{"id":91155,"date":"2025-11-14T14:03:05","date_gmt":"2025-11-14T12:03:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/centcols.org\/?p=91155"},"modified":"2026-02-12T21:29:31","modified_gmt":"2026-02-12T19:29:31","slug":"thonon-trieste-fred-singla-2025","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/centcols.org\/en\/thonon-trieste-fred-singla-2025\/","title":{"rendered":"Thonon Trieste: Fred Singla cc 5173"},"content":{"rendered":"

After the narrated by Jean-Marc Lef\u00e8vre<\/a> and Philippe Chazottier's<\/a> it's Fred Singla's turn to tell us about his adventure. A magnificent bike ride, designed by Georges Rossini, that links Lake Geneva to the Adriatic, crossing a number of passes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Click on the stage title below the picture to travel with Fred and his two friends. In each episode, all the photos can be clicked for a larger view.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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Summary of stages<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Day 1: Thonon-les-Bains to Brig (Switzerland)<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 2: Brig (Switzerland) to Verbania (Italy)<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Day 3: Verbania to Campodolcino<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 4: Campodolcino to Livigno<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 5: Livigno to Malles-Venosta<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 6: Malles-Venosta to Bolzano<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 7: Bolzano to Arabba<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 8: Rest day. Loop around the hotel.<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a><\/a>Day 9: Arabba to Vigo-di-Cadore<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a>Day 10: Vigo-di-Cadore to<\/a> <\/a><\/a>Tarcento + LE Zoncolan!<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Day 11: Tarcento to <\/em>Trieste<\/a><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Day 12: Cycling in Slovenia and a visit to Trieste<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The prologue<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Saturday 23 August :<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

That's it, we're in Thonon-les-Bains! After being postponed for several years, the adventure can begin \ud83d\ude0a. In a few days' time, we should be in Trieste after crossing the Alpine arc and tackling the major passes of the Alps. So here we are, Bruno (cc 7753) and I, at the foot of the wall and Jean-Marc at the wheel of the Partner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jean-Marc and I have known each other since university. That's 42 years. We've seen each other's children born. I've lost count of the number of meals we've had together, New Year's Eve parties and other festivities we've shared. Our two couples have already gone on holiday together. As for Bruno, it's more than 25 years since we met and became friends. He has often taken part in the New Year's Eve celebrations and other meals mentioned above. And I've lost count of the number of cycling trips we've shared. In 2013, the two of us accompanied me on a cycling trip to Morocco. And in 2019 for a trip, again by bike, to Colorado. It was after this trip that Bruno joined our great brotherhood. As for me, I've been a member since 2000. And in recent years, I've taken part in many CCC trips. Most of them in the company of Bruno. And some of you may know me from the Rassemblement Pyr\u00e9n\u00e9en Bernardini, which I've been organising for you for some years now.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So I have absolutely no doubts that our little group should work well (and it obviously will!). That's it for the presentation of our team. Let's move on to the equipment.

I'd planned to set off with my gravel bike (which has the right developments and a very comfortable position). A technical problem on one of the chainrings prevented me from taking it. It was impossible to get the part before we set off. As for the Roubaix, its developments would not have enabled me to complete the difficult climbs that were planned.
. So I had to buy a new bike as a matter of urgency. In a hurry? Not really, because I'd already started looking at models a few weeks ago. The Roubaix was starting to wear out after 15 years and nearly 160,000 euros.
km ... (If you want to kill your dog, accuse it of rabies \ud83d\ude09 ).

This 1300-kilometre, 25,000-metre climb will be a good warm-up gallop for this new bike: Orbea Orca M30 for those in the know.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Here's the beast. And I can tell you, in retrospect, that it fulfilled its role very well!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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First<\/strong> Step <\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Day 1: Thonon-les-Bains to Brig (Switzerland)<\/em><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

169 km – 1700 m de den+, 1 col<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A quick glance at Lake Geneva, and we're off to Thonon-les-Bains. We're off on a long journey.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Lake Geneva<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Apr\u00e8s 15 km, nous buttons sur une route ferm\u00e9e, et bien ferm\u00e9e, pour cause de travaux . La d\u00e9viation propos\u00e9e est tr\u00e8s longue et nous d\u00e9cidons de passer outre.
It's a good thing it's Sunday, because the workers would never have let us through...
Ils purgent la falaise qui surplombe la route sur laquelle Bruno s’engage . Nous franchissons l’obstacle et tr\u00e8s rapidement …  il n’y a plus de route !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After that, we'll be facing no less than two portals. It's in the face of adversity that the saying \"there's strength in numbers\" really comes into its own. Indeed, these obstacles would have been almost impossible for a single person to overcome.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We then passed through Abondance and Ch\u00e2tel. Ch\u00e2tel had the pleasure of hosting the Tour de France for Women a few weeks earlier.
One climb later, we arrive at the Pas de Morgins or Col d'Abondance, which marks the border. We've crossed into Switzerland and are now in the Valais.
The pass is the first on our journey. We stayed there for a while to take in the beautiful view of Ch\u00e2tel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fred<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Bruno and Jean-Marc<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
The fine team at the first pass of the journey<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Then follows a magnificent descent into a wide valley filled with orchards.
A cycle path provides almost constant safety. It passes at the foot of the waterfall, poetically named Pissevaches. 
The Rh\u00f4ne, which is crossed several times, is the colour of melting snow.
Around Sion, orchards give way to magnificent vineyards on steep hillsides.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ch\u00e2tel from the Morgins pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Crossing the Rh\u00f4ne at Riddes (Switzerland)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Sion vineyard.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Sion vineyard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nous arrivons \u00e0 Brig apr\u00e8s 169 km, D 1700 et un col.

