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The Vallée Étroite pass

The Vallée Étroite pass (FR-05-2445c) is a discreet pass, overshadowed by its more famous neighbours: to the west, the Col des Rochilles (FR-05-2496) and to the east, the Fréjus pass (FR-73-2540 or IT-TO-2540). Yet this pass is one of the oldest traditional crossings between the Maurienne (Modane) and the Piedmont (Bardonèche) at the foot of the magnificent Mont Thabor (3178m).

The Vallée Étroite pass was included in the 30-40 years of the XX^e At the time, it was a border pass and part of the «Maginot Line» of the Alps. Since the Franco-Italian agreements of 1947, the border has been extended to just a few kilometres from Melezet, placing the Vallée Étroite in France's hands. Although there are no soldiers here, the pass is now used by many hikers on the GR5. The Vallée Étroite pass can be climbed on either side.

Here's a glimpse of its southern face. Leave Melezet on a beautiful road that climbs a first ramp to reach the small plain of Pian de Colle. On the right, on the slope, the laces of the Col de l'Échelle (FR-05-1762) that takes you into the Clarée valley towards Névache. After crossing the (symbolic) border, a second steep ramp runs alongside a small dam. Five hairpin bends higher, the tarmac gives way to a wide R1 track that eventually leads into the Plaine de Vauzenet. This will be the case throughout the ascent, which takes place in successive steps like a giant staircase.

The valley is magnificent, and those in the know will see it as a typical glacial valley, with its vertical walls and feet cluttered with mighty scree. The larch trees are everywhere, reflecting the dry, sunny climate, and the clear waters of the torrent, which the trail mostly follows, add to the charm. After a sheepfold (elevation 1711m), the tarmac reappears and four hairpin bends later you reach the «Granges de La vallée Étroite», the starting point for many hikes. There are some welcoming refuges here and you can eat something to build up your strength for what's to come... Don't take the track that runs between the houses, instead go around the hamlet on the slope to the left (GR5 markings). The track is still very cycleable as far as the Pont de la Fonderie (at the foot of old mines). Be careful, this bridge is not the one that is clearly visible on the right (elevation 1697m), it is hidden under the larches, further upstream (follow the signs). This is where the most demanding part of the climb begins (see 1 on the attached map).

From now on there is only one path. It starts with an S3 push for about 250m, then follows an S2 landing, before crossing a fairly steep glacial lock: S3-4 for 500m. But what a view from the top! Glacial erosion has left behind some beautiful, typical mottled rock. The path becomes partly cycleable again and gently slopes down into the Vallon and Plaine de Tavernette where the torrent meanders, while Mont Thabor keeps watch on the left. The countryside is wild and the scenery magnificent. But this bliss soon comes up against the second difficulty of the climb (see 2 on the attached map). We have to cross a final lock on a path strewn with boulders (S3-4 for around 500m), but phew! The main part is done and we reach the col (2445m) fairly quickly without too much difficulty (S1, S2). The scenery at the summit is magnificent, very wild. To the west, you can see the Mont Thabor refuge and, heading in that direction, it takes five minutes to reach the Passage Sainte-Marguerite, marked by a cross.

The descent to the other side of the Col de la Vallée Étroite is made at 90% on the bike. Take a path S1-2 to the right and you will come out above the Col de la Replanette (FR-73-2338) and from this pass, through the alpine pastures (HS1), we find a track R1-2 then R1 to the chalet de la Replanette. Then begins a sumptuous descent to the resort of Le Charmaix, where you return to tarmac and Modane at the bottom of the Maurienne valley (1400m ascent from the Col de la Vallée Étroite!).

Text and photos by René Poty