Thonon Trieste: Fred Singla cc 5173
Day 10 : From Vigo-di-Cadore to Tarcento + LE Zoncolan!
148 km - 2800 m of den+, 7 passes including the impressive and unforgettable Zoncolan
As he does every morning, Jean Marc watches us set off. Today we started off dry, but it started raining very quickly. On the other hand, it was foggy from the start. I am having fun taking the same photo of Vigo di Cadore as the one I took yesterday on our arrival. I'm going to put them side by side in my next album.
At Laggio di Cadore, I have time to take photos of these isards, unlike the two hinds that I will see later. They'll be much quicker than me.
Editor's note: isard, isard...bisard, bizarre! We're in the Alps, so those are chamois on the front. But what do you want? Once a Pyrenean, always a Pyrenean! So Fred has seen some isards.
The first ascent, of 19 km, was made in the rain. It was a difficult but very beautiful climb that we didn't enjoy because of the fog.
We are in the middle of immense forests where forestry is well developed. The road through them is absolutely deserted.
Sella di Razzo is a small, almost abandoned ski resort.
A long descent through the fir trees on a road badly damaged by the winter.
We're leaving the Dolomites and their characteristic peaks behind.
We pass through some pretty, very isolated villages. We're in the Val Pésarina, the Valle del Tempo.
While Bruno and Jean-Marc have a nice meal, I take 3 bars and 2 compotes and set off to tackle the Sella del Monte Zoncolan, despite the already long and steep route.
Unconsciousness? Insanity? Challenge? Passion?
I hadn't really planned it, but I'd made a note of the fact that we'd be passing close by. Not wanting to impose anything on Bruno and Jean-Marc, I left it to chance. I had noted the day before that, given the distances involved, it was a safe bet that the restaurant break would be near Comeglians, almost at the foot of the climb. Bingo! As luck would have it, Jean-Marc called me to say «I've stopped off at Comeglians and I think I've found a nice restaurant». The opportunity was just too good... I left my companions well settled and set off on an ascent of anthology...
The last 8 km are formidable. They oscillate between 16 and 24 %. And the first few kilometres are no picnic either!
The Zoncolan is reputed to be the hardest cycling climb in Europe. Only Spain's Angliru can compare.
As my route to Trieste passes at the foot of the road, it would have been a shame not to do it...
When Bruno calls me to say «We're just finishing the tiramisu, then we'll have coffee. Should we wait for you to join us? All I can say is, »Oh no, I've still got 5 km to go, plus the descent on the other side, which means I'll have to make a diversion. You'd wait too long, go on and we'll see you at Tarcento«.
It's true that these 5 km will take me... a while (as Bourvil would have said).
On the way up I heard my brand new bike moaning, »It had to be that madman who bought me! If only I'd been able to find a cyclist who'd ride 60 km on a Sunday and then let me rest all week!»
I return to the valley on the other side. It's less difficult, but well worth the diversions, and there's a lovely ski resort. From the summit, I have around 80 km to go to Tarcento.
I cross the very wide Tagliamento several times. It must be huge when the snow melts.
I walk along the pretty Lagodi Cjaseria Muarta.
I'm really hungry this evening... What could be more normal after such an effort and having skipped a meal!
Français
English (UK)
Italiano
Hello Fred
We don't really know each other, but I've been following your exploits for some time now and look forward to reading your reports in this section.
Thank you in advance!
with kind regards
Hello Jacques,
Thanks for your comment.
And let's not forget to give credit where credit is due!
Although the journey, the photos and the texts are all mine, this section only exists thanks to Régis Paraz. He did all the layout. And it's a hell of a job.
So, well done to him!
Best regards.
Fred
This third stage is certainly the most beautiful of the trip.
When I was there, I came across the mail coach!!!!!!!!
Polo
Polo, you're talking about a time that people under the age of 30 couldn't possibly have known.
And yes, I have it on good authority (you 😉 ) that you did that beautiful walk in 1995.
Best regards.
Fred
Thanks Fred,
Thanks to this 25-year friendship, I've been able to enjoy some great rides and unique cycling holidays, as well as being a member of the hundred passes club.
