{"id":91155,"date":"2025-11-14T14:03:05","date_gmt":"2025-11-14T12:03:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/centcols.org\/?p=91155"},"modified":"2026-02-12T21:29:31","modified_gmt":"2026-02-12T19:29:31","slug":"thonon-trieste-fred-singla-2025","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/centcols.org\/en\/thonon-trieste-fred-singla-2025\/","title":{"rendered":"Thonon Trieste: Fred Singla cc 5173"},"content":{"rendered":"

After the narrated by Jean-Marc Lef\u00e8vre<\/a> and Philippe Chazottier's<\/a> it's Fred Singla's turn to tell us about his adventure. A magnificent bike ride, designed by Georges Rossini, that links Lake Geneva to the Adriatic, crossing a number of passes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Click on the stage title below the picture to travel with Fred and his two friends. In each episode, all the photos can be clicked for a larger view.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Summary of stages<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Day 1: Thonon-les-Bains to Brig (Switzerland)<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 2: Brig (Switzerland) to Verbania (Italy)<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Day 3: Verbania to Campodolcino<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 4: Campodolcino to Livigno<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 5: Livigno to Malles-Venosta<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 6: Malles-Venosta to Bolzano<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 7: Bolzano to Arabba<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 8: Rest day. Loop around the hotel.<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a><\/a>Day 9: Arabba to Vigo-di-Cadore<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 10: Vigo-di-Cadore to<\/a> <\/a><\/a>Tarcento + LE Zoncolan!<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Day 11: Tarcento to <\/em>Trieste<\/a><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Day 12: Cycling in Slovenia and a visit to Trieste<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The prologue<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Saturday 23 August :<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

That's it, we're in Thonon-les-Bains! After being postponed for several years, the adventure can begin \ud83d\ude0a. In a few days' time, we should be in Trieste after crossing the Alpine arc and tackling the major passes of the Alps. So here we are, Bruno (cc 7753) and I, at the foot of the wall and Jean-Marc at the wheel of the Partner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jean-Marc and I have known each other since university. That's 42 years. We've seen each other's children born. I've lost count of the number of meals we've had together, New Year's Eve parties and other festivities we've shared. Our two couples have already gone on holiday together. As for Bruno, it's more than 25 years since we met and became friends. He has often taken part in the New Year's Eve celebrations and other meals mentioned above. And I've lost count of the number of cycling trips we've shared. In 2013, the two of us accompanied me on a cycling trip to Morocco. And in 2019 for a trip, again by bike, to Colorado. It was after this trip that Bruno joined our great brotherhood. As for me, I've been a member since 2000. And in recent years, I've taken part in many CCC trips. Most of them in the company of Bruno. And some of you may know me from the Rassemblement Pyr\u00e9n\u00e9en Bernardini, which I've been organising for you for some years now.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So I have absolutely no doubts that our little group should work well (and it obviously will!). That's it for the presentation of our team. Let's move on to the equipment.

I'd planned to set off with my gravel bike (which has the right developments and a very comfortable position). A technical problem on one of the chainrings prevented me from taking it. It was impossible to get the part before we set off. As for the Roubaix, its developments would not have enabled me to complete the difficult climbs that were planned.
. So I had to buy a new bike as a matter of urgency. In a hurry? Not really, because I'd already started looking at models a few weeks ago. The Roubaix was starting to wear out after 15 years and nearly 160,000 euros.
km ... (If you want to kill your dog, accuse it of rabies \ud83d\ude09 ).

This 1300-kilometre, 25,000-metre climb will be a good warm-up gallop for this new bike: Orbea Orca M30 for those in the know.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Here's the beast. And I can tell you, in retrospect, that it fulfilled its role very well!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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First<\/strong> Step <\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Day 1: Thonon-les-Bains to Brig (Switzerland)<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

169 km - 1700 m of den+, 1 pass<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A quick glance at Lake Geneva, and we're off to Thonon-les-Bains. We're off on a long journey.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Lake Geneva<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

After 15 km, we hit a road that was closed - and closed it was - because of roadworks. The proposed diversion is very long and we decide to go ahead.
It's a good thing it's Sunday, because the workers would never have let us through...
They clear the cliff that overlooks the road Bruno is on. We cross the obstacle and very quickly ... there's no more road!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After that, we'll be facing no less than two portals. It's in the face of adversity that the saying \"there's strength in numbers\" really comes into its own. Indeed, these obstacles would have been almost impossible for a single person to overcome.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We then passed through Abondance and Ch\u00e2tel. Ch\u00e2tel had the pleasure of hosting the Tour de France for Women a few weeks earlier.
One climb later, we arrive at the Pas de Morgins or Col d'Abondance, which marks the border. We've crossed into Switzerland and are now in the Valais.
The pass is the first on our journey. We stayed there for a while to take in the beautiful view of Ch\u00e2tel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fred<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Bruno and Jean-Marc<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
The fine team at the first pass of the journey<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Then follows a magnificent descent into a wide valley filled with orchards.
A cycle path provides almost constant safety. It passes at the foot of the waterfall, poetically named Pissevaches. 
The Rh\u00f4ne, which is crossed several times, is the colour of melting snow.
Around Sion, orchards give way to magnificent vineyards on steep hillsides.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ch\u00e2tel from the Morgins pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Crossing the Rh\u00f4ne at Riddes (Switzerland)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Sion vineyard.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Sion vineyard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We arrive in Brig after 169 km, D 1700 and a pass.

