Chauny-Thonon-Venise (Jean-Marc Lefèvre, CC 3331)
The end of a wonderful adventure
Preamble
Begun in 2000, the great crossing of the Alps (Alpine and Pre-Alpine) ended on 11 July 2003 in VENICE, at the end of the 4th ride organised by the Cyclos-Randonneurs-Thononais and led by Georges ROSSINI.
Afin de finir en beauté, je décidais de partir cette année de la ville où je réside : Chauny (Aisne 02) et ajouter ainsi 600 km et 4 étapes à ce périple.
It's customary in the industry to say that Thonon-Venice is the hardest and the most beautiful. I can confirm the 2th point, but personally Thonon-Trieste will remain the most difficult of the four for me.
Chauny-Thonon-Venice, completed in 14 stages, was a succession of beautiful and grandiose stages, pure joy. The particularly hot weather this year was undoubtedly a major contributory factor. It's worth noting, however, that the start at the end of June enabled me to avoid the heat and the inconveniences that go with it.
Chauny and Venice are 1878 kilometres apart, with 23,000 metres of ascent and 60 mountain passes. I invite you to follow some of the action in these few lines...
Preparation
On a journey like this, you can't leave anything to chance, and as a perfectionist by nature, I always apply myself to this exhilarating phase of a journey.
A long time ago, I decided to go on my long-distance treks alone. Although this often intrigues the average person, it does offer a number of advantages, not least freedom. Add to that the autonomy, and I think these 2 words sum up what has motivated me for over 20 years. Going off on my own has never scared me - on the contrary, it's a real pleasure.
Going abroad is always full of surprises and barriers. Language, of course, and it's not always easy to ask for directions, order a meal, book a hotel room or take the train. But once again this year, I'll be proving that, with a little perseverance, you can always understand each other. Sometimes there are a few surprises in store, especially when it comes to deciphering a restaurant menu, but that's all part of the journey. The trickiest part of preparing for Chauny-Venice was undoubtedly how I was going to get back to Chauny from Venice. Was flying the right solution?
Yes, without a doubt, at least the fastest, but at what price. A one-way trip from Venice to Paris is bordering on prohibition. So I'm opting for the train. It's pretty hard to get reliable information, some people say that you can get back from Venice with your bike without any problems, while others tell me that you can't get back from Venice with a bike. It's too bad to cancel a trip because of the return journey!
The information I got from friends in the 100 passes club reassured me a little, but you have to travel with your bike disassembled in a bag. In short, it's identical to the return from Trieste in 2000.
In fact, there is a direct train between Venice and Paris, with no changes (great). Departure from Mestres at 7pm, arrival in Paris at 9am the next day.
On such a return journey, what you need is a good dose of patience, because waiting 3 hours in Mestre, 3 hours in Paris is a long time, but the Alpine adventure is at that price, unless you opt for a return journey by bike, but then!
The start
It's 6.45am when I pose for the photo in front of the house. My wife hides her emotion, and so do I. There's always something cruel about leaving, it's like being torn apart. You have to leave quickly, and put your heart and soul into the journey...
Leaving your family for 15 days is no mean feat, 20 years in the business and still that twinge in my heart, that little voice inside me that seems to be saying:
-Don't go, stay at home...".
But the taste for adventure is too strong, and it would take a catastrophe to make me give up the idea of leaving.
And off I went!
Newly equipped with a digital camera, I'm determined to take some pictures. No sooner had I left Chauny than the photo was already delaying me. I like 'start/finish' style photos with the town sign prominently displayed, so why deprive myself? My camera has a capacity of 800 photos, so I've got plenty of room - in fact, I'll still take a whopping 300.
Chauny Mailly-le-Camp 162 km
L’itinéraire aujourd’hui est assez familier jusque Fère-en-Tardenois. Puis ensuite j’aborde la vallée de la Marne et ses belles bosses. En fait l’étape longue de 162 km sera assez vallonnée. J’arrive à l’hôtel St-Eloi à Mailly-le-Camp à 16 heures 45’. Un rapide tour de la ville (sans grand intérêt) puis repos.