See you soon for more adventures.
Bruno cc7753
Moderator's note: Bruno, who has just left this comment, is one of Fred's two team-mates. Here he discovers the illustrated story of their adventure.
And there'll be plenty more adventures to come, including hikes, breaks and trips!
My list of projects is long!
Fred
Ola,
Thank you for these beautiful photos and for taking us on a journey.
A few years ago, I had the opportunity to start the GR5, which crosses the Alps from Saint Gingolph on the shores of Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean. And I really enjoyed crossing the Chablais massif.
Good luck for the next stage and hope the weather holds out.
Kisses
christophe
Salut le Ch'nord,
More tomorrow ...
So I won't reveal anything.
Kisses.
Adishatz.
Fred
Magnificent photos and quite a walk. It looks like the weather is on your side. Enjoy it. I know a bit about the lakes region of northern Italy having stayed there last year, it's a splendid place with incredible scenery and beautiful villages. There are some beautiful buildings all along the shores of the lakes and very nice views of the surrounding mountains.
All the best.
kisses
Christophe
Well done
and those who have already done so will be remembered:
https://www.centcols.org/voyages/thonon-trieste/thonon-trieste.htm
https://www.centcols.org/revues/27/A27042.htm
https://centcols.org/trieste-thonon-traversee-de-larc-alpin-a-velo/
And good luck to those who are going to make it 🙂
Thank you Fred for this magnificent report, which brings back some wonderful memories.
I've done this walk twice, in 2003 and 2005.
In June 2005 I organised this ride for my Club GAZELEC in Tours. We were 30 cyclists accompanied by a coach that carried our gear from stage to stage.
The week before our visit, the stage over the Passo Foscagno was disrupted by bad weather.
It was very cold in the Dolomites.
We also had flakes on the Passo Sella.
Best regards
Hello Gérard,
I'm delighted that my little report has brought back some pleasant memories.
A group of 30 cyclists must have taken a lot of organising!
Best regards.
Fred
Thank you Fred for your superbly illustrated account of this magnificent journey.
It's a pleasure to read it, as much as to look at the photos, and your «touch» is instantly recognisable.
Well done to all three of you and thank you for sharing.
Hello Gérard,
Thanks for your comment.
It was indeed a magnificent journey. Admittedly difficult, but truly magnificent!
Best regards.
Fred
Good evening Fred,
These photos remind me of a trip I took in September 2018. It's a beautiful region that allowed me to climb passes > 2000 m and I have some lovely memories of it.
Thank you for your report.
Best regards.
Hervé.
Good evening Hervé,
I can see that many centcolists, like you, have explored this sector!
I hope that my little report will inspire some of you to take on these great passes.
The pleasure you get from it is well worth the trip.
Best regards.
Fred
Hello Fred,
It's a real pleasure to read your review, which obviously reminds me of that great trip I made in 2000...
25 years already, so many memories, evoked in a text also on line on this site.
Thonon-Trieste remains one of the great memories of my career as a cyclo-voyageur, and probably the most difficult ride I've ever done.
My advice (if you haven't already done so) is to continue the adventure with Thonon-Venice, which, in my opinion, is even more exciting!...
Not forgetting the 2 other hikes by Georges Rossini, on the French side (Thonon-Antibes, Alpine and Prealpine, the CRs are also on this site).
Unlike you, I was travelling completely autonomously, which added a certain difficulty to the ordeal. The weather was not pleasant, the climb up the Stelvio still echoes in my head, and what can I say about the descent, in the rain and sleet, with the road cut off by roadworks...
It's not easy to cycle every day, but what a pleasure, what a source of pride, to be able to say afterwards «I've crossed the whole Alpine arc on the strength of my calves».
Long live cycling! Long live the Cent cols club! Thanks to you and to Régis for his excellent work!
Good evening Jean-Marc,
During the preparation of our trip, I obviously consulted your report several times, as well as Philippe's (with whom I ride regularly several times a year). Régis had the excellent idea of highlighting your two links in the introductory sentence.