Brig, where there are no longer streets but stra\u00dfe. In fact, we slipped several kilometres from the French-speaking part to the German-speaking part.
The same advertisements we saw in French in Monthey, Martigny or Sion are now in German. So are surnames, village names and company names. And people no longer speak French...<\/p>\n\n\n

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Tomorrow sees the start of the major cols.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Prologue<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
Next step<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Day 2: from Brig (Switzerland)<\/em> in Verbania (Italy)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

100 km - 1500 m of den+, 1 pass >2000<\/p>\n\n\n

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Beautiful barn on stilts in Ried-Brig<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

No warm-up when we leave the hotel. And with good reason: it's at the foot of the pass! We hit the ground running.
We start with 7 km without traffic on the old road through Ried. The climb offers a great view of the road we'll be taking next. It's on stilts and seems to be clinging to the mountain. <\/p>\n\n\n

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On the way up, a view of Brig, which is rapidly disappearing into the distance.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

At km 7, we rejoin the main road. Despite the Simplon tunnel, there's still a lot of traffic, but it's still OK for another 5 or 6 km. Then we come to the many long paravalanches, where the traffic has increased because of the time of day, and the noise is infernal!
It's a long drive, but we've had time to enjoy the pretty hamlets and surrounding peaks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Finally, the Simplonpass is reached, along with its 9m-high eagle. Built after the Second World War, it symbolises the courage of the \"Freedom Brigades\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Simplon Pass Hospice<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The descent includes as many paravalanches as the ascent, and even more as it is longer. Still some beautiful villages, just before crossing back into Italy.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Simplon Dorf (Switzerland)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

In Domodossola, we meet Jean-Marc in front of the beautiful station. We stop for lunch in a friendly trattoria. We then had around forty km to go, mostly straight lines and with a fairly strong and obviously unfavourable wind.
After crossing the Toce, we follow it for a long time. All this leads us to the edge of Lago Maggiore, where our hotel is located.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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le Toce<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Verbania, on the shores of Lago Maggiore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After settling in, we take a short stroll along the lakeshore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A walk that takes us to a terrace where a good beer is much appreciated after 100 km, 1500 ascent and a beautiful pass at 2000 Swiss.<\/p>\n\n\n

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The sun is setting over Lake Maggiore and I'm going to bed too, as we have a VERY tough day ahead of us tomorrow. Perhaps the hardest of the trip...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Previous stage<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
Next step<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Day 3: from <\/em>Verbania to Campodolcino<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

167 km - 3000 m of den+, 3 passes<\/p>\n\n\n

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Sunrise over Lago Maggiore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Breakfast is served too late for us, who want to leave early in anticipation of the hard day ahead.
Bruno and I have a bite to eat (sausage, cheese and fruit) in the hotel car park. This allows us to enjoy a splendid sunrise over Lake Maggiore.<\/p>\n\n\n

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We take off at 06:45 and are soon in sight of the pretty village of Cannobio. We follow the lake for 50 km. The road is narrow and, despite the time of day, traffic is heavy.
The first 35 km are in Italy, with superb villas dating from the 1920s. The last 15 km are in Switzerland, with homes that are also of a high standard, but more recent. Some even have huge outdoor lifts...<\/p>\n\n\n

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Cannobio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

After 80 km on the flat, we're in the heart of the mountains. The first hairpin bends of the Passo di san Bernardino appear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Foot of the San Bernardino pass.
I knew that Swiss reservists keep their weapons at home, but a fighter plane ????...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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No time to stop at the caff\u00e9...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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First laces of the San Bernardino<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Climbing San Berdardino, a quick return trip to Forcola (CH-1598)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


20 km later, we \"only\" reached the village of San Bernardino, home to a beautiful basilica.<\/p>\n\n\n

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In San Bernardino, Chiesa Rotonda (1867 \/ 1897).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

The last few hairpin bends are long, more than 10 km longer, and daunting. The Passo di San Bernardino is a big one: more than 30 km and more than 1,500 m of ascent. A rocky bar overlooks Lake Moesola at the pass where our small team is meeting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Final laces of the Passo di San Bernardino<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Close to the summit<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Lake Moesola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The long descent begins with a series of switchbacks and we plunge down to Spl\u00fcgen almost 1000 m below. This 1000 m descent has to be made up again immediately, via some very tight switchbacks where Jean Marc has not had any fun with the Partner.
The Spl\u00fcgenpass is a magnificent climb, but extremely difficult. A \"little\" Stelvio? We'll see about that the day after tomorrow...<\/p>\n\n\n

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Sl\u00fcgenpass or passo dello Spluga laces<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Descent of the San Bernardino<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Spl\u00fcgen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


We then descend to Spluga in Italy, the pass marking the border. Not without going through a \"pile\" of tunnels, at least 10 of them, and 33 bends that are difficult to negotiate because 2 cars can't pass each other!<\/p>\n\n\n

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Magnificent road with spiral tunnels<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

We arrive in Campodolcino and are greeted with a fruit juice. A well-deserved welcome after 167 km, more than 3,000 m of ascent and two major Swiss passes (plus a \"little\" one on the way).
A VERY big release!!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Previous stage<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
Next step<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Day 4: d<\/em>e Campodolcino in Livigno<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