I've booked the first 3 nights in a hotel. Then in Italy, I'll see where I am. Apparently there's no problem finding accommodation in Italy, which will prove to be true.
Mailly-le-Camp Moloy : 177 km
I start this stage at 7.30am.
The route now crosses the Aube department. 2 BPF controls will be added to my collection. (Brienne-le-Château and Clairvaux).
It's going to be a tough stage, with scorching heat today, and the rare 'bistros' are a welcome sight, so the long, endless straights are wearing on my strength a little, and I can't wait to get it over with.
A 18 heures, j’arrive à l’hôtel réservé. Par malchance il n’est pas encore ouvert. Déception, je rêvais déjà d’une bonne douche. Je fais le tour du village, et découvre au bout d’une petite ruelle, un véritable oasis. Une chambre d’hôte aménagée dans une maison typique. La propriétaire un peu surprise de me voir, accepte de me loger et après quelques hésitations, accepte de me faire le repas plus le petit déjeuner, que demander de plus ?
What a treat this omelette with chips and salad is, it cheers me up a bit. I fall asleep. At 9.30 p.m. there's no more cyclo, he's already asleep and to top it all off my bike is safe in the house!
Moloy Saint-Laurent-en-Grandvaux : 171 km
It was an easy start to the stage as far as Dijon, but it was a tough ride through this big city. I was kindly guided by a young cyclist, and after 1 hour of agony I finally got out of the prefecture of the Côte d'Or.
J’arrive à St-Jean-de-Losne à midi. Je n’ai fait que 62 km. La chaleur est de nouveau accablante, lourde, ça sent l’orage ? Je me restaure rapidement et reprends la route sans grand enthousiasme.
I treat myself to a nice little snack in a tea room in Arbois. The pastry chef asked me about my trip. When I told her I was going to Venice, she said mischievously:
-" I hope you meet a beautiful Venetian woman".
I reply immediately:
-" Do you think my wife will be happy?"
La dame, confuse, s’excuse, elle pensait naïvement qu’un Randonneur partant 14 jours sur un vélo ne pouvait être que célibataire ! Et bien non !
Après m’être sustenté généreusement, je suis prêt à affronter la montée vers Champagnole. Là, je rencontre un confrère Diagonaliste. Me voyant à l’arrêt pour soulager un petit besoin naturel, notre homme n’hésite pas à faire ½ tour et vient bavarder quelques instants avec moi, sympa non ?
The terrain is quite marked now, which is normal as we're in the Jura, and tomorrow we'll be seeing the first passes, or so I was going to say!
It's 6.20pm when I enter the Hotel de la Poste, a lovely, friendly hotel. The weather is turning sour, and I'm afraid it's going to rain tomorrow!
Saint-Laurent-en-Grandvaux Saint-Gingolf : 95 km
This morning I got confirmation from the weather forecast: it's raining!
I climbed the Col de la Savine in the pouring rain and arrived in Les Rousses completely soaked.
J’ai beaucoup de souvenirs ici. Aussi je m’empresse d’acheter une carte postale pour immortaliser ce passage. En effet, plusieurs années de suite, je venais avec la petite famille m’adonner aux joies du ski de fond !
After Les Rousses, it's the ascent of the Col de la Givrine and the crossing into Switzerland.
J’ai opté pour la traversée du lac Léman entre Nyon et Yvoire, ceci m’évite un grand détour, et puis avouons le, la traversée du lac en bateau ne me déplait pas. Elle fût très rapide. Ensuite reprise de la route jusqu’à Thonon par l’horrible N5 toujours aussi dangereuse. J’ai hâte d’en finir. Arrivée à Évian, la faim me tiraille un peu. Je m’offre ma première pizza. Puis je repars en longeant le très beau lac Léman. J’arrive à St-Gingolf à 15 h 30’, il est encore tôt. Deux solutions, ou bien je continue, ce qui m’oblige à dormir en Suisse, avec les désagréments à prévoir d’une addition salée, ou bien je m’arrête à St-Gingolf côté Français. Le temps est menaçant, une étape plus courte me sera peut-être bénéfique, et puis après tout j’ai déjà gagné 30 km par rapport à mon plan de marche, qui prévoyait un arrêt à Thonon.