Brig, where there are no longer streets but stra\u00dfe. In fact, we slipped several kilometres from the French-speaking part to the German-speaking part.
The same advertisements we saw in French in Monthey, Martigny or Sion are now in German. So are surnames, village names and company names. And people no longer speak French...<\/p>\n\n\n

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Tomorrow sees the start of the major cols.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Prologue<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
Next step<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Day 2: from Brig (Switzerland)<\/em> in Verbania (Italy)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

100 km - 1500 m of den+, 1 pass >2000<\/p>\n\n\n

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Beautiful barn on stilts in Ried-Brig<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

No warm-up when we leave the hotel. And with good reason: it's at the foot of the pass! We hit the ground running.
We start with 7 km without traffic on the old road through Ried. The climb offers a great view of the road we'll be taking next. It's on stilts and seems to be clinging to the mountain. <\/p>\n\n\n

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On the way up, a view of Brig, which is rapidly disappearing into the distance.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

At km 7, we rejoin the main road. Despite the Simplon tunnel, there's still a lot of traffic, but it's still OK for another 5 or 6 km. Then we come to the many long paravalanches, where the traffic has increased because of the time of day, and the noise is infernal!
It's a long drive, but we've had time to enjoy the pretty hamlets and surrounding peaks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Finally, the Simplonpass is reached, along with its 9m-high eagle. Erected after the Second World War, it symbolises the courage of the \u00abFreedom Brigades\u00ab.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Simplon Pass Hospice<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The descent includes as many paravalanches as the ascent, and even more as it is longer. Still some beautiful villages, just before crossing back into Italy.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Simplon Dorf (Switzerland)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

In Domodossola, we meet Jean-Marc in front of the beautiful station. We stop for lunch in a friendly trattoria. We then had around forty km to go, mostly straight lines and with a fairly strong and obviously unfavourable wind.
After crossing the Toce, we follow it for a long time. All this leads us to the edge of Lago Maggiore, where our hotel is located.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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le Toce<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Verbania, on the shores of Lago Maggiore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After settling in, we take a short stroll along the lakeshore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A walk that takes us to a terrace where a good beer is much appreciated after 100 km, 1500 ascent and a beautiful pass at 2000 Swiss.<\/p>\n\n\n

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The sun is setting over Lake Maggiore and I'm going to bed too, as we have a VERY tough day ahead of us tomorrow. Perhaps the hardest of the trip...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Previous stage<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
Next step<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Jour 3 : de <\/em>Verbania to Campodolcino<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

167 km – 3000 m de den+, 3 cols<\/p>\n\n\n

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Sunrise over Lago Maggiore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Breakfast is served too late for us, who want to leave early in anticipation of the hard day ahead.
Bruno and I have a bite to eat (sausage, cheese and fruit) in the hotel car park. This allows us to enjoy a splendid sunrise over Lake Maggiore.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Nous d\u00e9collons \u00e0 06 h 45 et sommes rapidement en vue du joli village de Cannobio. Nous longeons le lac sur 50 km. La route est \u00e9troite et, malgr\u00e9 l’heure, la circulation intense.
The first 35 km are in Italy, with superb villas dating from the 1920s. The last 15 km are in Switzerland, with homes that are also of a high standard, but more recent. Some even have huge outdoor lifts...<\/p>\n\n\n

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Cannobio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Apr\u00e8s 80 km de plat, nous sommes au c\u0153ur des montagnes. Les premiers lacets du Passo di san Bernardino apparaissent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Foot of the San Bernardino pass.
Je savais que les r\u00e9servistes suisses gardent leurs armes \u00e0 domicile, mais un avion de chasse ????\u2026<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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No time to stop at the caff\u00e9...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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First laces of the San Bernardino<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Climbing San Berdardino, a quick return trip to Forcola (CH-1598)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


20 km plus tard, nous n’avons atteint \u00ab\u00a0que\u00a0\u00bb le village de San Bernardino o\u00f9 tr\u00f4ne une belle basilique.<\/p>\n\n\n

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In San Bernardino, Chiesa Rotonda (1867 \/ 1897).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Les derniers lacets sont longs, plus de 10 km suppl\u00e9mentaires, et redoutables. Le Passo di San Bernardino est un gros morceau : plus de 30 km donc et plus de 1500 m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9. Les difficult\u00e9s \u00e9tant concentr\u00e9es dans le dernier tiers .Une barre rocheuse surplombe le lac Moesola sis au col o\u00f9 notre petite \u00e9quipe se r\u00e9unit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Final laces of the Passo di San Bernardino<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Close to the summit<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Lake Moesola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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La longue descente commence par une s\u00e9rie de lacets et nous plongeons sur Spl\u00fcgen pr\u00e9s de 1000 m plus bas. 1000 m qu’il faut imm\u00e9diatement regagner par des lacets tr\u00e8s serr\u00e9s ou Jean Marc ne s’est pas amus\u00e9 avec le Partner.
Le Spl\u00fcgenpass est magnifique \u00e0 grimper mais d’une tr\u00e8s grande difficult\u00e9. Un \u00ab\u00a0petit\u00a0\u00bb Stelvio ? Nous verrons \u00e7a apr\u00e8s demain …<\/p>\n\n\n

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Sl\u00fcgenpass or passo dello Spluga laces<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Descent of the San Bernardino<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Spl\u00fcgen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


Descente ensuite sur Spluga en Italie, le col marquant la fronti\u00e8re. Non sans passer par \u00ab\u00a0l’empilement\u00a0\u00bb de tunnels, au moins 10, et de 33 virages difficiles \u00e0 n\u00e9gocier car 2 voitures ne s’y croisent pas !<\/p>\n\n\n

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Magnificent road with spiral tunnels<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Campodolcino o\u00f9 nous sommes accueillis avec un jus de fruits. Accueil sympa et bien m\u00e9rit\u00e9 aupr\u00e8s 167 km, plus de 3000 m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 et deux grands cols suisses (plus un \u00ab\u00a0petit\u00a0\u00bb chass\u00e9 au passage).
Une TRES grosse sortie !!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Previous stage<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
Next step<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Day 4: d<\/em>e Campodolcino in Livigno<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

106 km - 2455 m of den+, 3 passes including 2 > 2000<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was raining this morning when we had breakfast. But by the time we set off, the rain has stopped and will be absent all day.
On a wet road, the 10km descent is approached carefully.<\/p>\n\n\n