106 km - 2455 m of den+, 3 passes including 2 > 2000<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was raining this morning when we had breakfast. But by the time we set off, the rain has stopped and will be absent all day.
On a wet road, the 10 km descent is approached carefully.<\/p>\n\n\n

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After a beautiful descent from Campodolcino, we reach Borgonuovo and the cascate dell'Acquafraggia.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

800 m downhill later, we're in Chiavenna. There's a vending machine where we can buy milk, yoghurt and cheese. But we don't need them, having had a great breakfast at the hotel...<\/p>\n\n\n

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La Mera at Promontogno, we're in Switzerland again<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

We soon left Italy and crossed back into Switzerland. We come across a few cows. What would Switzerland be without its cows! And yet we saw very few of them. In fact, there are a lot more ... crazy bikers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We quickly attacked the magnificent Passo de Maloja, which I automatically put in my top 10. It's so beautiful!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Going up the passo del Majola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Climbing the Passo del Majola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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At the end of the climb, we reach a superb high plateau. It begins with a huge lake and ends 16 km further on in Saint Moritz. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We are in the Engandine valley between the Maloja and Bernina passes. In Saint Moritz is the Grand H\u00f4tel des Bains ... where I have not booked.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Lago di Sils in the Engandine valley, between the passi del Maloja and del Bernina.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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In Sankt Moritz, Grand H\u00f4tel des Bains ... where I hadn't booked!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Then comes the ascent of the Passo del Bernina, the highest pass in the Swiss Alps, open all year round. Here we pass the Bernina Express, which links Chur (Graub\u00fcnden) to Tirano (Lombardy) via 195 bridges and 55 tunnels. It's surprising to see a train at this altitude that isn't rack-and-pinion. Maximum gradient of 7%, otherwise it won't go through! Railway standard obligatory.
Before reaching the pass, we pass a beautiful lake. And we're lucky enough to come across the Bernina Express.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Climb the Passo del Bernina, the highest pass in the Swiss Alps, open all year round.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The Bernina Express (which links Croire, Graub\u00fcnden, to Tirano, Lombardy, via 195 bridges and 55 tunnels) runs alongside the Lej Nair (Black Lake).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Ready for the Bernina descent<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On the way down the Bernina, a few more cows. Some have square bells, others round.<\/p>\n\n\n

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We still have to climb back up to Forcala di Livigno, at 2313 m, in 3 km at an average speed of 9%. We pass a lot of fuel tankers. We'll understand why when we learn that Livigno is a free zone. And that's where we'll be filling up with diesel at \u20ac1.15 a litre. Compared with \u20ac1.60 everywhere else in Italy.
At the end of a long descent, we arrive in Livigno, where there must be strict town planning regulations. Most of the flowers on the balconies are identical in colour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Descent to Livigno<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Livignio is therefore a free zone, thanks to its isolation. So there's very little tax ... and lots of tourists.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We're enjoying the comfort of our g\u00eete after 106 km, 2455 m of ascent and 3 magnificent passes, including 2 \"2000\".<\/p>\n\n\n

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Our g\u00eete in Livigno<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Previous stage<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
Next step<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Day 5: from <\/em>Livigno to Malles-Venosta: The Stelvio: DANTESQUE but WAHOU!<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

95 km - 2200 m of den+ and \ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Thursday 28, like every other day, up at the crack of dawn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Like every day, a solid breakfast, and this is just a sample ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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We leave Livigno in the rain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

How do you climb the Stelvio without a car (or a bike...)? It's very simple, just follow points 1 to 6 :<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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  1. Leave Livigno and start the day's stage by climbing the Passo d'Eira.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Then descend into a small valley to pass Trepalle (beautiful fresco) between the passi d'Eira and di Foscagno.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Climb back up to the Passo di Foscagno before embarking on an anthology descent to Bormio in pouring rain \ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27. We were spared nothing on this descent: rain, avalanches galore, roadworks and traffic from hell. Certainly not the best part of the trip!<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  4. At Bormio, you come up against a sign announcing that the road is closed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  5. Running into an Italian taxi driver who lifts the barrier, passes us by and says \"OK, it's forbidden, but there's absolutely nothing there and it's fine\".<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  6. Taking a chance, as Bruno and I are doing ... a little worried all the same. What will we find at the end?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  7. Being lucky enough to have Jean-Marc waiting for us at the bottom in case we have to go back down.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
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    Passo Eira (IT 2208).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Trepalle between the Passi d'Eira and di Foscagno<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Passo di Foscagno (IT 2292): a very testing descent (long, rainy, icy, damaged road, heavy traffic, etc.).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Fresco at Trepalle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    It's a really strange climb. The two of us are alone in this vastness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    First roadblock, which many vehicles pass. We also ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Two km further on, it's more serious. But an Italian taxi lifts the barrier and tells us - There's nothing there. Bruno and I went straight to ....<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    A bit scary. What will we find at the end ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    It's raining ... a lot ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    The road is all ours. It's pleasant, but strange and frightening.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

