Chauny-Thonon-Venise (Jean-Marc Lefèvre, CC 3331)
The end of a wonderful adventure
Preamble
Begun in 2000, the great crossing of the Alps (Alpine and Pre-Alpine) ended on 11 July 2003 in VENICE, at the end of the 4th ride organised by the Cyclos-Randonneurs-Thononais and led by Georges ROSSINI.
To finish on a high note, I decided to set off this year from my home town of Chauny (Aisne 02), adding another 600 km and 4 stages to the journey.
It's customary in the industry to say that Thonon-Venice is the hardest and the most beautiful. I can confirm the 2th point, but personally Thonon-Trieste will remain the most difficult of the four for me.
Chauny-Thonon-Venice, completed in 14 stages, was a succession of beautiful and grandiose stages, pure joy. The particularly hot weather this year was undoubtedly a major contributory factor. It's worth noting, however, that the start at the end of June enabled me to avoid the heat and the inconveniences that go with it.
Chauny and Venice are 1878 kilometres apart, with 23,000 metres of ascent and 60 mountain passes. I invite you to follow some of the action in these few lines...
Preparation
On a journey like this, you can't leave anything to chance, and as a perfectionist by nature, I always apply myself to this exhilarating phase of a journey.
A long time ago, I decided to go on my long-distance treks alone. Although this often intrigues the average person, it does offer a number of advantages, not least freedom. Add to that the autonomy, and I think these 2 words sum up what has motivated me for over 20 years. Going off on my own has never scared me - on the contrary, it's a real pleasure.
Going abroad is always full of surprises and barriers. Language, of course, and it's not always easy to ask for directions, order a meal, book a hotel room or take the train. But once again this year, I'll be proving that, with a little perseverance, you can always understand each other. Sometimes there are a few surprises in store, especially when it comes to deciphering a restaurant menu, but that's all part of the journey. The trickiest part of preparing for Chauny-Venice was undoubtedly how I was going to get back to Chauny from Venice. Was flying the right solution?
Yes, without a doubt, at least the fastest, but at what price. A one-way trip from Venice to Paris is bordering on prohibition. So I'm opting for the train. It's pretty hard to get reliable information, some people say that you can get back from Venice with your bike without any problems, while others tell me that you can't get back from Venice with a bike. It's too bad to cancel a trip because of the return journey!
The information I got from friends in the 100 passes club reassured me a little, but you have to travel with your bike disassembled in a bag. In short, it's identical to the return from Trieste in 2000.
In fact, there is a direct train between Venice and Paris, with no changes (great). Departure from Mestres at 7pm, arrival in Paris at 9am the next day.
On such a return journey, what you need is a good dose of patience, because waiting 3 hours in Mestre, 3 hours in Paris is a long time, but the Alpine adventure is at that price, unless you opt for a return journey by bike, but then!
The start
It's 6.45am when I pose for the photo in front of the house. My wife hides her emotion, and so do I. There's always something cruel about leaving, it's like being torn apart. You have to leave quickly, and put your heart and soul into the journey...
Leaving your family for 15 days is no mean feat, 20 years in the business and still that twinge in my heart, that little voice inside me that seems to be saying:
-Don't go, stay at home...".
But the taste for adventure is too strong, and it would take a catastrophe to make me give up the idea of leaving.
And off I went!
Newly equipped with a digital camera, I'm determined to take some pictures. No sooner had I left Chauny than the photo was already delaying me. I like 'start/finish' style photos with the town sign prominently displayed, so why deprive myself? My camera has a capacity of 800 photos, so I've got plenty of room - in fact, I'll still take a whopping 300.
Chauny Mailly-le-Camp 162 km
The route today is fairly familiar as far as Fère-en-Tardenois. Then it's on to the Marne valley and its beautiful bumps. In fact, the 162 km stage will be fairly hilly. I arrived at the Hôtel St-Eloi in Mailly-le-Camp at 4.45pm. A quick tour of the town (without much interest) then a rest.
I've booked the first 3 nights in a hotel. Then in Italy, I'll see where I am. Apparently there's no problem finding accommodation in Italy, which will prove to be true.
Mailly-le-Camp Moloy: 177 km
I start this stage at 7.30am.
The route now crosses the Aube department. 2 BPF controls will be added to my collection. (Brienne-le-Château and Clairvaux).
It's going to be a tough stage, with scorching heat today, and the rare 'bistros' are a welcome sight, so the long, endless straights are wearing on my strength a little, and I can't wait to get it over with.
At 6pm, I arrived at the hotel I'd booked. Unfortunately, it wasn't open yet. Disappointingly, I was already dreaming of a good shower. I walk around the village and discover a real oasis at the end of a narrow street. A bed and breakfast in a typical house. The owner, a little surprised to see me, agreed to put me up and, after some hesitation, agreed to cook the meal and breakfast for me - what more could you ask for?