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After a beautiful descent from Campodolcino, we reach Borgonuovo and the cascate dell'Acquafraggia.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

800 m downhill later, we're in Chiavenna. There's a vending machine where we can buy milk, yoghurt and cheese. But we don't need them, having had a great breakfast at the hotel...<\/p>\n\n\n

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La Mera at Promontogno, we're in Switzerland again<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

We soon left Italy and crossed back into Switzerland. We come across a few cows. What would Switzerland be without its cows! And yet we saw very few of them. In fact, there are a lot more ... crazy bikers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We're soon tackling the magnificent Passo de Maloja, which is automatically in my top 10. It's so beautiful!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Going up the passo del Majola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Climbing the Passo del Majola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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At the end of the climb, we reach a superb high plateau. It begins with a huge lake and ends 16 km further on in Saint Moritz. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We are in the Engandine valley between the Maloja and Bernina passes. In Saint Moritz is the Grand H\u00f4tel des Bains ... where I have not booked.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Lago di Sils in the Engandine valley, between the passi del Maloja and del Bernina.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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In Sankt Moritz, Grand H\u00f4tel des Bains ... where I hadn't booked!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Then comes the ascent of the Passo del Bernina, the highest pass in the Swiss Alps, open all year round. Here we pass the Bernina Express, which links Chur (Graub\u00fcnden) to Tirano (Lombardy) via 195 bridges and 55 tunnels. It's surprising to see a train at this altitude that isn't rack-and-pinion. Maximum gradient of 7%, otherwise it won't go through! Railway standard obligatory.
Before reaching the pass, we pass a beautiful lake. And we're lucky enough to come across the Bernina Express.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Climb the Passo del Bernina, the highest pass in the Swiss Alps, open all year round.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The Bernina Express (which links Croire, Graub\u00fcnden, to Tirano, Lombardy, via 195 bridges and 55 tunnels) runs alongside the Lej Nair (Black Lake).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Ready for the Bernina descent<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On the way down the Bernina, a few more cows. Some have square bells, others round.<\/p>\n\n\n

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We still have to climb back up to Forcala di Livigno, at 2313 m, in 3 km at an average speed of 9%. We pass a lot of fuel tankers. We'll understand why when we learn that Livigno is a free zone. And that's where we'll be filling up with diesel at \u20ac1.15 a litre. Compared with \u20ac1.60 everywhere else in Italy.
At the end of a long descent, we arrive in Livigno, where there must be strict town planning regulations. Most of the flowers on the balconies are identical in colour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Descent to Livigno<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Livignio is therefore a free zone, thanks to its isolation. So there's very little tax ... and lots of tourists.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We're enjoying the comfort of our g\u00eete after 106 km, 2455 m of ascent and 3 magnificent passes, including 2 \u00ab2000\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Our g\u00eete in Livigno<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Previous stage<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Jour 5 : de <\/em>Livigno \u00e0 Malles-Venosta : Le Stelvio : DANTESQUE mais WAHOU !!<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

95 km – 2200 m de den+ et \ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Thursday 28, like every other day, up at the crack of dawn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Like every day, a solid breakfast, and this is just a sample ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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We leave Livigno in the rain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Comment monter le Stelvio sans aucune voiture (ni aucun v\u00e9lo …) ? C’est tout simple, il suffit de suivre les points 1 \u00e0 6 :<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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  1. Leave Livigno and start the day's stage by climbing the Passo d'Eira.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Then descend into a small valley to pass Trepalle (beautiful fresco) between the passi d'Eira and di Foscagno.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Remonter vers le Passo di Foscagno avant d’entamer une descente d’anthologie vers Bormio sous une pluie battante \ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27. Rien ne nous est \u00e9pargn\u00e9 dans cette descente : la pluie donc, des paravalanches \u00e0 foison, des travaux et une circulation d’enfer. Certainement pas le meilleur moment du p\u00e9riple !!<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  4. At Bormio, you come up against a sign announcing that the road is closed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  5. Running into an Italian taxi driver who lifts the barrier, passes us by and says \"OK, it's forbidden, but there's absolutely nothing there and it's fine\".<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  6. Tenter le coup comme Bruno et moi le faisons … un peu inquiets tout de m\u00eame. Qu’allons nous trouver au bout ?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  7. Being lucky enough to have Jean-Marc waiting for us at the bottom in case we have to go back down.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
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    Passo Eira (IT 2208).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Trepalle between the Passi d'Eira and di Foscagno<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Passo di Foscagno (IT 2292): a very testing descent (long, rainy, icy, damaged road, heavy traffic, etc.).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Fresco at Trepalle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    It's a really strange climb. The two of us are alone in this vastness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
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    First roadblock, which many vehicles pass. We also ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Two km further on, it's more serious. But an Italian taxi lifts the barrier and tells us - There's nothing there. Bruno and I went straight to ....<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    A bit scary. What will we find at the end ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    It's raining ... a lot ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    The road is all ours. It's pleasant, but strange and frightening.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

