Thonon Trieste: Fred Singla cc 5173
Day 4: de Campodolcino in Livigno
106 km - 2455 m of den+, 3 passes including 2 > 2000
It was raining this morning when we had breakfast. But by the time we set off, the rain has stopped and will be absent all day.
On a wet road, the 10 km descent is approached carefully.
800 m downhill later, we're in Chiavenna. There's a vending machine where we can buy milk, yoghurt and cheese. But we don't need them, having had a great breakfast at the hotel...
We soon left Italy and crossed back into Switzerland. We come across a few cows. What would Switzerland be without its cows! And yet we saw very few of them. In fact, there are a lot more ... crazy bikers.


We quickly attacked the magnificent Passo de Maloja, which I automatically put in my top 10. It's so beautiful!





At the end of the climb, we reach a superb high plateau. It begins with a huge lake and ends 16 km further on in Saint Moritz.
We are in the Engandine valley between the Maloja and Bernina passes. In Saint Moritz is the Grand Hôtel des Bains ... where I have not booked.


Then comes the ascent of the Passo del Bernina, the highest pass in the Swiss Alps, open all year round. Here we pass the Bernina Express, which links Chur (Graubünden) to Tirano (Lombardy) via 195 bridges and 55 tunnels. It's surprising to see a train at this altitude that isn't rack-and-pinion. Maximum gradient of 7%, otherwise it won't go through! Railway standard obligatory.
Before reaching the pass, we pass a beautiful lake. And we're lucky enough to come across the Bernina Express.





On the way down the Bernina, a few more cows. Some have square bells, others round.
We still have to climb back up to Forcala di Livigno, at 2313 m, in 3 km at an average speed of 9%. We pass a lot of fuel tankers. We'll understand why when we learn that Livigno is a free zone. And that's where we'll be filling up with diesel at €1.15 a litre. Compared with €1.60 everywhere else in Italy.
At the end of a long descent, we arrive in Livigno, where there must be strict town planning regulations. Most of the flowers on the balconies are identical in colour.



Livignio is therefore a free zone, thanks to its isolation. So there's very little tax ... and lots of tourists.
We're enjoying the comfort of our gîte after 106 km, 2455 m of ascent and 3 magnificent passes, including 2 "2000".