St Gingolf has the unusual distinction of being both French and Swiss, which is really strange!
My room at the Hotel National offers a magnificent view of the lake. It's a shame that the grey weather spoils the picture a bit. It's pouring down, so once again I've done well to behave.
The weather will be fine tomorrow!
Saint-Gingolf Saint-Oyen : 118 km
Today is the official departure from Thonon to Venice, and from now on I'll be leaving France for 10 days.
There's been little or no rain, but the heat isn't back yet. I had to endure a small hailstorm on the ascent of the Grand-St-Bernard.
Today's stage has two difficulties, including the ascent of Champex, a pass not officially recognised by the 100 cols club, but a difficult one nonetheless. It's a good warm-up. I stop for refreshments at the top in a superb Swiss inn.
J’avais prévu de faire étape à Bourg-St-Pierre, mais vu l’heure je poursuis ma route, et attaque le col du Grand-St-Bernard (le plus haut de ce voyage 2469 m ). L’ascension est facile dans sa première partie, puis à quelques km du sommet, il faut choisir, ou prendre le tunnel, ou continuer sur la petite route Pas d’hésitation possible, je m’engage sur la belle mais rude petite route qui me mènera au sommet du Grand-St-Bernard. D’ailleurs, je crois bien que le tunnel est interdit aux vélos.
We cross the border into Italy on the descent, and look for a hotel for the stage. We ended up in St Oyen, a charming mountain village and a lovely hotel. I was given a very nice room, all in solid pine. The price was a modest €34, including breakfast.
That evening, the atmosphere in the hotel was great. I met two Austrian cyclists who had set off from Antibes and were making their way back to their home country. Add an English tourist (not a cyclist), and we have a very cosmopolitan table, but it's hard to understand each other at times!
Saint-Oyen Biella : 147 km
Je quitte mes deux compagnons autrichiens après le petit déjeuner. Il est 7 h 50, j’attaque aujourd’hui ma 6th étape. J’ai déjà parcouru 731 km depuis Chauny. J’ai la forme, et quelque chose me dit qu’à partir de maintenant il va faire beau, il va faire chaud. Preuve en est dans cette étape. La traversée de la vallée d’Aoste est étouffante, j’ai repensé souvent à cette étape cet été, qu’il a dû faire chaud ! Cela devait être bien pénible au mois d’août avec cette canicule.
Aosta is easy to cross, then a long flat stretch to St-Vincent.
Le col di Joux aux pourcentages irréguliers tout au long de ces 15 km perturbe un peu cette relative tranquillité. J’ai droit à une superbe descente sur Verres où j’admire son château.
Je conforte encore aujourd’hui mon avance, et c’est à Biella que je pose mes sacoches. Biella est une grande ville. Aussi la recherche d’un hôtel bon marché est fastidieuse ! Je paierai la chambre 47 €uros.
J’aime bien le soir à l’étape flâner dans la ville et savourer une bonne bière ! La récompense après une dure journée de labeur !
Ce soir le petit bistrot ou je m’arrête, à l’air très sympa. Il s’y dégage une bonne ambiance. D’emblée le patron m’offre une assiette de toasts avec jambon d’Aoste plus beurre. Combien de bistrots feraient ce geste dans notre pays ?
As you will see from these pages, the Italians really are a friendly, welcoming people. I can say loud and clear that we have a lot to learn from our transalpine neighbours when it comes to the hotel business. With them, there are so many little details that turn your ordinary stay into a pleasant one.
The atmosphere in the café is friendly, and the customers (all male) try to get to know me a little better. I tell them that I travel by bike, and of course they admire me. I've already read this elsewhere, but I can confirm it: the bicycle is one hell of a communication tool.
