Trieste - Thonon: crossing the Alps by bike ( Philippe Chazottier CC 5178)
By Philippe Chazottier cc 5178
Introduction
Here's a great route, mostly at altitude, that I've been wanting to do for some time: Thonon to Trieste, crossing part of the Alps.
Having bought a Berthoud hiker for my 50th birthday last year, I wasn't able to complete this expedition in 2008, so I had to make do with the permanent '100 passes on the Atlantic-Mediterranean divide' hike to familiarise myself with the 'arms and luggage' hike.
The biggest problem with this destination was the following: how do you get back from Trieste if you do the most commonly travelled version of the route? I decided to solve the problem by reversing the direction of the route: I would do the most difficult and stressful part of the journey straight away, i.e. I would go straight to the start, but from Trieste.
Two solutions: take the night train from Dijon at midnight to arrive in Venice at 9.20am the next day, or fly to Venice from Lyon Saint-Exupéry. I'm not keen on taking the train, especially as loading the bike would be a problem. Even though Robert de Rudder, a member of the Cent Cols club, had given me a tip for boarding without too many problems ("know how to put your bike at the back of the last carriage"), I preferred the plane: only 1h20. All I had to do was put my bike in a cardboard box that I'd picked up at a bike shop: I didn't even have to dismantle the mudguards and luggage rack, they'd just fit.
Of course, I took the opportunity to book a day to visit Venice: a must.
On Saturday morning, all I had to do was take the regional train to Trieste, about 130 km away. As is the case every time I take the train (once every 4 or 5 years!), it arrives late, and it's 20 minutes late that it arrives at Trieste Centrale station.
1ᵉʳᵉ stage: Trieste - Arta Terme
Saturday 22 August - 150 km, 1100 m ascent
Without further ado, it's past 10am and there's a long stage ahead. I got ready to leave, went into the first shop I came across, a hairdresser, to get my route card stamped and then set off. For the record, at the compulsory checkpoint in Udine, 70 km further on in the early afternoon, I was only able to get my card stamped by a hairdresser, who didn't understand a word of the film, as my Italian was more than rudimentary, but who issued me with the famous sesame!
The first 25 kilometres are on the main road, with views of the Adriatic all along the way and the enchanting scent of clerodendron flowers. The route then passes over the first small pass on the route: the Sella di Iamianno, culminating at a dizzying 68m! In view of the day's important stage, I decided to change my route and skip Gorizia, instead descending the pass to Udine via the plain, taking advantage of the reduced traffic on the main road linking the capital of Friuli and, above all, the absence of heavy goods vehicles on Saturday. It's certainly not the best thing I've done: the route, which is perhaps a little shorter, passes through some major towns, the straights are monotonous and the heat, 36°C in Pordenone, is hard to bear and requires a few 'can-chasing' stops. Fortunately, as the weather forecast had predicted, the skies began to cloud over and the arrival in Udine coincided with a drop in temperatures.
After leaving this well-ordered town, the first difficulties awaited me a little further on: a modest one with the Passo di Monte Crocce (267 m), then after a passage on a main road with heavy traffic, the Sella di Interneppo (315 m), with a few drops of rain at the start of the latter. It's a very short pass, but at the first bend you can see the fresco of Italian cycling's "campionissimi" painted on the retaining wall: from Bottecchia to Pantani, via Coppi and Moser, they're all depicted in action. Coppi's face is strikingly realistic! I took the liberty of stopping a motorist to have my photo taken in front of the wall in question. Don't you think? I'm the only one who doesn't speak Italian! Another reason, you say? No, really, I can't think of one!
After the plain between Trieste and Udine, the relief of the Julian Alps begins to take shape on the horizon and a wall looms in the distance: we'll have plenty of time to see tomorrow!
