-Randonneurs-Thononais et orchestr\u00e9 par Georges ROSSINI. Afin de finir en beaut\u00e9, je d\u00e9cidais de partir cette ann\u00e9e de la ville o\u00f9 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":84989,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[82],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-84918","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyages"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nChauny-Thonon-Venise (Jean-Marc Lef\u00e8vre, CC 3331) - Club des Cent Cols<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/centcols.org\/en\/chauny-thonon-venise-jean-marc-lefevre-cc-3331\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Chauny-Thonon-Venise (Jean-Marc Lef\u00e8vre, CC 3331) - Club des Cent Cols\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"La fin d’une belle aventure Pr\u00e9ambule Commenc\u00e9e en l\u2019an 2000, la grande travers\u00e9e des Alpes (Alpine et Pr\u00e9alpine) s\u2019est achev\u00e9e le 11 juillet 2003 \u00e0 VENISE, terme de la 4i\u00e8me randonn\u00e9e organis\u00e9e par les Cyclos-Randonneurs-Thononais et orchestr\u00e9 par Georges ROSSINI. 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