Le repas du soir, sera pris dans un restaurant, également particulier. La salle est immense, très haute de plafond. À mon arrivée nous ne sommes que quatre clients. L’ambiance il faut l’avouer est froide, chacun se regarde un peu en chien de faïence, c’est bizarre, cela ressemble plus à une vaste cantine, qu’à un restaurant. Ici pas d’intimité, je quitterai ce lieu assez vite !
Biella Reno : 136 km
The 7th This leg of my journey between Chauny and Venice will be superb. On the one hand, the weather is fine, not very hot (I'll even get a little shower) but fine nonetheless.
The start of the stage, on a very aerial, very panoramic road, here you want to photograph everything, it's beautiful. The villages seem to be clinging to the mountains.
So caught up in the atmosphere, I lost my way a little and climbed up to the village of Piedicavallo: the end of the world!
At the end of this village, there are no more roads, and it's very picturesque. I find it hard to leave, I'm fine here, but the stage has only just begun.
La montée vers Bielmonte est un plaisir. Belle route, tranquille, pas de circulation. C’est incroyable, les routes les moins fréquentées sont d’une qualité irréprochable, l’asphalte semble fraîchement posé, aucun trou, du billard, on aime et on en redemande nous les cyclos ! Encore une grande qualité de cette région, la réseau routier est superbe, surtout sur les routes les moins fréquentées. Allez savoir pourquoi ?
Checkpoint at Bielmonte and souvenir photo taken by a group of mountain bikers (nobody's perfect!)
Then there's a succession of small passes known here as Bocchetto, with magnificent if not magical names: Bocchetto di Livrea; Bocchetto di Rubello; Bocchetta di Puntiggio. Add to that the fact that all this is downhill, and you've got to admit that the road to Venice is an easy one!
After Coggiola, the road continues downhill until it finally reaches Lake Maggiore.
Tonight I'll be putting my bike down in Reno, trusting the organiser, who has a list of hotels attached to the route.
I chose the "Alberga riva", a charming hotel on the shores of Lake Maggiore. From the balcony of my room, I can admire the boats on the lake. It's so beautiful and relaxing, and here life seems to have come to a standstill.
Once again I'd like to thank "the good fairy" who introduced me to this wonderful hobby of cycling. What a pleasure it is to travel by bike! Anyone who doesn't travel by bike doesn't know what happiness is, that's blunt but I mean it sincerely.
We don't serve meals here. Never mind, just walk 100 metres and I discover a restaurant, and what's more, we eat outside on the terrace and under an arbour covered in greenery... on the menu: homemade lasagne, what a treat!
Tonight I'm at the halfway point and in a week's time, if all goes well, I'll be in Venice!
Reno Torno : 112 km
If I keep saying that this is a great stage, or even the greatest, I'm afraid the reader will get bored. However, once again I have to say it, and I must even add that the 8th stage will be the most beautiful!
Aujourd’hui il fait très chaud, ça commence fort, je fais une erreur de parcours de 6 km. C’est pas grave ! J’ai la forme et le décor de rêve décuple mes forces. La montée vers Sella dell Casere est longue et pénible, mais là haut quelle récompense. Décor de rêve, décor de carte postale, imaginez :
With the forest in the foreground, the lake in the centre, the mountains in the background, the snow-capped peaks, the intense blue sky and the sun shining, Capanna Gigliola is the most beautiful checkpoint in the Thonon Venice Pre-Alps. This is a completely personal opinion, which may not be shared by everyone, but according to a friend from the Club des Cent Cols who lives just a stone's throw from the site, I was extraordinarily lucky:
-" Did you know that you are incredibly lucky to be able to see, appreciate and photograph Lake Maggiore and its mountains from the Gigliola refuge, there are on average only five fog-free days in the whole summer in this region. As a good regional climber, I pass through here several times a year and sometimes I can barely make out the mountains opposite! "(Jules DEJACE)
Capana Gigliola is a magical place, and I find it hard to leave. I absolutely want to record my great time here on film, and once again I swear that I'll be back with my wife, and why not on a bike?