Finally, I arrived in Tolmezzo at around 5pm and, just as I thought I'd find a hotel in the town centre, I was directed to an establishment on the opposite side of the road from where I'd found myself by chance at the start of the Sella Marcillà. Despite a threatening thunderstorm, I decided to extend my stage to Arta Terme, a health resort where I could easily find accommodation. Just thirteen more kilometres, but as a "light formality", the ascent of this 776 m high pass, with percentages between 12 and 14% over the first 2 km.
As we reached the pass, the rain began to fall lightly, and we made our way carefully down to Zuglio, arriving at our destination at the first hotel on the outskirts of town.
2ᵉ stage: Arta Terme - Padola
Sunday 23 August - 89 km, 2500 m ascent
In the morning, the clouds of the previous day had disappeared and I began to climb northwards up the valley. I didn't have long to wait to warm up my legs: after 7 km, I attacked the first pass of the day, the Sella Valcalda (959 m), which took me from 442 to 959 m in 8 km, but with the first 2 km along the gently sloping river. First sweat, then the switch to Comélians.
Before setting off for this pass, I passed a sign in Sutrio indicating a destination that will speak volumes to anyone interested in the Giro: Monte Zoncolan, the terrible Monte Zoncolan: I immediately turned my head away: not seen, not to be climbed!
The rest of the stage was to take me to the summit of Sella Ciampigotto (1790 m) via a beautiful valley: the Val Pesarina. The road leading first to Forcella Lavardet (1542 m) doesn't involve any major gradients - 23 km to go from 553 to 1542 m, passing through some charming Friulian villages, in particular Prato Carnico with its beautiful bell tower that leans like the Tower of Pisa!
From Forcella Lavardet, it's 3 km to Sella di Razzo, then the same distance to Sella Ciampigotto, with the reward of a plate of pasta at the pass bistro!
The first five km of the descent are very steep and winding, much harder but not as long as in the other direction. It wasn't going to be the same a little further on with the Passo di Zovo, the final pass of the stage, which I'd climbed from the other side on a previous trip to the Dolomites. It's a seven-kilometre climb to just above the altitude of the pass (1,476 m), from around 832 to 1,500 metres. It took me almost an hour to get there!
Here I was in one of the most beautiful regions of the Alps: the Dolomites. I was going to ride them for 3 days as far as Bolzano: a real wonder.
Arriving in Padola at around 4.45pm, I had plenty of time after the refreshing shower to wander around the village and admire the houses overflowing with surfinias and geraniums of all colours: a constant in this valley of the Sexto Dolomites is the abundance of flowers, both in the shops and in the houses, which are overflowing with flowers.
3ᵉ stage: Padola - Misurina
Monday 24 August - 70 km, 1700 m ascent
A short stage to a major pass and an extraordinary site: Forcella Longères and the Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
But before that, the first pass, Monte Croce di Comélico (1,636 m), presents no insurmountable difficulties, climbing gently with a few switchbacks through larch woods. On the other side is the Sexto valley, a very touristy area where the average holidaymaker goes out to buy croissants. The houses are decorated with frescoes and cascades of geraniums and surfinias tumble from the balconies. This is no longer Italy, even though I'm still there, but South Tyrol, with Austria just a cherry-stone's reach away, where German is the language used in 'first draft', if I dare say so.
Arriving at San Candido, we find ourselves back on the main road leading to Austria, fortunately a cycle route links Dobiacco in the middle of the fields.
The Val di Landro, which runs north-south, is a beautiful, wide valley where, in 13.5 km, you climb only 220 m. Two-thirds of the way up, a breakthrough in the valley gives you your first glimpse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the north face with its vertiginous walls: 600 m of sheer rock where climbers can stay for up to 3 days on the north face of the Cima Grande, which only reaches 2999 m!
Arriving in Carbonin, I take a short diversions of 6 km round trip to look for an easy pass: the Sella di Cimabianche, and get my first glimpse of the Dolomites d'Ampezzo in the distance.