     On a positive note, we didn't see the taxi come back down. After about ten kilometres, we passed a car. I signalled for it to stop, but the driver thought I was waving and waved back without stopping. Another 3 km and we pass another car (they're the only two we see getting out). This one responds to my calls, stops and the driver confirms that \"it's on\". In fact, the configuration at the top is identical to the one we had at the bottom: a barrier, but it's not blocked, so it's possible to lift it.
    Of course, there's no network! Another 2 km and telephone communication is possible. I immediately call Jean-Marc and tell him, \"Go for it! It's either that or a 5-hour diversions...
    By the time he arrives, we're climbing a few more bends. There are 40 on the Lombardy side. I confess that, stressed by the situation, I didn't count them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    One of the 40 laces (48 on the other side)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    At last I've got a network. I call Jean Marc and encourage him to drop by.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Sacrario militare dello Stelvio (World War 1)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    3 km before the summit, a quick return trip to Switzerland's highest road pass, the Umbrail Pass at 2501 m. The last few kilometres are solid and we finally arrive at the Stelvio, the highest road pass in the Italian Alps at 2758 m (the highest in the Alps being the Iseran).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Quick foray into Switzerland for the Umbrail Pass (CH 2501)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Stelvio in sight!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
    \n
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    Finally together (phew!!), we're enjoying this hot chocolate. With cream, please! Thanks to Jean Marc, who is in charge of the catering, we'll be able to put on extra layers and long gloves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Passo dello Stelvio (IT-BZ-2758), the highest pass of the trip<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \n
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    A hot chocolate at the top of the Stelvio, before what promises to be a difficult descent<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    We get as warm as possible before the descent.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Our descent, on the South Tyrol side with its 48 bends, takes place in pouring rain \ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    We arrive in Malles-Venosta soaking wet. Our room soon looks like a camp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    We are in the German-speaking part of Italy. German takes precedence over Italian by far.
    Surprising ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Alternatively, if you want to climb the Stelvio without a car, but with plenty of bikes, two days after our visit there will be a special \"Stelvio without a car\" day.
    And if you want to climb the Stelvio in the sunshine, come on a day with good weather \ud83d\ude09 ... I was delighted to climb this legendary pass. Admittedly, we didn't do it in optimal conditions. Having said that, when we were preparing our trip, I'd got used to the idea that the climb might be impossible. I was thinking about a possible snowstorm. So I'm positive and I'm coming out of this adventure very happy. And, for the record, it snowed heavily the next day at the summit. As seen on the webcam at the summit.
    We didn't find out until the next day, but the road was closed due to a red alert: bad weather in Lombardy. So, of course, I'm keeping a low profile - it's obvious that we shouldn't have gone through. But thanks to this Italian taxi driver!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Day 6: from<\/em> Venosta trunks in Bolzano<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    137 km - 1950 m ascent, 2 passes <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    In Malles-Venosta, where we stopped yesterday, we were indeed in Italy, but in a German-speaking region. Everyone speaks German and everything is written, first in German and then in Italian. All the towns, places and so on have two names... You can feel the Germanic influence much more than the Italian. We will note this specificity almost as far as Bolzano.
    As much as I knew that Switzerland was divided between several cultural and linguistic regions. German, French, Italian and Romansh, to name but a few. The same goes for Belgium, with its French and Dutch speakers. I had no idea that German was the main language in certain Italian regions.

    We left Malles in the rain and the first 20 km were very unpleasant. After passing through Glorenza (Glurns), we took a cycle path for 30 km. It follows the Adige (Etsch), which has been made much bigger by the bad weather of recent days.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    We cross Glurns (Glorenza) in the rain.
    It's becoming a habit<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    First in German, then in Italian<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    We're in the Val Venosta, where apple orchards abound. I thought I'd seen them on my first day in Switzerland, but this is a whole new dimension. A very wide valley full of orchards that we follow for 60 km. Finally, it stopped raining \ud83d\ude0a.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Ascent to the Passo Palade invaded by motorcyclists. Their main distraction, after overtaking cyclists with their engines roaring, seems to be putting club stickers on the pass signs.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    The boundary between the two provinces marks the Passo Palade<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n
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    In Villini dell' Alpe, as everywhere else, the houses are decorated. The owner of this one explained to me that \"il pap\u00e0\" was the taxi driver and \"la mamma\" delivered the bread. At least that's what I understood, as she spoke neither French nor English and I spoke no Italian. What I understood perfectly was what she said to her husband when I left: \"il signore dice \u00e9 molto bello\", which I translated as \"the gentleman, he said it's very pretty\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    I spoke to the owner and I understand that, at the time, the mama delivered bread and the daddy drove the taxi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    It's another beautiful cycle path that takes us to the Passo della Mendola. It has the particularity of being between 9 and 20 % over the last 3 km. Ah, we're a long way from the cycle paths of the Landes! It's not the Stelvio, but still!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
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    Cycle path<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Passo Mendola (IT-BZ-1363)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
    \n
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    To support my previous comment about motorcyclists, note that this sign is perched about 5 m above the ground!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    On the magnificent descent of the Mendola, breathtaking views of Bolzano (Bolsen) and the Adige valley.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Another beautiful cycle path takes us through the valley between the many vineyards.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Arrive at our hotel after 137 km, D 1950 and 2 passes at low altitudes (1512 and 1363), but not as easy as all that! 50 km of magnificent cycle paths today.