The climb up the Passo di Cuvignone is difficult, it's hot and the gradient is severe, and then the plunge (I can't find another word for it as the gradient is so vertiginous) into Mesensava. I pass through some beautiful and picturesque villages and arrive in Switzerland for a brief stopover. I leave Chiasso (so many memories here, I passed through there 25 years ago with 3 friends, we were going to Corfu, I wasn't on a bike but I was travelling by train at the time!)
Here I am, back in Italy (I'll never leave it again). Como, a big city, is synonymous with a laborious crossing. Fortunately, two cyclists I met at a crossroads agreed to guide me and put me back on the right track.
The stage ends in Torno, a sad hotel (the ugliest of the trip) and what's more, the restaurant is full! But despite everything, I had an excellent meal in a panoramic restaurant overlooking Lake Como.
I'm worried, though, as my bike is stored in a garage 200 metres from the hotel. Tomorrow morning I leave early, as the restaurant will still be closed. It's agreed that the waitress will return my bike at 1am, when the restaurant closes? When in doubt, I set my alarm clock to go off in the middle of the night to see if my rossinante was waiting for me. And yes, the hotelier is serious, the bike is there and it's ready to go back with me!
Ah, love is beautiful...
Torno Saint-Pellegrino : 125 km
La montée vers Piano del Tivano est longue est difficile. Je croise beaucoup de cyclistes. C’est dimanche et ça roule par ici. Au col, malgré l’heure matinale (9 h 30) il y a foule. Les gens viennent passer la journée. Il fait beau et l’endroit est agréable. Après une descente dangereuse je fais route vers Lecco. Énormément de circulation et passage de longs tunnels.
Je quitte l’hôtel à 7 h 15’ sans le petit déjeuner comme prévu. Après quelques kilomètres, je m’arrête dans un bistrot ou je peux enfin savourer café et viennoiseries.
Leaving Lecco, we tackle the climb to Sella di Balabio. Endless queues of cars overtake me, and it's very dangerous, not to mention steep and very hot. Hard! Hard!
I stop for lunch and a breather. After my break, the long-awaited lull in traffic begins to make itself felt.
This time I'm leaving the lake region and heading for the high mountains. The rest of the day goes smoothly, but still with a constant stream of cars and motorbikes. The stopover in St-Pellegrino is a welcome one, the beautiful spa town world-famous for its good 'freezing' water.
Tonight I'm staying in a hotel, or rather a pension for the elderly. My neighbour at the table knows France well. He tells me all about the towns he's visited, and helps me choose my meal. Nice old chap.
Nevertheless, the meal was rather mediocre, and the breakfast not great either. I'm afraid I'll have to pay for it for the rest of my trip.
San-Pellegrino Bienno : 111 km
Today's stage will be scorching in every way. Suffocating heat from 11 in the morning, and difficult passes, such as the Passo della Pessalona. A highlight of the trip. Fortunately, the scenery is breathtakingly beautiful.
Arriving in Bienno, the chosen location for the stage, I looked in vain for the coveted hotel. In fact, it's just outside the town, several kilometres away. It's a steep climb to get to this hotel (the first hairpin bends of the Croce Domini, perhaps?) with its evocative name: Oasi Verde (the green oasis). I don't regret the extra few kilometres, though, because it's a magical place, and what's more, the owner and waiter speak French here, and most of the guests this evening are French.
Très belle étape, dans une excellente ambiance, je la recommande. Le patron vient discuter avec moi à la fin du repas, il pratique le vélo, et m’annonce les joies qui m’attendent demain avec l’ascension du Croce Domini, 15 km de montée pour atteindre la côte 1892 m.
Bienno Ponte-Arche : 119 km
J’attaque le col à 7 h 30. Le patron de l’hôtel, est déjà dans son super jardin, il m’encourage.
Dès la sortie du village on attaque sévère. Les pourcentages irréguliers ajoutent de la difficulté dans cette montée du Crocce Domini. Le final dans les alpages est magnifique. J’atteinds le col à 10 h 45. La route vers Riva Garda, n’est qu’une succession de faux plats et de grimpées de petits cols, comme le Passo de l’Ampola.