Back to Carbonin where, in 6 km, I reach Misurina and its superb lake with 327 m of ascent, with short sections at 8-10%. At Misurina, I booked a room in a superb establishment and left my panniers there. I headed for the Arunzo refuge and the Forcella Longères (2330 m) via the toll road (free for cyclists). Seven km from the Misurina pass, a fairly tough 1.5 km to Lake Antorno, a short descent to the tollbooth, and then: attack! There are 3.6 km to go and just over 400 m of ascent: not exactly flat!
After a bite to eat at the refuge and stamping my route map, I spend a good two hours relaxing in the sunshine and mild temperatures, although it's a shame there's still a cloud hanging over the Tre Cime. Fortunately, it will go away a little later, so I'll be able to enjoy this sumptuous scenery for a long time to come.
4ᵉ stage: Misurina - Arabba
Tuesday 25 August - 90 km, 2550 m ascent
A stage like this one in the Giro d'Italia is a guaranteed key stage: as soon as I set off from the marvellous site of Misurina and took one last look behind my back at the Tre Cime, the 4km ascent of the Passo de Tre Croci (1,805m) allowed me to warm up. There were no clouds in the sky this morning, suggesting a superb day ahead. The air was cool this morning and we had to put on the windbreaker to head for Cortina d'Ampezzo, the former Olympic city.
Without a moment's hesitation, I headed for the Dolomite main road, in the direction of the Passo di Falzarego (2105 m), where, despite the early hour, there was a lot of traffic. Fortunately, before reaching the summit of this pass, the route takes a "slight" diversions and, 5 km above Cortina, I turned left towards the Passo di Giau (2233 m), the first pass above 2000 m for the day. It was a pleasant surprise: it wasn't as hard as I'd feared and the scenery was magnificent. I found the climb less hard than on the other side, which I'd already climbed on a light bike 4 or 5 years ago, and the valley more open, with more views. Arriving at the summit gave me the opportunity to get my route card validated and to have a chat with a cyclist who had overtaken me on the climb.
A cautious, contemplative descent, a climb up to Colle Santa Lucia and then on to the second big climb of the day, the Passo di Valparola (2192 m), with the Passo di Falzarego as a stepping stone.
A quick stop at La Villa, in the Val Badia, a glance at the weather report in Corvara, optimistic until Friday (so much the better, that's the day I'll be crossing the Stelvio), the high point of the trip. All that's left is the final pass of the day, the Passo di Capolongo (1875 m), and the descent to Arabba, where the first hotel I came across was the right one.
5ᵉ stage: Arabba - Passo della Mendola
Wednesday 26 August - 120 km, 2500 m ascent
Two big sections at the start from Arabba: the Passo di Pordoi (2239 m): 9 km with very short bends at the start of the climb, a gradient rarely exceeding 7-8%. When I got to the top, I was trying to stop to get my route card stamped when I put my front wheel in a rainwater drain. The result: a fall, fortunately not serious, and a puncture. It was a blunder I could have done without, as I'd hoped that after a good night's sleep at the Hotel Olympia, the climb up Pordoi would have woken me up! Another minor disappointment was that the monument to Fausto Coppi is being renovated and is surrounded by construction barriers: I'll have to wait to see the stele dedicated to him at the top of the Stelvio.
A six-kilometre descent and, just as dry, a beautiful ascent to the Passo di Sella (2244 m), a pass I'd also climbed before: the photo of the last few hairpin bends, with the Sasso Lungo in the background, now adorns the background of my computer screen. From the top of this pass, the view is sumptuous: the Marmolada to the south-east and its glacier, the only eternal snow in the Dolomites, the Sasso Lungo to the north-west and, to the east, the enormous tabular mass of the Gruppo di Sella.
A long descent takes me into the Val di Gardena, which is very crowded with tourists. On the way through Selva di Val Gardena, there's a crowd: at the top of a superb painted house, a merry-go-round comes to life with four characters and a chime that makes a hell of a racket: it's exactly 11 o'clock and the tourist crowds are there!