    Tomorrow, the Dolomites. We're keeping our fingers crossed for good weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    As we leave the restaurant, there's a huge thunderstorm over the mountains surrounding the town. The thunder and lightning are impressive. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Come on, whatever falls tonight won't fall tomorrow... in principle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Day 7: from <\/em>Bolzano to Arabba<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    96 km - 3200 m of den+, 7 passes including 6 >2000 m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    For this stage, we'll be riding in a region that's the dream of every mountain-loving cyclist. For a centcolist, it's no exaggeration to call the Dolomites a must-see. A must, but a very demanding one!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Once again, we left the hotel in the rain. Bolzano is a large town, but getting out of the city is made easier by an excellent network of cycle paths.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    We ride alongside the Isarco (Eisack), crossing it via a curious wooden covered bridge. As soon as we left the valley, the gradients were impressive. Until then, I hadn't worn the 34 x 34. Now I have...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    As soon as we left the Isarco valley, the road began to buckle VERY badly.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    After passing through Kasteltuth (Castelrotto), where each house is more decorated than the next, we reach the passo di Pin\u00e9i ... in the fog. All the signs are now in 3 languages, Ladin, German and Italian. So we're diving into Runcadic or Rungaditsch or Roncadizza. Are there also 3 names for the inhabitants? Mystery .... <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Kasteltuth (Castelrotto)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Fortunately, Villa Gabriela is there to remind us that we're in Italy, not Germany.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    All entries are in Ladin, German and Italian<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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    Arrival at Runcadic, Rungaditsch or Roncadizza<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    I spent most of my professional career at the Post Office. So Jean-Marc's choice of venue for the picnic at Santa Crestina can only be a nod! There are also some very beautiful house decorations in the area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Ladin, German, Italian ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    A wink from Jean-Marc, in his choice of venue for the picnic at Santa Crestina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Santa Crestina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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    On the way up, a short return trip to the Sella del Cullac at 2018 m, but above all the Passo Gardena at 2121 m. The majestic Passo Gardena, I should say.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Near Passo Gardena<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Passo Gardena (IT-BZ-2121)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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    Back on the main road, the Passo del Sella (the first of its name) at 2231 is passed without damage. Afterwards, I encouraged Bruno to go and pick out the Forcella Rodella under the misleading promise \"It's not far and it's easy\". The first point was true. The second a little less so...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Back from the Gardena<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    From passo del Sella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \n
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    To Forcella Rodella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Forcella Rodella (IT-TN-2318<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Back from Forcella Rodella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    The Passo del Sella, at 2244 m, is the second of its kind and is much more marked than the first.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Between the two passi del Sella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    View of the passo del Sella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Next up is the famous Passo Pordoi. The first few kilometres are tough, but in line with what you'd expect from a major pass. It was in the last kilometre that things started to go wrong. A very violent hailstorm appeared without warning. At the summit, I quickly drew out my camera to take a shot that I didn't quite know I had. I put it away immediately to protect it from the hailstones. The hailstones may have been small, but they were numerous and hard on the face.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    On the fa\u00e7ade of a hotel, on the way up the Pordo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    So we'd already had rain. Now it's hail! Ah, you have to be in good spirits \ud83d\ude09\ud83d\ude04. And at the top of the Pordoi, it was 5\u00b0!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Our hotel is in Arraba, at the foot of the Pordoi. So we only have 10 km to go. The descent will be at a reduced pace, as it's raining and the road is slippery.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    I've booked two nights in a row at Arraba as tomorrow is the 'rest day'.
    Two nights in the same hotel means washing! The rooms are large, as is the bathroom, which quickly becomes cluttered with drying cycling clothes. As usual, I had a few metres of string followed and brought some clothes pegs. Once again, both came in very handy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Are we really in summer?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Logic would have dictated that I schedule the rest day 1 or 2 days before. And not on the 8th day. But I preferred the location, in the heart of the Dolomites, to the date. Time will tell if I did the right thing. Today's stage was short, 96 km, but steep, with 3,200 m of ascent. And there were plenty of passes to go round, with 7 of them, 6 of them \"2000\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Day 8 : <\/em>Rest day (\ud83d\ude09\ud83d\ude02). Loop around the hotel.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    55 km - 1460 m of den+, 3 passes including 2 > 2000<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    A rest day doesn't mean a day without cycling! But it does mean a slightly cooler day, just like for the riders in the Tour de France!
    As the weather is fine, our laundry moves from the bathroom to outside the room. We're on the first floor, but as the hotel is on a hillside, and we're at the back of the building, we have a level exit.
    When we leave, Jean-Marc, mocking, calls out to us from his balcony: \"Hey guys, wasn't this supposed to be a rest day?<\/p>\n\n\n

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    We leave the hotel at around 10.00am and it's immediately clear that we're not going to have the same day as yesterday. Fortunately!
    The view of the Pordoi is different from the one we had yesterday in the hail.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    The Pordoi as we saw it yesterday<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    A beautiful descent, the end of the Pordoi in fact, precedes the ascent of the Passo Campalongo.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Magnificent views of the Dolomites before dropping down to Corvara in Badia. To think that yesterday we were freezing with visibility limited to a few metres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Corvara in Badia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