     Point positif, nous ne voyons pas redescendre le taxi. Apr\u00e8s une dizaine de km, nous croisons une voiture. Je lui fait signe de s’arr\u00eater mais le conducteur croit que je le salue et me renvoie mon salut sans s’arr\u00eater. Encore 3 km et nous croisons  une autre voiture (ce seront les deux seules que nous verrons descendre). Celle ci r\u00e9pond \u00e0 mes appels, s’arr\u00eate et le conducteur me confirme qu’en haut, \u00ab\u00a0Ca  passe\u00a0\u00bb. En fait, la configuration en haut est identique \u00e0 celle que nous avons eue en bas : une barri\u00e8re mais non bloqu\u00e9e et qu’il est donc possible de lever.
    Evidemment, pas de r\u00e9seau ! Encore 2 km et la communication t\u00e9l\u00e9phonique est possible. J’appelle imm\u00e9diatement Jean-Marc et lui dit \u00ab\u00a0Fonce !!\u00a0\u00bb C’est \u00e7a ou un d\u00e9tour de 5 h …
    By the time he arrives, we're climbing a few more bends. There are 40 on the Lombardy side. I confess that, stressed by the situation, I didn't count them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
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    One of the 40 laces (48 on the other side)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    At last I've got a network. I call Jean Marc and encourage him to drop by.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Sacrario militare dello Stelvio (World War 1)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    3 km avant le sommet, aller retour rapide pour aller chercher le plus haut col routier de Suisse, l’Umbrail Pass \u00e0 2501 m. Les derniers km sont solides et nous arrivons enfin au Stelvio, plus haut col routier des Alpes Italiennes \u00e0 2758 m (le plus haut des Alpes \u00e9tant l’Iseran).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Quick foray into Switzerland for the Umbrail Pass (CH 2501)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Stelvio en vue !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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    Enfin r\u00e9unis (ouf !!) , nous appr\u00e9cions ce chocolat chaud. Avec cr\u00e8me s’il vous plait ! Merci Jean Marc qui assure l’intendance ce qui nous permet de mettre des couches suppl\u00e9mentaire et des gants longs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
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    Passo dello Stelvio (IT-BZ-2758), the highest pass of the trip<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    A hot chocolate at the top of the Stelvio, before what promises to be a difficult descent<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    We get as warm as possible before the descent.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Our descent, on the South Tyrol side with its 48 bends, takes place in pouring rain \ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27\ud83c\udf27.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    We arrive in Malles-Venosta soaking wet. Our room soon looks like a camp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
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    We are in the German-speaking part of Italy. German takes precedence over Italian by far.
    Surprising ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Alternatively, if you want to climb the Stelvio without a car, but with plenty of bikes, two days after our visit there will be a special \"Stelvio without a car\" day.
    And if you want to climb the Stelvio in the sunshine, come on a day with good weather \ud83d\ude09 ... I was delighted to climb this legendary pass. Admittedly, we didn't do it in optimal conditions. Having said that, when we were preparing our trip, I'd got used to the idea that the climb might be impossible. I was thinking about a possible snowstorm. So I'm positive and I'm coming out of this adventure very happy. And, for the record, it snowed heavily the next day at the summit. As seen on the webcam at the summit.
    Nous ne l’apprendrons que le lendemain mais la route \u00e9tait ferm\u00e9e en raison d’une alerte rouge : intemp\u00e9ries sur la Lombardie. Alors, bien s\u00fbr, je fais profil bas, il est \u00e9vident que nous n’aurions pas du passer. Mais, merci \u00e0 ce chauffeur de taxi italien !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Day 6: from<\/em> Venosta trunks in Bolzano<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    137 km - 1950 m ascent, 2 passes <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    In Malles-Venosta, where we stopped yesterday, we were indeed in Italy, but in a German-speaking region. Everyone speaks German and everything is written, first in German and then in Italian. All the towns, places and so on have two names... You can feel the Germanic influence much more than the Italian. We will note this specificity almost as far as Bolzano.
    As much as I knew that Switzerland was divided between several cultural and linguistic regions. German, French, Italian and Romansh, to name but a few. The same goes for Belgium, with its French and Dutch speakers. I had no idea that German was the main language in certain Italian regions.

    We left Malles in the rain and the first 20 km were very unpleasant. After passing through Glorenza (Glurns), we took a cycle path for 30 km. It follows the Adige (Etsch), which has been made much bigger by the bad weather of recent days.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    We cross Glurns (Glorenza) in the rain.
    It's becoming a habit<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    First in German, then in Italian<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    We're in the Val Venosta, where apple orchards abound. I thought I'd seen them on my first day in Switzerland, but this is a whole new dimension. A very wide valley full of orchards that we follow for 60 km. Finally, it stopped raining \ud83d\ude0a.<\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
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    Ascent to the Passo Palade invaded by motorcyclists. Their main distraction, after overtaking cyclists with their engines roaring, seems to be putting club stickers on the pass signs.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    The boundary between the two provinces marks the Passo Palade<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n
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    In Villini dell\u2019 Alpe, as everywhere else, the houses are decorated. The owner of this one explained to me that \u00abil pap\u00e0\u00bb was the taxi driver and \u00abla mamma\u00bb delivered the bread. At least that's what I understood, as she spoke neither French nor English and I spoke no Italian. What I understood perfectly was what she said to her husband when I left: \u00abil signore dice \u00e9 molto bello\u00bb, which I translated as \u00abthe gentleman, he said it's very pretty\u00bb.\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/a>
    I spoke to the owner and I understand that, at the time, the mama delivered bread and the daddy drove the taxi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    It's another beautiful cycle path that takes us to the Passo della Mendola. It has the particularity of being between 9 and 20 % over the last 3 km. Ah, we're a long way from the cycle paths of the Landes! It's not the Stelvio, but still!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
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    Cycle path<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Passo Mendola (IT-BZ-1363)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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    To support my previous comment about motorcyclists, note that this sign is perched about 5 m above the ground!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    On the magnificent descent of the Mendola, breathtaking views of Bolzano (Bolsen) and the Adige valley.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Another beautiful cycle path takes us through the valley between the many vineyards.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Arrive at our hotel after 137 km, D 1950 and 2 passes at low altitudes (1512 and 1363), but not as easy as all that! 50 km of magnificent cycle paths today.