As I left the village of Ortisei, I found the road leading up to the Passo di Pinei, and here I was in for a big surprise, as the roadmap announced a 200m difference in altitude between the town and the pass for a 5.6km climb. In front of my wheels, however, was a gradient of 8 or 9% with sections of 12 or even 15%. There must be a mistake in the starting altitude.
Fortunately, the scenery is as beautiful as ever and I have plenty of time to admire it! The descent crosses the Surio and Sciliar plateaus, revealing a lush green landscape and a relief much less steep than the high dolomitic valleys.
After a stop for a snack on the panoramic terrace of a gasthof, I resume my descent into the Isarco valley and find myself back on the main road to Bolzano. Fortunately, there's a cycle route to keep me out of the traffic, with even a 500m-long illuminated tunnel! Arriving in Bolzano, I found the smell of clerodendrons again, but, no doubt misunderstanding the explanations of a local cyclist, I kept to the cycle paths and found myself on the dyke along the Adige, heading for Trento. Having gone too far to turn back, I decide to continue through the apple fields where the harvest has begun, until I can find a road that will take me back to the Passo della Mendola (1363 m). I reached it, but to get to Caldaro on the wine route, I had to climb the 3 km of a small pass with a gradient of no less than 9-10%, with sections approaching 15%.
At the top, there's a beautiful panorama of Lake Caldaro, then a climb back up to the village and the junction with the SP 42, which leads in 14 km on a steady slope at 5-6% to the summit of the Passo della Mendola.
6ᵉ stage: Passo della Mendola - Prato allo Stelvio
Thursday 27 August - 96 km, 1100 m ascent
A quieter stage awaits me today. In the Tour de France, we'd be talking about a transition stage. After a four-kilometre descent on a beautiful road, I tackle the 14-kilometre ascent of the Passo di Palade (1512 m), with just 524 m of ascent.
I then continue towards Merano. A long descent takes me back down into the Adige valley, among apple trees and green spaces still fragrant with blossom. The rest of the stage takes place between orchards. The Gala apple harvest is in full swing: the heat of the summer seems to have brought the picking forward, according to what I've read in the local German-language press in South Tyrol, which is a very Italian region after all.
In Merano, after some hesitation, I chanced upon the Radroute (cycle path) next to the racecourse. It was inaugurated this year and takes 50km to reach Prato allo Stelvio, avoiding the main road which is now closed to cyclists as far as the village of Teif. The route bypasses the lock via nine gently sloping, numbered switchbacks! It then follows the Adige, on either the left or right bank, passing through a number of villages.
I briefly lose the track at Latsch (where I have lunch) and find it again at Silandro. The asphalt ribbon is very pleasant, and I meet lots of cyclists: families, travellers, cyclosportifs. A short stretch of unpaved road (3 km) doesn't dampen my spirits. I reach Prato allo Stelvio without passing through Pontresina, where I had originally planned to spend the night.
On Saturday, the Stelvio route will be closed to cars thanks to an initiative by the National Park. So I could spend Friday looking for two passes, including the Ofenpass in Switzerland, before meeting the giant.
Tonight I'm staying at the Hotel Zentral, which is very welcoming but can only accommodate me for one night. Too bad! I'll have no regrets, as the weather forecast for Saturday is overcast.
7ᵉ stage: Prato allo Stelvio - Livigno
Friday 28 August - 87 km, 3300 m ascent
Today I'm climbing the highest point of the tour: the legendary Passo dello Stelvio. The ascent begins slowly, with the first few kilometres winding quietly up the Trafoi valley. But as you enter the village, the first of the 48 switchbacks sets the tone! There are 14 km to go, punctuated by superb views of the Ortles glacier.
The road is in excellent condition, sometimes wide, much better than I expected. Traffic is moderate. A motorcyclist in too much of a hurry to overtake me ended up lying down on a sharp bend... He would have been better off on a bike!