    In San Cassigno, a beautiful and very logical sign for a ski and bike shop.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    The long 12km climb to the Passo di Valparola takes us past the lake of the same name. And there are still breathtaking views before you reach the summit, at an altitude of 2196m.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    From Costadedoi, up the passo di Valparola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    From Armentarola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Lago Valparola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Fort Tre Sassi, between the lake and the pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    From Fort Tre Sassi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    We then make our way to the Passo Falzarego, where we have some panini for lunch.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Falzarego, otherwise known as the \"false king\", is a crowded place. The cable car to the top of the mountain attracts crowds. There are also plenty of people on the roads. It's Sunday, and the weather is fine. There are a lot of motorcyclists. There are also a lot of cyclists, most of them couples. I didn't see a single group or club.
    In any case, many more cyclists than yesterday in the hail or two days ago in the rain on the Stelvio ... \ud83e\udd14.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    If your legs hurt!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Lagazuoi cable car and refuge<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


    A beautiful 15 km descent \ud83d\ude0a followed by a 4 km climb \ud83d\ude21, takes us back to Arabba after 55 km, D 1460 and 3 passes including 2 \"2000\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Back to Arabba<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    Our laundry is migrating again. This time we put it in the sun, where it quickly dried out. Luckily we were at the back of the establishment ...<\/p>\n\n\n

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    At Arabba, the hotel staff obviously speak Italian and German (and, fortunately, English). But above all, Ladin. Close to Romansh and Friulian, Ladin is spoken in Trentino-Alto Adige by around 30,000 people. Town and pass signs are often in Italian, German and Ladin, in that order.
    It's so confusing!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Day 9 : <\/em>From Arabba to Vigo-di-Cadore along the Strada Regionale 48 delle Dolomiti<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    97 km - 2085 m of den+, 2 passes including 1 > 2000<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Day breaks over Arabba.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    In the hotel lobby, these magnificent club chairs invite you to relax and concentrate. More prosaically, we thought breakfast was at 07:00, but it was half past...<\/p>\n\n\n

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    In full concentration!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    We leave Arabba on a beautiful descent and then a steep ascent to a viewpoint from which we can admire Caprile at the bottom of the valley and the Zima de Agnar\u00e9ze .<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Caprile, nestling along the Cordevole torrent and beneath the Zima de Aragn\u00e8ze.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Colle Santa Lucia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Then comes the very long ascent of the Passo di Giau: 16 km, 1235 m ascent, 29 bends, 8% average speed with passages at 15 ...<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Despite these frightening figures, the Partner is still going strong.
    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Despite these frightening figures, Jean Marc is still going strong \ud83d\ude09.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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    When you reach the summit, you really do feel like you've conquered a \"great Italian\". We're at an altitude of 2,232 metres. There are a lot of motorbikes. I didn't see the old boundary marker between the Austrian Empire and the Republic of Venice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    A phenomenal descent, on a wide, open road with little traffic, to Cortina d'Ampezzo. This is a very posh resort where the restaurants are not within our budget. So we didn't linger.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Cortina d'Ampezzo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    All the more so as there is another monument in sight, the Passo Tre Croci. The climb is long but not particularly difficult. At the summit, in the middle of nowhere, two huge hotels sit enthroned. The site is the starting point for numerous hikes, and hikers are legion.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Alver\u00e0 on the Tre Croci climb<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    Since we've been on the major passes, we've been constantly overtaken by Ferraris, Maseratis, Audis, BMWs and Mercedes of unusual models. And what can we say about the number of Porsches?
    Today, it's joined by a splendid Rolls registered in Switzerland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    We leave the hikers to their own devices and set off on a long descent with the last marmoreal peaks of the day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    After crossing Laggio di Cadore, we arrive in Vigo di Cadore where our hotel is located: Hotel da Marco. The friendly owner's first name is Dario, so perhaps he's Marco's son \ud83e\udd14.
    In any case, it was the mamma who prepared the excellent beetroot ravioli for the meal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Aurenzo di Cadore, on the shores of the Santa Caterina lago (or Auronzo lago)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Vigo di Cadore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Before tasting them, refreshments are in order after 97 km, the D2085 and 2 passes, one of them a \"2000\".<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Today, there wasn't a single flat section, just climbs and descents! And we've passed the 1000 km mark since the start. Trieste is getting closer!
    Or rather, since Trieste isn't moving, we're getting closer to Trieste...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Day 10 : <\/em>From Vigo-di-Cadore to Tarcento + LE Zoncolan!<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    148 km - 2800 m of den+, 7 passes including the impressive and unforgettable Zoncolan<\/p>\n\n\n