    Tomorrow, the Dolomites. We're keeping our fingers crossed for good weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    As we leave the restaurant, there's a huge thunderstorm over the mountains surrounding the town. The thunder and lightning are impressive. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Come on, whatever falls tonight won't fall tomorrow... in principle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Day 7: from <\/em>Bolzano to Arabba<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    96 km - 3200 m of den+, 7 passes including 6 >2000 m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    On this stage, we'll be riding in a region that's the dream of every mountain-loving cyclist. For a centcolist, it's no exaggeration to call the Dolomites a must-see. A must, but a very demanding one!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Once again, we left the hotel in the rain. Bolzano is a large town, but getting out of the city is made easier by an excellent network of cycle paths.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    We ride alongside the Isarco (Eisack), crossing it via a curious wooden covered bridge. As soon as we left the valley, the gradients were impressive. Until then, I hadn't worn the 34 x 34. Now I have...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    \"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    As soon as we left the Isarco valley, the road began to buckle VERY badly.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    After passing through Kasteltuth (Castelrotto), where each house is more decorated than the next, we reach the passo di Pin\u00e9i ... in the fog. All the signs are now in 3 languages, Ladin, German and Italian. So we're diving into Runcadic or Rungaditsch or Roncadizza. Are there also 3 names for the inhabitants? Mystery .... <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Kasteltuth (Castelrotto)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Fortunately, Villa Gabriela is there to remind us that we're in Italy, not Germany.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    All entries are in Ladin, German and Italian<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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    Arrival at Runcadic, Rungaditsch or Roncadizza<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    I spent most of my professional career at the Post Office. So Jean-Marc's choice of venue for the picnic at Santa Crestina can only be a nod! There are also some very beautiful house decorations in the area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Ladin, German, Italian ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    A wink from Jean-Marc, in his choice of venue for the picnic at Santa Crestina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Santa Crestina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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    On the way up, a short return trip to the Sella del Cullac at 2018 m, but above all the Passo Gardena at 2121 m. The majestic Passo Gardena, I should say.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Near Passo Gardena<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Passo Gardena (IT-BZ-2121)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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    Back on the main road, the Passo del Sella (the first of its name) at 2231 is passed without damage. Afterwards, I encouraged Bruno to go and pick out the Forcella Rodella under the misleading promise \"It's not far and it's easy\". The first point was true. The second a little less so...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Back from the Gardena<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    From passo del Sella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    To Forcella Rodella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Forcella Rodella (IT-TN-2318<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Back from Forcella Rodella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    The Passo del Sella, at 2244 m, is the second of its kind and is much more marked than the first.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Between the two passi del Sella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    View of the passo del Sella<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Next up is the famous Passo Pordoi. The first few kilometres are tough, but in line with what you'd expect from a major pass. It was in the last kilometre that things started to go wrong. A very violent hailstorm appeared without warning. At the summit, I quickly drew out my camera to take a shot that I didn't quite know I had. I put it away immediately to protect it from the hailstones. The hailstones may have been small, but they were numerous and hard on the face.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    On the fa\u00e7ade of a hotel, on the way up the Pordo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    So we'd already had rain. Now it's hail! Ah, you have to be in good spirits \ud83d\ude09\ud83d\ude04. And at the top of the Pordoi, it was 5\u00b0!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Our hotel is in Arraba, at the foot of the Pordoi. So we only have 10 km to go. The descent will be at a reduced pace, as it's raining and the road is slippery.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    I've booked two nights in a row at Arraba as tomorrow is the 'rest day'.
    Two nights in the same hotel means washing! The rooms are large, as is the bathroom, which quickly becomes cluttered with drying cycling clothes. As usual, I had a few metres of string followed and brought some clothes pegs. Once again, both came in very handy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Are we really in summer?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Logic would have dictated that I schedule the rest day 1 or 2 days before. And not on the 8th day. But I preferred the location, in the heart of the Dolomites, to the date. Time will tell if I did the right thing. Today's stage was short, 96 km, but steep, with 3,200 m of ascent. And there were plenty of passes to go round, with 7 of them, 6 of them \u00ab2000\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Day 8 : <\/em>Rest day (\ud83d\ude09\ud83d\ude02). Loop around the hotel.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    55 km - 1460 m of den+, 3 passes including 2 > 2000<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    A rest day doesn't mean a day without cycling! But it does mean a slightly cooler day, just like for the riders in the Tour de France!
    As the weather is fine, our laundry moves from the bathroom to outside the room. We're on the first floor, but as the hotel is on a hillside, and we're at the back of the building, we have a level exit.
    When we leave, Jean-Marc, mocking, calls out to us from his balcony: \u00abHey guys, wasn't this supposed to be a rest day?\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n

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    We leave the hotel at around 10.00am and it's immediately clear that we're not going to have the same day as yesterday. Fortunately!
    The view of the Pordoi is different from the one we had yesterday in the hail.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    The Pordoi as we saw it yesterday<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    A beautiful descent, the end of the Pordoi in fact, precedes the ascent of the Passo Campalongo.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Magnificent views of the Dolomites before dropping down to Corvara in Badia. To think that yesterday we were freezing with visibility limited to a few metres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Corvara in Badia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


    In San Cassigno, a beautiful and very logical sign for a ski and bike shop.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    The long 12km climb to the Passo di Valparola takes us past the lake of the same name. And there are still breathtaking views before you reach the summit, at an altitude of 2196m.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    From Costadedoi, up the passo di Valparola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    From Armentarola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Lago Valparola<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Fort Tre Sassi, between the lake and the pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    From Fort Tre Sassi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    We then make our way to the Passo Falzarego, where we have a few paninis for lunch.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Falzarego, otherwise known as the \"false king\", is a crowded place. The cable car to the top of the mountain attracts crowds. There are also plenty of people on the roads. It's Sunday, and the weather is fine. There are a lot of motorcyclists. There are also a lot of cyclists, most of them couples. I didn't see a single group or club.
    In any case, many more cyclists than yesterday in the hail or two days ago in the rain on the Stelvio ... \ud83e\udd14.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    If your legs hurt!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Lagazuoi cable car and refuge<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


    A beautiful 15 km descent \ud83d\ude0a followed by a 4 km climb \ud83d\ude21, takes us back to Arabba after 55 km, D 1460 and 3 passes including 2 \u00ab2000\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Back to Arabba<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    Our laundry is migrating again. This time we put it in the sun, where it quickly dried out. Luckily we were at the back of the establishment ...<\/p>\n\n\n