Around 7 km from the summit, the forest gives way to a vast panorama: you can see the road clinging to the mountain, the result of an impressive piece of civil engineering. The average gradient of 8 % is constant. One bend follows another, interspersed with long straights. The last two bends are shorter, and here I am at the top!
It's very busy here: bikers, tourists, skiers. The atmosphere is a little too commercial for my taste. Still, I take a photo of the stele dedicated to Fausto Coppi, then escape the fairground atmosphere to descend to the Passo di Umbrail.
Three kilometres further on, I turn off towards Switzerland. I get my route card stamped in a deserted bistro on the Umbrail pass. The contrast is striking: not a single tourist, a closed customs post and the silence of the mountains.
The descent to Bormio seems steeper than the ascent. There are long tunnels, which I have to negotiate carefully. It's warmer again at the bottom, then I turn off towards the Valdidentro to climb two more passes over 2000m: the Passo di Foscagno and the Passo di Eira.
The first few kilometres are flat as far as Isolaccia. Then the road climbs for 15 km at an average speed of 6 %, on a beautiful asphalt surface. I was treated to splendid views of a snow-capped mountain, probably Monte Foscagno. Unfortunately, the scenery is regularly marred by giant billboards advertising Livigno's duty-free shops.
Arriving in Livigno, I discover a wide, overcrowded valley. The wooden chalets look fake, and tourists wander aimlessly through the streets. Three days in the Dolomites have undoubtedly made me demanding.
8ᵉ stage: Livigno - Samedan (St Moritz)
Saturday 29 August - 116 km, 1870 m ascent
In the end, I'm glad that the hotel in Prato allo Stelvio wasn't able to put me up for another night: the weather forecast was favourable, with a cloud ceiling only from 2200 m upwards.
The Passo di Livigno (2315 m) is crossed without a hitch. Little traffic: the perfume lovers are still asleep! A short, cool descent soon had me donning my windbreaker. The Passo del Bernina (2328 m) poses no problems. It's a shame that the clouds prevent me from admiring the glacier.
At the bottom of the descent, I head for Samedan (near Saint-Moritz), where I book a room and unload my panniers. It's a short stage today (37 km), so I can climb two passes over 2000 m afterwards.
I quickly set off to tackle the Albula Pass (2312 m). The first eight kilometres are steep, with many twists and turns, on a narrow road. Then the road becomes gentler in the valley. I arrive in the clouds, in a light drizzle. The bistro on the pass is closed (geschlossen). Only a few bikers pass me on the descent.
In the middle of the afternoon, I set off again for the Julier Pass (2284 m). After crossing Saint-Moritz, I start the climb from Silvaplana: 6.5 km, rather demanding at the start with a straight ramp at over 10 %. On the way back, I'll reach 75 km/h! The road is wide, suitable for heavier traffic. The headwind made things a little more difficult. The last few kilometres in the fog seemed interminable.
9ᵉ stage: Samedan - San Bernardino
Sunday 30 August - 120 km, 2525 m ascent
When we woke up, the clouds had disappeared, leaving only a little fog at the bottom of the valley. The air is cool, so a long-sleeved shirt and windbreaker are essential.
As far as Majola Pass (1815 m), the route runs alongside the lakes of the St Moritz valley, with no real change in altitude. On the other hand, the descent that follows is very steep for the first 5 kilometres, with some sharp bends, before winding through a wide valley as far as Chiavenna (Italy).
From Chiavenna (333 m), it's a 30 km climb to the Splügenpass (2113 m). The first ten kilometres are very steep, with tight switchbacks. Towards Campodolcino, the valley widens briefly, then steepens again. Poorly lit galleries add to the feeling of isolation.
6 km from the summit, the gradient eases as you approach the Spluga dam. The road runs alongside the water for 3 km as far as Monte Spluga, then becomes steeper again for the last 3 km.
On the Swiss side, the descent is a marvel: a series of perfectly regular, stacked switchbacks. A classic image from the stories of cycling touring.