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    14th-century Chiesa Sant'Orsola in Vigo-di-Cadore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    As he does every morning, Jean Marc watches us set off. Today we started off dry, but it started raining very quickly. On the other hand, it was foggy from the start. I am having fun taking the same photo of Vigo di Cadore as the one I took yesterday on our arrival. I'm going to put them side by side in my next album.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    At Laggio di Cadore, I have time to take photos of these isards, unlike the two hinds that I will see later. They'll be much quicker than me.<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
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    Editor's note:<\/strong> isard, isard...bisard, bizarre! We're in the Alps, so those are chamois on the front. But what do you want? Once a Pyrenean, always a Pyrenean! So Fred has seen some isards.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The first ascent, of 19 km, was made in the rain. It was a difficult but very beautiful climb that we didn't enjoy because of the fog.
    We are in the middle of immense forests where forestry is well developed. The road through them is absolutely deserted.
    Sella di Razzo is a small, almost abandoned ski resort.<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
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    Valico di Cima Campigotto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    This cow is wondering what we're doing here. So am I...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Forcella Rioda, still in the fog<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    A long descent through the fir trees on a road badly damaged by the winter.<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    We're leaving the Dolomites and their characteristic peaks behind.
    We pass through some pretty, very isolated villages. We're in the Val P\u00e9sarina, the Valle del Tempo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
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    Prato Carniro<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Val P\u00e9sarina, Valle del Tempo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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    While Bruno and Jean-Marc have a nice meal, I take 3 bars and 2 compotes and set off to tackle the Sella del Monte Zoncolan, despite the already long and steep route.
    Unconsciousness? Insanity? Challenge? Passion?<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    I hadn't really planned it, but I'd made a note of the fact that we'd be passing close by. Not wanting to impose anything on Bruno and Jean-Marc, I left it to chance. I had noted the day before that, given the distances involved, it was a safe bet that the restaurant break would be near Comeglians, almost at the foot of the climb. Bingo! As luck would have it, Jean-Marc called me to say \u00abI've stopped off at Comeglians and I think I've found a nice restaurant\u00bb. The opportunity was just too good... I left my companions well settled and set off on an ascent of anthology...<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a>
    And on the most difficult side ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    The last 8 km are formidable. They oscillate between 16 and 24 %. And the first few kilometres are no picnic either!<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    The Zoncolan is reputed to be the hardest cycling climb in Europe. Only Spain's Angliru can compare.
    As my route to Trieste passes at the foot of the road, it would have been a shame not to do it...
    When Bruno calls me to say \u00abWe're just finishing the tiramisu, then we'll have coffee. Should we wait for you to join us? All I can say is, \u00bbOh no, I've still got 5 km to go, plus the descent on the other side, which means I'll have to make a diversion. You'd wait too long, go on and we'll see you at Tarcento\u00ab.
    It's true that these 5 km will take me... a while (as Bourvil would have said).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    On the way up I heard my brand new bike moaning, \u00bbIt had to be that madman who bought me! If only I'd been able to find a cyclist who'd ride 60 km on a Sunday and then let me rest all week!\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
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    I return to the valley on the other side. It's less difficult, but well worth the diversions, and there's a lovely ski resort. From the summit, I have around 80 km to go to Tarcento.
    I cross the very wide Tagliamento several times. It must be huge when the snow melts.
    I walk along the pretty Lagodi Cjaseria Muarta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Descent into the valley towards Sustrio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Lago di Cavazzo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    I'm really hungry this evening... What could be more normal after such an effort and having skipped a meal!<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Previous stage<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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    Day 11 : <\/em>From Tarcento to Trieste.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    127 km - 800 m of den+, 5 passes above Trieste<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    We leave Tarcento, sheltered by the mountains, in glorious sunshine.<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    I found the perfect street for Jean Marc and Bruno, who are very fond of cakes. For me, it will be steak. And we can all go for a birra together.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    It needed one! Puncture after 14 km and just over 100 km from the finish. Just before crossing Buttrio, the citt\u00e0 del vino.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Buttrio wine estate<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    We then pass by one hell of a Bed & Breakfast ... unless it's a hell of a Bed & Breakfast ... <\/p>\n\n\n

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    After 80 km, as we approach Trieste, the signs become bilingual: Italian and Slovenian.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    Now the Adriatic is in sight!<\/p>\n\n\n

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    the Adriatic!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    We are now in Trieste, after 1300 km and 23200 m of ascent. We've crossed 36 passes, 18 of which are over 2000m high. All this in 10 stages plus 1 day of \u00abrest\u00bb. There was a lot (too much) of rain, and even hail, but these are the hazards of touring. When you have an accompanying vehicle, you just have to know how to resist and not use it...<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
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    The Victory lighthouse on the Poggio di Gretta is visible from afar. This is to be expected, as it towers above us at 68 metres. The sailor, meanwhile, stands 8m 60 tall. The lighthouse commemorates the attachment of Trieste to Italy and celebrates the sailors who died at sea during the First World War.<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
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    With our goal achieved, we could head back to our hotel. But as one Centcolist remains a Centcolist, let alone two, we set off to find five on the heights of Trieste. On the heights is not a misnomer. In fact, the first pass is similar to a small Zoncolan. Several passes at 20 % take us there.
    The climb continues, giving us great views of the town and the sea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
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    The sella di Opicina is only 344 m high, but it is very steep to reach.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    To the sella di Trebiciano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Trieste from the heights<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Once we'd crossed the 5 passes, and after getting a bit lost on some huge bypasses, we could finally get back to the apartment hotel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    There was a dantesque storm in Trieste yesterday. As a result, the bike room in the residence where we were staying was inaccessible. Without a second thought, the manager gave us access to an extra room. Our bikes will be safe there for these 2 days and 2 nights. .
    A looped Thonon Trieste justifies a birra<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    Dinner in a trattoria and a stroll around Trieste, a beautiful city. Its status as a port and its geographical location have contributed to its wealth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Castello di San Guisto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Cattedrale di San Guisto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Today, 127 km, D 800 and 5 Italian passes above Trieste. Modest altitudes, but starting at hill zero. Not an easy ride ...
    In any case, winter is finally over and we're back to pleasant temperatures.