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    At Arabba, the hotel staff obviously speak Italian and German (and, fortunately, English). But above all, Ladin. Close to Romansh and Friulian, Ladin is spoken in Trentino-Alto Adige by around 30,000 people. Town and pass signs are often in Italian, German and Ladin, in that order.
    It's so confusing!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Jour 9 : <\/em>From Arabba to Vigo-di-Cadore along the Strada Regionale 48 delle Dolomiti<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    97 km – 2085 m de den+, 2 cols dont 1 > 2000<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Day breaks over Arabba.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    Dans le hall de l’h\u00f4tel, ces magnifiques fauteuils club appellent \u00e0 la relaxation et \u00e0 la concentration. Plus prosa\u00efquement, nous pensions que le petit d\u00e9jeuner \u00e9tait \u00e0 07 h 00, mais c’\u00e9tait \u00e0 la demie \u2026<\/p>\n\n\n

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    En pleine concentration !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    We leave Arabba on a beautiful descent and then a steep ascent to a viewpoint from which we can admire Caprile at the bottom of the valley and the Zima de Agnar\u00e9ze .<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Caprile, nestling along the Cordevole torrent and beneath the Zima de Aragn\u00e8ze.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Colle Santa Lucia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Vient ensuite la tr\u00e8s longue mont\u00e9e du Passo di Giau : 16 km, 1235 m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9, 29 virages, 8% de moyenne avec des passages \u00e0 15 \u2026<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Despite these frightening figures, the Partner is still going strong.
    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Despite these frightening figures, Jean Marc is still going strong \ud83d\ude09.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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    Lorsque l’on arrive au sommet, on a v\u00e9ritablement l’impression d’avoir vaincu un \u00ab\u00a0grand d’Italie\u00a0\u00bb. Nous sommes \u00e0 2232 m d’altitude. Il y a \u00e9norm\u00e9ment de motos. Je n’ai pas vu l’ancienne borne marquant la fronti\u00e8re entre l’empire d’Autriche et la R\u00e9publique de Venise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    A phenomenal descent, on a wide, open road with little traffic, to Cortina d'Ampezzo. This is a very posh resort where the restaurants are not within our budget. So we didn't linger.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Cortina d'Ampezzo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    All the more so as there is another monument in sight, the Passo Tre Croci. The climb is long but not particularly difficult. At the summit, in the middle of nowhere, two huge hotels sit enthroned. The site is the starting point for numerous hikes, and hikers are legion.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Alver\u00e0 on the Tre Croci climb<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    Depuis que nous sommes dans les grands cols, nous sommes doubl\u00e9s en permanence par des Ferrari, Mas\u00e9rati, Audi, BMW et Mercedes de mod\u00e8les peu courants. Et que dire du nombre de Porsche ?!
    Today, it's joined by a splendid Rolls registered in Switzerland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    We leave the hikers to their own devices and set off on a long descent with the last marmoreal peaks of the day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Apr\u00e8s avoir travers\u00e9 Laggio di Cadore, nous arrivons \u00e0 Vigo di Cadore o\u00f9 se trouve notre h\u00f4tel : H\u00f4tel da Marco. Le sympathique propri\u00e9taire \u00e9tant pr\u00e9nomm\u00e9 Dario, c’est peut-\u00eatre le fils du dit Marco \ud83e\udd14.
    In any case, it was the mamma who prepared the excellent beetroot ravioli for the meal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Aurenzo di Cadore, on the shores of the Santa Caterina lago (or Auronzo lago)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Vigo di Cadore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Avant de les d\u00e9guster, rafra\u00eechissements de rigueur apr\u00e8s 97 km, D 2085 et 2 cols dont un \u00ab\u00a02000\u00a0\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Aujourd’hui, pas une portion de plat, uniquement des mont\u00e9es et des descentes ! Et nous avons franchi les 1000 km depuis le d\u00e9part. Trieste se rapproche !
    Or rather, since Trieste isn't moving, we're getting closer to Trieste...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Day 10 : <\/em>From Vigo-di-Cadore to Tarcento + LE Zoncolan!<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    148 km - 2800 m of den+, 7 passes including the impressive and unforgettable Zoncolan<\/p>\n\n\n

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    14th-century Chiesa Sant'Orsola in Vigo-di-Cadore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    As he does every morning, Jean Marc watches us set off. Today we started off dry, but it started raining very quickly. On the other hand, it was foggy from the start. I am having fun taking the same photo of Vigo di Cadore as the one I took yesterday on our arrival. I'm going to put them side by side in my next album.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    At Laggio di Cadore, I have time to take photos of these isards, unlike the two hinds that I will see later. They'll be much quicker than me.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Editor's note:<\/strong> isard, isard...bisard, bizarre! We're in the Alps, so those are chamois on the front. But what do you want? Once a Pyrenean, always a Pyrenean! So Fred has seen some isards.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The first ascent, of 19 km, was made in the rain. It was a difficult but very beautiful climb, which we didn't enjoy because of the fog.
    We are in the middle of immense forests where forestry is well developed. The road through them is absolutely deserted.
    Sella di Razzo is a small, almost abandoned ski resort.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Valico di Cima Campigotto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    This cow is wondering what we're doing here. So am I...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Forcella Rioda, still in the fog<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    A long descent through the fir trees on a road badly damaged by the winter.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    We're leaving the Dolomites and their characteristic peaks behind.
    We pass through some pretty, very isolated villages. We're in the Val P\u00e9sarina, the Valle del Tempo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Prato Carniro<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Val P\u00e9sarina, Valle del Tempo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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    While Bruno and Jean-Marc have a nice meal, I take 3 bars and 2 compotes and set off to tackle the Sella del Monte Zoncolan, despite the already long and steep route.
    Unconsciousness? Insanity? Challenge? Passion?<\/p>\n\n\n

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    I hadn't really planned it, but I'd made a note of the fact that we'd be passing close by. Not wanting to impose anything on Bruno and Jean-Marc, I left it to chance. I had noted the day before that, given the distances involved, it was a safe bet that the restaurant break would be near Comeglians, almost at the foot of the climb. Bingo! As luck would have it, Jean-Marc called me to say \u00abI've stopped off at Comeglians and I think I've found a nice restaurant\u00bb. The opportunity was just too good... I left my companions well settled and set off on an ascent of anthology...<\/p>\n\n\n