Avant l’entrée dans Riva Garda, située au pied du lac de Garde, traversée de 2 très long tunnels (3,6 km et 1,2 km) mais relative tranquillité côté circulation.
It's very hot here. I can't resist the pleasure of a nice ice cream.
I climbed to Tenno in the heatwave and stopped off at Ponte Arche. This evening I entered the Dolomites, another highlight of this trip.
With 3 stages left to reach Venice, I'm still in good shape and my spirits are high.
My bike spends the night next to the stoves in the restaurant kitchen!
Ponte-Arche Noval-Levante : 125 km
La première étape dans les Dolomites se fera encore sous le signe de la chaleur. Succession de petits cols, et passage sur une route toute plate pendant 18 km. C’est rare il faut le souligner.
The final climb of the day is the Passo di Lavaze, with its impressive percentage (18%, as the sign indicates). I'm pleased to have climbed it entirely by bike, but at a much slower pace. At the pass, I had a well-deserved snack break, checked my logbook and filled my water bottles.
I had a moment of panic when I got to the bottom of the pass and realised I'd forgotten a water bottle on the café table. Too bad, but there's no way I'm going back up that pass. I must have been over the moon, still in shock from that great climb!
I arrive in Nova-Levante, a charming mountain village typical of the Italian Tyrol. The hotels and buildings are all decorated with beautiful, colourful flower boxes on their balconies. The unobstructed view of the Dolomites gives me some great shots.
Nova-Levante Agordo : 127 km
Today is the big, beautiful stage in the Dolomites. The kind of stage you dream about when you're planning your trip. I won't be disappointed.
The weather is splendid. The intense blue sky promises some great photos. I'm in great shape. Another great day ahead.
After a pleasant climb out of Nova-Levante, you arrive at Lake Carreza (after Capanna Gigliola, the most beautiful viewpoint on this tour).
Vraiment particulier les Dolomites : de la dentelle, voilà le mot, c’est de la dentelle, pas une montagne ne ressemble à cela, vraiment très beau, et le tout sur un fond de ciel bleu azur. Magique ! Féerique ! J’en prends plein les yeux. Je regrette d’être obligé de partir si vite. Je voudrais rester des heures à contempler cette merveille de la nature mais la route jusque Agordo et deux cols à plus de 2000 mètres m’attendent.
The Passo di Valles is the first 2000 of the day. It's pretty tough, but the view is so spectacular that you sometimes forget the slope (liar!!!).
Je m’offre un excellent repas au col, tout en contemplant le paysage : une assiette de pâtes Bolonaises ça vous ragaillardit un homme !
Après une descente vertigineuse, des pourcentages à faire peur ! Quand je pense que ma vie tient sur les 2 câbles de frein, il faut avoir confiance en sa machine, et cette année encore ma randonneuse* ne me fera pas défaut, aucun incident, aucune crevaison, rien, du billard.
*PUB: (I ride a "RANDO CYCLE" with "SCHWALBE" tyres).
This afternoon I have a compulsory check at the Passo di Costazza, and there's a nice surprise in store.
I was also surprised that our friend Georges Rossini didn't have a little surprise in store for us, as he does on every one of his tours, and here it is.
To reach the pass and the "Baita Segantini" refuge, you have to take an unpaved road, a rocky path that climbs and climbs...
Je suis un peu énervé, j’ai horreur des chemins muletiers lorsque je suis avec ma randonneuse et mes sacoches. La peur de tomber, de crever est omniprésente. Je me renseigne pour savoir où se trouve le refuge. Là-haut m’indique ces randonneurs pédestres. Il faut encore monter. Ils étaient franchement surpris de voir un cyclo arriver là ! Les kilomètres me paraissent interminables. Je ferai les ¾ à pieds en poussant ma Rossinante. Plus d’une heure pour atteindre le col et son refuge, situé au pied de la montagne, au cœur des Dolomites. C’est beau il faut l’avouer mais « galère » pour y arriver. La descente est encore plus laborieuse. C’est non sans joie que je remets mes roues sur l’asphalte. Ah ! sacré Georges ! Tu n’as pas ton pareil pour aller dénicher ces belles routes de montagne.