I'm planning to do Thonon Antibes to complete the Alpine arc. As one of my two companions is not available in 2026 and has another (more distant) project in 2027, it may be in 2028. Whatever the case, this is one of the «to do» items. This section is well-stocked ...
I can see that, whether it's June 2000 or August 2025, the Stelvio isn't doing anyone any favours!
Best regards.
Fred
Hello, I've been following your trip, having done Trieste - Thonon in 1993. Good for the Zoncolan, but didn't you climb 3 cime de Lavaredo?
Too bad for your rainy days.
I'm a fan of the Dolomites, which I've already visited ten times, and plan to do again next year. A superb region with mountains that are different from mine (Annecy).
Bruno (3014)
Good evening Bruno,
Choosing means giving up ...
So, not being able to do everything, I decided to skip the 3 Lavaredo peaks.
Maybe we'll go back one day, who knows?
If that's the case, I'll choose a sunny period!
For us too, the Dolomites gave us the chance to see mountains different from our own: the Pyrenees!
Best regards.
Fred
Hello to the whole team,
Well done, not forgetting Régis's super work, for this lovely ride from the comfort of our armchairs.
Fred, what an eye and sense of timing, illustrating the arrival of Thonon Trieste with the «via G. Rossini», that's class!
They say cold preserves, and from the looks on your faces, that must be true!
We look forward to hearing from you soon with new adventures.
Best regards
Alain BENOIST
Hello Alain,
Indeed, we can't say enough about the enormous amount of work done by Régis.
I was, of course, in very close contact with him during the development of the result you have on your screens. This gave me an idea of the work he had to do and the enthusiasm he put into it.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank all the volunteers who regularly work for the good of the Club des Cent Cols. And for the good of us all.
And if the cold preserves (I confirm...), so does beer!
Best regards.
Fred
Thank you, it was a pleasure to do this trip with you again some 30 years later.... We were luckier about the weather.
And thanks to Régis for the daily reminders
Centcolist friendships
Good evening Michel,
Thank you for your comment. Thonon Trieste is a great classic, and the Hundred Colists were often great adventurers, so I thought the report on this trip would bring back many memories.
Perhaps it will inspire new vocations?
Best regards.
Fred
Good evening!
Another beautiful day, the route isn't easy but it's so beautiful! Thank you for sharing this dream.
Good evening Yvette,
Thank you for your comment.
We don't know each other but we have 8 contacts in common on Strava. All 100 Colistes, of course!
Best regards.
Fred
Hi Fred. It's true we don't know each other, but I often hear about you through the 100 cols family, so I can see all your shared hikes. Which is really nice.
Thank you
Yvette
I'm going to be nostalgic not to be able to follow your magnificent journey every day after this end, CC friends. But you've earned it! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Well done to the 2 of you who braved the bad weather and conquered the peaks of the Dolomites. It's true, it's magnificent (in good weather). Beautiful images, clear and succinct comments (in the manner of Maitre Régis)!
Congratulations again and thanks also to Jean Marc, not forgetting my friend «Modachul'vélo» for his participation.
Friendly 100 collar, Skinny Cat 4113.
Good evening Gilbert,
Thanks for your comments.
And yes, it's over! All good things must come to an end ...
Fortunately, I still have the photos, from which I've made a printed book, the Cent Cols website and lots of memories in my head.
And there are still so many places to explore and things to do ...
Best regards.
Fred
Hello
Well done for this wonderful report, which brought back some very happy memories.
Wonderful photos!!!
Daniel Beaujoin
cc 0396
Hello Daniel,
Thanks for your comments.
I'm happy to have, in a small way, revived many memories for many Cent Cols.
Best regards.
Fred
Hello Fred,
I'm 27 years younger! 7308
Unforgettable! What's more, your report is so well done.
I've only got one binder left with photos that are starting to yellow, so I'm going to store yours somewhere.
Well done and thank you for sharing.
yc7308
if I find your e-mail again I'll send you a few photos ...
Good evening Yves,
I'm afraid my answer isn't very original, but thank you very much for your comments!
What's more, exchanging ideas via the club website is very pleasant and constructive.
Best regards.
Fred