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    And on the most difficult side ...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    The last 8 km are formidable. They oscillate between 16 and 24 %. And the first few kilometres are no picnic either!<\/p>\n\n\n

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    The Zoncolan is reputed to be the hardest cycling climb in Europe. Only Spain's Angliru can compare.
    As my route to Trieste passes at the foot of the road, it would have been a shame not to do it...
    When Bruno calls me to say \u00abWe're just finishing the tiramisu, then we'll have coffee. Should we wait for you to join us? All I can say is, \u00bbOh no, I've still got 5 km to go, plus the descent on the other side, which means I'll have to make a diversion. You'd wait too long, go on and we'll see you at Tarcento\u00ab.
    It's true that these 5 km will take me... a while (as Bourvil would have said).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    On the way up I heard my brand new bike moaning, \u00bbIt had to be that madman who bought me! If only I'd been able to find a cyclist who'd ride 60 km on a Sunday and then let me rest all week!\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n

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    I return to the valley on the other side. It's less difficult, but well worth the diversions, and there's a lovely ski resort. From the summit, I have around 80 km to go to Tarcento.
    I cross the very wide Tagliamento several times. It must be huge when the snow melts.
    I walk along the pretty Lagodi Cjaseria Muarta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Descent into the valley towards Sustrio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Lago di Cavazzo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    I'm really hungry this evening... What could be more normal after such an effort and having skipped a meal!<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Jour 11 : <\/em>From Tarcento to Trieste.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    127 km – 800 m de den+, 5 cols au-dessus de Trieste<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    We leave Tarcento, sheltered by the mountains, in glorious sunshine.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    I found the perfect street for Jean Marc and Bruno, who are very fond of cakes. For me, it will be steak. And we can all go for a birra together.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Il en fallait bien une ! Crevaison apr\u00e8s 14 km et \u00e0 un peu plus de 100 km de l’arriv\u00e9e finale. Juste avant de traverser Buttrio, la citt\u00e0 del vino.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Buttrio wine estate<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    We then pass by one hell of a Bed & Breakfast ... unless it's a hell of a Bed & Breakfast ... <\/p>\n\n\n

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    Apr\u00e8s 80 km, nous nous rapprochons de Trieste et les panneaux deviennent bilingues : italien et slov\u00e8ne.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    \u00c7a y est, l’Adriatique est en vue !<\/p>\n\n\n

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    l’Adriatique !!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    Nous sommes \u00e0 Trieste, et ce apr\u00e8s 1300 km et 23200 m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9. Nous avons franchi 36 cols dont 18 \u00e0 une altitude sup\u00e9rieure \u00e0 2000 m. Tout ceci, en 10 \u00e9tapes plus 1 jour de \u00ab\u00a0repos\u00a0\u00bb. Beaucoup (trop) de pluie, voire de gr\u00eale, mais ce sont les al\u00e9as des voyages itin\u00e9rants. Lorsque l’on a un v\u00e9hicule accompagnateur, il faut juste savoir r\u00e9sister et ne pas l’emprunter …<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Le phare de la Victoire, sur le poggio di Gretta est visible de loin. C’est normal puisqu’il nous domine du haut de ses 68 m\u00e8tres. Le marin, quant \u00e0 lui, mesure 8 m 60. Le phare comm\u00e9more le rattachement de Trieste \u00e0 l’Italie et c\u00e9l\u00e8bre les marins soldats morts en mer lors de la premi\u00e8re guerre mondiale.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    L’objectif \u00e9tant rempli, nous pourrions rallier notre h\u00f4tel. Mais, un Centcoliste restant un Centcoliste, et \u00e0 fortiori deux, nous partons donc en chercher cinq sur les hauteurs de Trieste. Sur les hauteurs n’est pas une locution erron\u00e9e. En effet, le premier col s’apparente \u00e0 un petit Zoncolan. Plusieurs passages \u00e0 20 % nous y m\u00e8nent.
    The climb continues, giving us great views of the town and the sea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    la sella di Opicina ne culmine qu’\u00e0 344 m mais son acc\u00e8s est vraiment tr\u00e8s pentu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    To the sella di Trebiciano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Trieste from the heights<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Once we'd crossed the 5 passes, and after getting a bit lost on some huge bypasses, we could finally get back to the apartment hotel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    There was a dantesque storm in Trieste yesterday. As a result, the bike room in the residence where we were staying was inaccessible. Without a second thought, the manager gave us access to an extra room. Our bikes will be safe there for these 2 days and 2 nights. .
    A looped Thonon Trieste justifies a birra<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Dinner in a trattoria and a stroll around Trieste, a beautiful city. Its status as a port and its geographical location have contributed to its wealth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Castello di San Guisto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Cattedrale di San Guisto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Aujourd’hui, 127 km, D 800 et 5 cols italiens au-dessus de Trieste. Altitudes modestes mais avec un d\u00e9part \u00e0 la c\u00f4te z\u00e9ro. Pas facile …
    In any case, winter is finally over and we're back to pleasant temperatures.