Longue descente pour me récompenser de mes efforts jusque Fiera-di-Primeirio où je décide de continuer sur Agordo. J’avais ignoré le Passo di Cereda et ses 15 %. Il me restera au travers de la gorge. Ah ! quelle journée. En plus j’ai des difficultés à trouver un hôtel. Je loge ce soir dans un « bed and breakfast ». Très grande maison, mes hôtes sont d’une extrême gentillesse. Au retour du dîner, ils m’offrent le café et le petit verre de « gnole ». À ce régime là, je vais atteindre Venise rapidement.
Une fois n’est pas coutume, et puis ce soir c’est la veille du grand jour, c’est la veille de l’arrivée à Venizia !
Agordo Venise : 145 km
Le confort inégalable de ce « bed and breakfast » se ressent encore ce matin. La salle pour le petit déjeuner est de toute beauté, tout en lambris. Rien ne manque. Je me restaure copieusement et quitte cette charmante demeure l’estomac bien rempli prêt à affronter les 150 derniers kilomètres de ce voyage.
The big difficulties are now behind me. The Passo St-Boldo becomes a mere formality. But the descent is spectacular. Imagine a road with very tight twists and turns, all in a tunnel. The architect who designed this road was clever enough to make it a one-way road with alternating traffic, and to make an open section after each bend. Surprising, and I think quite rare.
La route jusqu’à Trévise est à forte circulation. Il faut redoubler de vigilance. Je contourne Trévise et admire les riches maisons. A 15 h 30 je suis arrivé à Mestre, l’antichambre de Venise. Mestre est une grande ville. Je m’approche de la gare à la recherche d’un hôtel pour la nuit. Les tarifs sont ici prohibitifs. Mon choix se porte sur l’hôtel Giovanina. Il présente le triple avantage d’être situé à 300 mètres de la gare, de ne pas être trop cher, et d’avoir une cour et un abri d’où je pourrai démonter demain tranquillement mon vélo.
Une bonne douche, tee-shirt propre, randonneuse soulagée de ses lourdes sacoches et me voici parti pour l’ultime tronçon qui va me conduire par la fameuse route N11 qui enjambe la lagune jusqu’à Venise.
I was a bit apprehensive about this crossing, which many people say is very dangerous because of the traffic. In fact, there's a sort of cycle path that runs alongside the road and takes you completely out of harm's way.
Suddenly I saw the first houses of Venice in the distance, followed by the "VENIZIA" sign. At that moment, I felt great emotion, joy and happiness. Everything was racing through my mind. I'd arrived in Venice on my bike!
A couple of Hungarian cyclists taking the same route stopped short of me, and we exchanged a few words about the emotion we were feeling. The souvenir photo in front of the sign will immortalise this delicious moment forever.
This time it's over, I've reached the end of my journey, what happiness. Arriving in the city, I hurried to buy the first postcards and drink a good beer.
In the evening, I'll have dinner on the banks of the Grand Canal, with the gondolas in the background:
Elle est pas belle la vie !
The next day I returned to Venice, but this time by train, with my bike safely waiting at the hotel.
It's 4pm when I finish dismantling the bike. It's been placed in the large bag specially designed for this purpose and transported from Chauny on the rear luggage rack, along with a few tools.
Ensuite je me rends à la gare de Mestre. Là commence la partie la plus pénible du voyage : le retour. Il me faut attendre 3 longues heures sur le quai de la gare, puis 13 heures de train, ensuite le métro jusqu’à la gare du Nord. Là de nouveau 3 heures d’attente pour enfin monter dans le train qui me ramène à Chauny. Il est 14 heures quand je débarque sur le quai de la gare, fatigué mais heureux.
Duty done, Chauny-Thonon-Venice is over, and at the same time I'm completing the great crossing of the Alps by bike.
CHAUNY 16/11/2003
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