Hello Fred
We don't really know each other, but I've been following your exploits for some time now and look forward to reading your reports in this section.
Thank you in advance!
with kind regards
Hello Jacques,
Thanks for your comment.
And let's not forget to give credit where credit is due!
Although the journey, the photos and the texts are all mine, this section only exists thanks to Régis Paraz. He did all the layout. And it's a hell of a job.
So, well done to him!
Best regards.
Fred
This third stage is certainly the most beautiful of the trip.
When I was there, I came across the mail coach!!!!!!!!
Polo
Polo, you're talking about a time that people under the age of 30 couldn't possibly have known.
And yes, I have it on good authority (you 😉 ) that you did that beautiful walk in 1995.
Best regards.
Fred
Thanks Fred,
Thanks to this 25-year friendship, I've been able to enjoy some great rides and unique cycling holidays, as well as being a member of the hundred passes club.
See you soon for more adventures.
Bruno cc7753
Moderator's note: Bruno, who has just left this comment, is one of Fred's two team-mates. Here he discovers the illustrated story of their adventure.
And there'll be plenty more adventures to come, including hikes, breaks and trips!
My list of projects is long!
Fred
Ola,
Thank you for these beautiful photos and for taking us on a journey.
A few years ago, I had the opportunity to start the GR5, which crosses the Alps from Saint Gingolph on the shores of Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean. And I really enjoyed crossing the Chablais massif.
Good luck for the next stage and hope the weather holds out.
Kisses
christophe
Salut le Ch'nord,
More tomorrow ...
So I won't reveal anything.
Kisses.
Adishatz.
Fred
Magnificent photos and quite a walk. It looks like the weather is on your side. Enjoy it. I know a bit about the lakes region of northern Italy having stayed there last year, it's a splendid place with incredible scenery and beautiful villages. There are some beautiful buildings all along the shores of the lakes and very nice views of the surrounding mountains.
All the best.
kisses
Christophe
Well done
and those who have already done so will be remembered:
https://www.centcols.org/voyages/thonon-trieste/thonon-trieste.htm
https://www.centcols.org/revues/27/A27042.htm
https://centcols.org/trieste-thonon-traversee-de-larc-alpin-a-velo/
And good luck to those who are going to make it 🙂
Thank you Fred for this magnificent report, which brings back some wonderful memories.
I've done this walk twice, in 2003 and 2005.
In June 2005 I organised this ride for my Club GAZELEC in Tours. We were 30 cyclists accompanied by a coach that carried our gear from stage to stage.
The week before our visit, the stage over the Passo Foscagno was disrupted by bad weather.
It was very cold in the Dolomites.
We also had flakes on the Passo Sella.
Best regards
Hello Gérard,
I'm delighted that my little report has brought back some pleasant memories.
A group of 30 cyclists must have taken a lot of organising!
Best regards.
Fred
Thank you Fred for your superbly illustrated account of this magnificent journey.
It's a pleasure to read it, as much as to look at the photos, and your «touch» is instantly recognisable.
Well done to all three of you and thank you for sharing.
Hello Gérard,
Thanks for your comment.
It was indeed a magnificent journey. Admittedly difficult, but truly magnificent!
Best regards.
Fred
Good evening Fred,
These photos remind me of a trip I took in September 2018. It's a beautiful region that allowed me to climb passes > 2000 m and I have some lovely memories of it.
Thank you for your report.
Best regards.
Hervé.
Good evening Hervé,
I can see that many centcolists, like you, have explored this sector!
I hope that my little report will inspire some of you to take on these great passes.
The pleasure you get from it is well worth the trip.
Best regards.
Fred
Hello Fred,
It's a real pleasure to read your review, which obviously reminds me of that great trip I made in 2000...
25 years already, so many memories, evoked in a text also on line on this site.
Thonon-Trieste remains one of the great memories of my career as a cyclo-voyageur, and probably the most difficult ride I've ever done.
My advice (if you haven't already done so) is to continue the adventure with Thonon-Venice, which, in my opinion, is even more exciting!...
Not forgetting the 2 other hikes by Georges Rossini, on the French side (Thonon-Antibes, Alpine and Prealpine, the CRs are also on this site).
Unlike you, I was travelling completely autonomously, which added a certain difficulty to the ordeal. The weather was not pleasant, the climb up the Stelvio still echoes in my head, and what can I say about the descent, in the rain and sleet, with the road cut off by roadworks...
It's not easy to cycle every day, but what a pleasure, what a source of pride, to be able to say afterwards «I've crossed the whole Alpine arc on the strength of my calves».
Long live cycling! Long live the Cent cols club! Thanks to you and to Régis for his excellent work!
Good evening Jean-Marc,
During the preparation of our trip, I obviously consulted your report several times, as well as Philippe's (with whom I ride regularly several times a year). Régis had the excellent idea of highlighting your two links in the introductory sentence.
I'm planning to do Thonon Antibes to complete the Alpine arc. As one of my two companions is not available in 2026 and has another (more distant) project in 2027, it may be in 2028. Whatever the case, this is one of the «to do» items. This section is well-stocked ...
I can see that, whether it's June 2000 or August 2025, the Stelvio isn't doing anyone any favours!
Best regards.
Fred
Hello, I've been following your trip, having done Trieste - Thonon in 1993. Good for the Zoncolan, but didn't you climb 3 cime de Lavaredo?
Too bad for your rainy days.
I'm a fan of the Dolomites, which I've already visited ten times, and plan to do again next year. A superb region with mountains that are different from mine (Annecy).
Bruno (3014)
Good evening Bruno,
Choosing means giving up ...
So, not being able to do everything, I decided to skip the 3 Lavaredo peaks.
Maybe we'll go back one day, who knows?
If that's the case, I'll choose a sunny period!
For us too, the Dolomites gave us the chance to see mountains different from our own: the Pyrenees!
Best regards.
Fred
Hello to the whole team,
Well done, not forgetting Régis's super work, for this lovely ride from the comfort of our armchairs.
Fred, what an eye and sense of timing, illustrating the arrival of Thonon Trieste with the «via G. Rossini», that's class!
They say cold preserves, and from the looks on your faces, that must be true!
We look forward to hearing from you soon with new adventures.
Best regards
Alain BENOIST
Hello Alain,
Indeed, we can't say enough about the enormous amount of work done by Régis.
I was, of course, in very close contact with him during the development of the result you have on your screens. This gave me an idea of the work he had to do and the enthusiasm he put into it.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank all the volunteers who regularly work for the good of the Club des Cent Cols. And for the good of us all.
And if the cold preserves (I confirm...), so does beer!
Best regards.
Fred
Thank you, it was a pleasure to do this trip with you again some 30 years later.... We were luckier about the weather.
And thanks to Régis for the daily reminders
Centcolist friendships
Good evening Michel,
Thank you for your comment. Thonon Trieste is a great classic, and the Hundred Colists were often great adventurers, so I thought the report on this trip would bring back many memories.
Perhaps it will inspire new vocations?
Best regards.
Fred
Good evening!
Another beautiful day, the route isn't easy but it's so beautiful! Thank you for sharing this dream.
Good evening Yvette,
Thank you for your comment.
We don't know each other but we have 8 contacts in common on Strava. All 100 Colistes, of course!
Best regards.
Fred
Hi Fred. It's true we don't know each other, but I often hear about you through the 100 cols family, so I can see all your shared hikes. Which is really nice.
Thank you
Yvette
I'm going to be nostalgic not to be able to follow your magnificent journey every day after this end, CC friends. But you've earned it! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Well done to the 2 of you who braved the bad weather and conquered the peaks of the Dolomites. It's true, it's magnificent (in good weather). Beautiful images, clear and succinct comments (in the manner of Maitre Régis)!
Congratulations again and thanks also to Jean Marc, not forgetting my friend «Modachul'vélo» for his participation.
Friendly 100 collar, Skinny Cat 4113.
Good evening Gilbert,
Thanks for your comments.
And yes, it's over! All good things must come to an end ...
Fortunately, I still have the photos, from which I've made a printed book, the Cent Cols website and lots of memories in my head.
And there are still so many places to explore and things to do ...
Best regards.
Fred
Hello
Well done for this wonderful report, which brought back some very happy memories.
Wonderful photos!!!
Daniel Beaujoin
cc 0396
Hello Daniel,
Thanks for your comments.
I'm happy to have, in a small way, revived many memories for many Cent Cols.
Best regards.
Fred
Hello Fred,
I'm 27 years younger! 7308
Unforgettable! What's more, your report is so well done.
I've only got one binder left with photos that are starting to yellow, so I'm going to store yours somewhere.
Well done and thank you for sharing.
yc7308
if I find your e-mail again I'll send you a few photos ...
Good evening Yves,
I'm afraid my answer isn't very original, but thank you very much for your comments!
What's more, exchanging ideas via the club website is very pleasant and constructive.
Best regards.
Fred