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The Parpaillon saga

Mythique Parpaillon - Michel Nau CC n° 2825 Couzeix (Haute-Vienne) - magazine n° 29, 2001

There were four of us friends—Pierrot Guitard, Roger Dureisseix, Gérard Broweys and myself, Michel Nau—who daydreamed constantly about the Parpaillon, which had been described at great length in the many articles we pored over in specialist cycling magazines; Never able to get enough of these stories, our desire to tackle this pass on mountain bikes grew stronger over the years, even though getting us all together, if only for the time needed to complete the expedition, didn’t seem very easy!

First envisaged in 1998, then in 1999, it was finally on 22 July 2000 that we set course for Embrun with a folksy stay at the Hôtel du Lion d'Or, from where we peered apprehensively at the peaks, so uncertain was the weather and so frequent and violent were the storms; the local regulars did not fail to warn us, insisting on the risks of breaking our way at altitude and, consequently, on the dangers of everyday mountain life. It's true that we're worried about making all this travel for nothing, but you also have to know how to look after yourself and, after all, coming back at a later date is right up our street, especially as we intend to make the most of the mountain scenery!

25 July 2000 turned out to be the «D» day; the sun was shining brightly as we got up and, according to the locals, there was no time to lose if we were to make the most of it and be back before the storms at the end of the day; there was a flurry of activity at breakfast time and as we prepared our mounts and rucksacks; we had to make sure we had the right equipment and plan for all the changes in the weather as well as our dietary requirements, all factors that would determine the success of the day.

The start is both reassuring and worrying, as you have to descend for 2 kilometres to the bridge over the Durance, at an altitude of 799 m, whereas our target altitude is 2650 m, having started at 850 m! But this first section is surfaced, and it's the same after the bridge to climb back up along the Crévoux; the gradients are very irregular and sometimes steep, but nothing is impossible if you like it, especially on a comfortable surface, with a backdrop of marvellous mountains, pretty little villages and the sound of the nearby stream; it's a real treat!

The village of Crévoux, at 1585m, marks a turning point in the climb; first it's the end of tarmac and then it's the start of the serious stuff, with steep to very steep slopes (12 % average), in gravel on a path deformed by numerous ruts, the result of recent bad weather. We met a few walkers, but civilisation was becoming increasingly rare. We made an interesting stop in the town square of Crévoux, where there was a lovely fountain, allowing us to refill our water bottles and take a breather before tackling the 12.5 km, 1065 m climb to the Parpaillon tunnel.

Now it's a real adventure, on a sometimes rough path, but we've never had to put our feet down! We must be in pretty good shape, because the gradients are often steep and the distance never-ending. First there's the forest, with all its charm, then we emerge into the mountain pastures that stretch as far as the eye can see; it's magical. A Swiss mountain biker overtakes us 3 or 4 kilometres from the summit. He looks very comfortable, and so do we, just a little slower!

We leave the mountain pastures about two kilometres from the summit. As we pass the last farm at altitude, the landscape becomes lunar and the rocks give way under our tyres; we make steady progress, hoping at every bend to discover the black hole of the Parpaillon tunnel; this vision is long overdue, to the point where we sometimes despair as we are now feeling so tired... It's 1pm and it's time for a well-deserved rest and a bite to eat! ... And then, suddenly, the final esplanade opens up, with a tunnel running right through the centre of the mountain... It's the apotheosis for us! The dream becomes reality...

You have to take the temperature into account too; there’s no question of having lunch without wrapping up warm first. We worked up quite a sweat on the climb, but here, at 2,650 metres, facing the draughty chimney that is the tunnel, it’s best to put on winter gear. We’re glad we brought them, even though on rides like this we sometimes tend to travel as light as possible.

You can’t undertake an expedition like this without crossing to the other side of the tunnel, even if it’s a bit of a gamble given the lack of lighting and the gaping ruts; we make do with makeshift lighting to explore the other side, which leads to La Condamine-Châtelard; the landscape there is just as spectacular, but we don’t have time to linger because of the cold. We cross the tunnel again, covered in splashes from riding through puddles and dripping from the tunnel ceiling; it is finally with relief that we emerge into natural light to tackle a blistering descent towards Crévoux and Embrun.

We stop briefly at La Chalp to enjoy a nice beer, share our first impressions and change out of our winter gear; we’re elated, so much so that we do a few vigorous exercises on the way back, particularly on the final climb between the bridge over the Durance and the village of Embrun; a tough day, certainly, but what a wonderful one!… and to round it off, a much-appreciated dinner at the Hôtel du Lion d’Or, nice and warm, whilst outside it’s pouring with rain once again…

Finally, I would say that the Parpaillon is exactly as we imagined it; above all, it mustn’t change. The first section is well-tarmac-surfaced and therefore very easy to ride; we appreciate this all the more as the gradients are steep and our muscles need a good warm-up. Let’s not change anything about the wild character of the second section either; it would be a shame to pave a path that is such a delight for mountain bikers and hikers.

Similarly, the Parpaillon tunnel should be left as it is; its surprising and mythical nature alone makes it worth the climb.