    \ud83d\ude0a\ud83c\udf89\ud83d\udc4dTHON- TRIESTE IS DONE!!\ud83d\ude0a\ud83c\udf89\ud83d\udc4d
    From Thonon, 1300 km, D 23500 and 36 passes, including 18 \"2000\".
    A great challenge! An itinerant journey, admittedly difficult, but with magnificent scenery. We travelled through places with very different cultures, even within the same country. And most of the people we met were friendly and welcoming.
    As we're staying in Trieste for two nights, tomorrow we'll be doing a bit of sightseeing. But that will be in the afternoon.
    In the morning, Slovenia is too close for us to drag the wheels of our bikes. <\/p>\n\n\n

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    (more)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    Previous stage<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
    Next stage: epilogue<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

    Day 12 : <\/em>morning cycling in Slovenia and afternoon visit to Trieste<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Thonon - Trieste may have come to an end, but the day following our arrival in port was a busy one nonetheless...
    While Jean Marc takes the bus around Trieste, Bruno and I spend the morning cycling in neighbouring Slovenia. The border is really too close for us not to put our wheels in a new country. The icing on the cake is that there are mountain passes! As I wrote earlier, Trieste is a big city. It's either the motorway or major roads that link it to the neighbouring country. So we made the approach by car. 
    As soon as we cross the border, the terrain becomes quite rugged. We pass through magnificent vineyards that take up almost the entire area. Like any wine-growing region, the area seems to be rich. The houses are imposing and well-built.<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Skopo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    The main attraction of the first pass we crossed was that it was Slovenian. It won't leave me with any lasting memories ...<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Preval Prevolec (SL-0333), whose only interest lies in being our first Slovenian pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    In contrast, the second is much more beautiful and pleasant. A beautiful road winds and climbs through the vineyards. At the top, you'll find a hint of Tuscany. Except for the superb rocky bar looming on the horizon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Goski Preval (SL-0233)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Since Goski Preval<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    At the Goski Preval, an air of Tuscany<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Podnanos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    We are in the Kras Teran wine-growing region. Teran is a grape variety native to the Kast region of Slovenia and the Karst region of Italy. It produces a wine with intense flavours. Intense, just like our adventure!<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Teran is a grape variety native to the Kast (Slovenia) and Karts (Italy) regions.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    Note that in Slovenia, cyclists are more square than in France. And the same goes for cows, deer and even children...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    The morning's results: 54km D 900 and my first two Slovenian passes.
    <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n
    Back to Sezana<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    We meet up with Jean Marc, and after lunch we head off to visit the Castello di Miramare. It was built between 1856 and 1860 for Maximilian of Hasbourg Lorraine Archduke of Austria (and future Emperor of Mexico) and his wife Charlotte of Belgium. Its name is inspired by the Spanish \u00bbmira mar\u00bb.
    The magnificent park is sufficient in itself, and we spent part of the afternoon there. It's huge, and we covered 7 km.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Afternoon walk in Miramare<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    Back at the residence, we barely had time to catch our breath before heading back to the centre of Trieste for a stroll and a bite to eat.
    Beautiful buildings line our route to Piazza dell'Unita d'Italia<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Piazza dell'Unita d'Italia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


    Progress is slowed by a \u00abbirra\u00bb stop, another for lunch and the last for a \u00abGelatti\u00ab stop.
    Another 7 km covered on this ride. As I wrote above, a busy day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a>
    Arrivederci Trieste!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


    Trieste's wealth is due in part to its port. For a very long time, the city was the gateway to all the coffee consumed in Italy. And if Italy is the land of coffee, Trieste is its capital. The people of Trieste consume twice as much coffee as the rest of the country. It comes in a variety of forms. Capo in B is the city's speciality. Capo stands for cappuccino and B for bicchiere (glass). So it's a cappuccino in a glass. But that's not all... It's sweeter than a cappuccino and very similar to a macchiato. Ah, the nuances and subtleties of the different \u00abmodels\u00bb. As subtle as the aromas of the coffee itself!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Tomorrow, back to Castelnaudary, P\u00e9chabou and L\u00e9guevin, in that order.
    As the route is long, there will be two stages with an overnight stop in Aix en Provence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    Previous stage<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
    Back to top<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

    <\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Apr\u00e8s le r\u00e9cit de Jean-Marc Lef\u00e8vre et celui de Philippe Chazottier c’est au tour de Fred Singla de nous raconter son aventure. Une magnifique randonn\u00e9e \u00e0 v\u00e9lo, con\u00e7ue par Georges Rossini, qui joint le lac L\u00e9man \u00e0 l’Adriatique en franchissant de nombreux cols. Cliquer sur le titre de l’\u00e9tape sous l’image pour voyager avec Fred […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5112,"featured_media":91787,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[82,129],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-91155","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyages","category-gazette"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nRandonn\u00e9e \u00e0 v\u00e9lo du lac L\u00e9man \u00e0 l'Adriatique - Club des Cent Cols<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Plongez dans l'aventure d'une randonn\u00e9e \u00e0 v\u00e9lo inoubliable, reliant le lac L\u00e9man \u00e0 Trieste par de grands cols des Alpes.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/centcols.org\/en\/thonon-trieste-fred-singla-2025\/\" \/>\n<link rel=\"next\" href=\"https:\/\/centcols.org\/thonon-trieste-fred-singla-2025\/2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Randonn\u00e9e \u00e0 v\u00e9lo du lac L\u00e9man \u00e0 l'Adriatique - 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