Buoyed by the descent and the mild weather over the Hinterrhein valley, I continue on to the Passo del San Bernardino (2065 m). The climb proper begins after the road tunnel: 9 km, 450 m ascent, moderate gradient. Apart from the headwind, it's almost a pleasure. At the pass, the lake and the light invite you to take a break. I chat to a couple of bikers and proudly say, in my best German: "Ist nicht sehr schwer!"
The small spa town of San Bernardino, 7 km down the road, welcomes me for the night.
10ᵉ stage: San Bernardino - Santa Maria Maggiore
Monday 31 August - 115 km, 850 m ascent
It's cool but sunny. San Bernardino looks a bit old-fashioned, with a few shops closed. I'm at 1600 m, well covered. After a false flat to the Forcola, a nice level descent takes me to the Italian border.
The road crosses or runs alongside the expressway coming from the tunnel. In Bellinzona, I try to follow the cycle lanes, but scalded by my misadventure in Bolzano, I take the main road back to Locarno.
As I approached Lake Maggiore, one town followed another. At Locarno, I have trouble getting out without taking the forbidden expressway. From the pretty port of Ascona, I rejoin the SP13, which takes me to the border, then to Cannobio, where I leave the lake to enter the Val Cannobina: a beautiful, deep, little-travelled valley.
The climb starts steep with a few switchbacks, then eases off. I take a pasta break in one of the few localities, then continue the remaining 650 m of ascent, in the shade of beautiful broad-leaved trees: hornbeam, ash and chestnut. At the summit, a local cyclist shows me a stele dedicated to Marco Pantani.
The descent to Santa Maria Maggiore is rapid. I finish this stage, probably the least difficult of the hike, early.
11ᵉ stage: Santa Maria Maggiore - Sion
Tuesday 1 September - 140 km, 1750 m ascent
The last major challenge of the expedition: the Simplon Pass.
I start with a gentle 2 km climb to the Sella di Duogno, then plunge to Crevoladossola at 330 m altitude. An approach walk takes me to the valley floor, on the old pass road with its marble quarries.
I pass a cyclo-hiker on a 4-week tour of Switzerland. Then I join the Simplon route, dotted with galleries. Fortunately, there's very little traffic. I managed to get off the main road towards the villages of Varzo and Simplon Dorf, where a parallel road took me to... the roof of the galleries!
An inscription on a house reminds us that Napoleon stopped here: "Here Napoleon gave a 5-franc coin for a glass of milk". A living heritage plaque!
The wind is blowing hard at the summit. I quickly switch to the Swiss side, with more galleries. During a snack break, I meet a couple from Aube, members of the Club des 100 cols, who have come to add to Madame's list of achievements.
In Brig, the temperature rises. I set off in search of cycle route no. 1, which I found, lost and found again... It was still more pleasant than the heavy traffic of the Rhône valley.
At Sierre, the track follows the river for 20 km. Quiet but monotonous. This evening, I can finally read a newspaper in French... and eat some real bread!
12ᵉ stage: Sion - Thonon-les-Bains
Wednesday 2 September - 110 km, 1000 m ascent
I left Sion in the morning to find cycle route no. 1. Well signposted, it follows the Rhône and the orchards. The hillsides on my right are covered in vines.
Without even passing through Martigny, I arrive in Monthey. There's one last difficulty: the Pas de Morgins (1371 m). Up to Trois Torrents, the slope is steep. It's heavy and I'm sweating profusely. After that, the slope eases off as far as Morgins, where the Swiss customs officers, very relaxed, stamp my card.
I let myself slide towards Châtel, then La Chapelle-d'Abondance, where I stopped for lunch. I was well advised: a serious thunderstorm broke out during the meal. By the time I set off again, the rain had stopped... but resumed a little further on.
Despite a puncture 6 km from Thonon, I'm still smiling: just one real shower in 12 days is almost a miracle!
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