    \ud83d\ude0a\ud83c\udf89\ud83d\udc4dTHONON- TRIESTE C’EST FAIT !!\ud83d\ude0a\ud83c\udf89\ud83d\udc4d
    Depuis Thonon, 1300 km, D 23500 et 36 cols dont 18 \u00ab\u00a02000\u00a0\u00bb.
    Un beau challenge !! Un voyage itin\u00e9rant, certes difficile mais offrant des paysages magnifiques. Nous avons travers\u00e9 des lieux de cultures tr\u00e8s diff\u00e9rentes, m\u00eame au sein d’un m\u00eame pays. Et nous avons pu rencontrer des personnes, pour la plupart, agr\u00e9ables et accueillantes.
    As we're staying in Trieste for two nights, tomorrow we'll be doing a bit of sightseeing. But that will be in the afternoon.
    In the morning, Slovenia is too close for us to drag the wheels of our bikes. <\/p>\n\n\n

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    (more)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    \u00c9tape suivante : \u00e9pilogue<\/strong><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

    Jour 12 : <\/em>morning cycling in Slovenia and afternoon visit to Trieste<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Thonon - Trieste may have come to an end, but the day following our arrival in port was a busy one nonetheless...
    Pendant que Jean Marc se prom\u00e8ne dans Trieste en bus, Bruno et moi occupons notre matin\u00e9e par une petite vir\u00e9e \u00e0 v\u00e9lo dans la Slov\u00e9nie voisine. La fronti\u00e8re est vraiment trop proche pour que nous n’allions pas mettre nos roues dans un nouveau pays. Cerise sur le g\u00e2teau, il y a des cols !! Comme je l’ai \u00e9crit pr\u00e9c\u00e9demment, Trieste est une grande ville. Ce sont soit l’autoroute soit de grands axes qui les relient au pays voisin. Nous faisons donc l’approche en voiture. 
    As soon as we cross the border, the terrain becomes quite rugged. We pass through magnificent vineyards that take up almost the entire area. Like any wine-growing region, the area seems to be rich. The houses are imposing and well-built.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Skopo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    The main attraction of the first pass we crossed was that it was Slovenian. It won't leave me with any lasting memories ...<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Preval Prevolec (SL-0333), whose only interest lies in being our first Slovenian pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    In contrast, the second is much more beautiful and pleasant. A beautiful road winds and climbs through the vineyards. At the top, you'll find a hint of Tuscany. Except for the superb rocky bar looming on the horizon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Goski Preval (SL-0233)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Since Goski Preval<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    At the Goski Preval, an air of Tuscany<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Podnanos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Nous sommes dans la r\u00e9gion viticole de production du Kras Teran. Le Teran est un c\u00e9page propre aux r\u00e9gions de Kast, en Slov\u00e9nie, et de Karst en Italie. Il produit un vin aux saveurs intenses. Intense comme le fut notre aventure !<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Teran is a grape variety native to the Kast (Slovenia) and Karts (Italy) regions.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

    Note that in Slovenia, cyclists are more square than in France. And the same goes for cows, deer and even children...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Bilan de la matin\u00e9e : 54 km D 900 et mes deux premiers cols slov\u00e8nes.
    <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Back to Sezana<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    We meet up with Jean Marc, and after lunch we head off to visit the Castello di Miramare. It was built between 1856 and 1860 for Maximilian of Hasbourg Lorraine Archduke of Austria (and future Emperor of Mexico) and his wife Charlotte of Belgium. Its name is inspired by the Spanish \u00bbmira mar\u00bb.
    Le magnifique parc se suffisant \u00e0 lui-m\u00eame, nous y passons une partie de l’apr\u00e8s-midi. Il est immense et nous y parcourons 7 km.<\/p>\n\n\n

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    Afternoon walk in Miramare<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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    Back at the residence, we barely had time to catch our breath before heading back to the centre of Trieste for a stroll and a bite to eat.
    Beautiful buildings line our route to Piazza dell'Unita d'Italia<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Piazza dell'Unita d'Italia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


    Progress is slowed by a \u00abbirra\u00bb stop, another for lunch and the last for a \u00abGelatti\u00ab stop.
    Encore 7 km de parcourus lors de cette balade. Comme je l’ai \u00e9crit ci-dessus, une journ\u00e9e bien remplie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Arrivederci Trieste !!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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    Si Trieste est riche, c’est donc en partie gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 son port. La ville a \u00e9t\u00e9 pendant tr\u00e8s longtemps la porte d’entr\u00e9e de tout le caf\u00e9 consomm\u00e9 en Italie. Et, si l’Italie est le pays du caf\u00e9, Trieste en est la capitale. Les Triestins en consommant deux fois plus que le reste du pays. Il se d\u00e9cline sous diff\u00e9rentes formes. Le Capo in B \u00e9tant la sp\u00e9cialit\u00e9 de la ville. Capo pour cappuccino et B pour bicchiere (verre). C’est donc un cappuccino dans un verre. Mais pas que … C’est plus doux qu’un cappuccino et se rapproche beaucoup d’un macchiato. Sans en \u00eatre un … Ah, nuances et subtilit\u00e9s des diff\u00e9rents \u00ab\u00a0mod\u00e8les\u00a0\u00bb. Aussi subtil que les ar\u00f4mes dudit caf\u00e9 !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Tomorrow, back to Castelnaudary, P\u00e9chabou and L\u00e9guevin, in that order.
    As the route is long, there will be two stages with an overnight stop in Aix en Provence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    <\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Apr\u00e8s le r\u00e9cit de Jean-Marc Lef\u00e8vre et celui de Philippe Chazottier c’est au tour de Fred Singla de nous raconter son aventure. Une magnifique randonn\u00e9e \u00e0 v\u00e9lo, con\u00e7ue par Georges Rossini, qui joint le lac L\u00e9man \u00e0 l’Adriatique en franchissant de nombreux cols. Cliquer sur le titre de l’\u00e9tape sous l’image pour voyager avec Fred […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5112,"featured_media":91787,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[82,129],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-91155","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyages","category-gazette"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nRandonn\u00e9e \u00e0 v\u00e9lo du lac L\u00e9man \u00e0 l'Adriatique - Club des Cent Cols<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Plongez dans l'aventure d'une randonn\u00e9e \u00e0 v\u00e9lo inoubliable, reliant le lac L\u00e9man \u00e0 Trieste par de grands cols des Alpes.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/centcols.org\/en\/thonon-trieste-fred-singla-2025\/\" \/>\n<link rel=\"next\" href=\"https:\/\/centcols.org\/thonon-trieste-fred-singla-2025\/2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Randonn\u00e9e \u00e0 v\u00e9lo du lac L\u00e9man \u00e0 l'Adriatique - 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