What a treat this omelette with chips and salad is, it cheers me up a bit. I fall asleep. At 9.30 p.m. there's no more cyclo, he's already asleep and to top it all off my bike is safe in the house!
Moloy Saint-Laurent-en-Grandvaux: 171 km
It was an easy start to the stage as far as Dijon, but it was a tough ride through this big city. I was kindly guided by a young cyclist, and after 1 hour of agony I finally got out of the prefecture of the Côte d'Or.
I arrive in St-Jean-de-Losne at midday. I've only done 62 km. The heat is once again oppressive, heavy, it smells of thunder? I had a quick bite to eat and set off again without much enthusiasm.
I treat myself to a nice little snack in a tea room in Arbois. The pastry chef asked me about my trip. When I told her I was going to Venice, she said mischievously:
-" I hope you meet a beautiful Venetian woman".
I reply immediately:
-" Do you think my wife will be happy?"
The lady, confused, apologised, naively thinking that a Randonneur setting off for 14 days on a bike could only be single! But no!
After a generous meal, I'm ready to tackle the climb up to Champagnole. There I meet a fellow Diagonalist. Seeing me stopped to relieve a small natural need, our man didn't hesitate to come round and chat with me for a few moments, which was nice, wasn't it?
The terrain is quite marked now, which is normal as we're in the Jura, and tomorrow we'll be seeing the first passes, or so I was going to say!
It's 6.20pm when I enter the Hotel de la Poste, a lovely, friendly hotel. The weather is turning sour, and I'm afraid it's going to rain tomorrow!
Saint-Laurent-en-Grandvaux Saint-Gingolf: 95 km
This morning I got confirmation from the weather forecast: it's raining!
I climbed the Col de la Savine in the pouring rain and arrived in Les Rousses completely soaked.
I have a lot of memories here. So I rushed out to buy a postcard to immortalise my time here. For several years in a row, I'd come with my little family to enjoy cross-country skiing!
After Les Rousses, it's the ascent of the Col de la Givrine and the crossing into Switzerland.
I opted for the crossing of Lake Geneva between Nyon and Yvoire, which saved me a long diversions, and let's face it, I don't mind crossing the lake by boat. It was very quick. Then it's back on to Thonon via the dreadful N5, which is just as dangerous as ever. I can't wait to get it over with. By the time I got to Evian, I was feeling a bit hungry. I treat myself to my first pizza. Then I set off again along the beautiful Lake Geneva. I arrive in St-Gingolf at 3.30 pm - it's still early. I have two options: either I carry on, which means I have to sleep in Switzerland, with the inconvenience of a hefty bill, or I stop in St-Gingolf on the French side. The weather is threatening, perhaps a shorter stage will be beneficial, and after all I've already saved 30 km compared with my route plan, which called for a stop in Thonon.
St Gingolf has the unusual distinction of being both French and Swiss, which is really strange!
My room at the Hotel National offers a magnificent view of the lake. It's a shame that the grey weather spoils the picture a bit. It's pouring down, so once again I've done well to behave.
The weather will be fine tomorrow!
Saint-Gingolf Saint-Oyen: 118 km
Today is the official departure from Thonon to Venice, and from now on I'll be leaving France for 10 days.
There's been little or no rain, but the heat isn't back yet. I had to endure a small hailstorm on the ascent of the Grand-St-Bernard.
Today's stage has two difficulties, including the ascent of Champex, a pass not officially recognised by the 100 cols club, but a difficult one nonetheless. It's a good warm-up. I stop for refreshments at the top in a superb Swiss inn.
I'd planned to stop off at Bourg-St-Pierre, but given the time of day, I'm going to continue on and tackle the Col du Grand-St-Bernard (the highest pass on this trip, 2469 m). The first part of the ascent is easy, but a few km from the summit, I have to choose: either take the tunnel, or continue on the small road. No hesitation, I take the beautiful but rough small road that will take me to the summit of the Grand-St-Bernard. Incidentally, I think the tunnel is off-limits to bikes.
We cross the border into Italy on the descent, and look for a hotel for the stage. We ended up in St Oyen, a charming mountain village and a lovely hotel. I was given a very nice room, all in solid pine. The price was a modest €34, including breakfast.
That evening, the atmosphere in the hotel was great. I met two Austrian cyclists who had set off from Antibes and were making their way back to their home country. Add an English tourist (not a cyclist), and we have a very cosmopolitan table, but it's hard to understand each other at times!
Saint-Oyen Biella: 147 km
I leave my two Austrian companions after breakfast. It's 7.50 a.m. and today I start my 6th stage. I've already covered 731 km since Chauny. I'm in good shape, and something tells me that from now on it's going to be sunny and warm. The proof is in this stage. The crossing of the Aosta Valley is stifling, and I've often thought about that stage this summer, how hot it must have been! It must have been really tough in August with that heatwave.
Aosta is easy to cross, then a long flat stretch to St-Vincent.
The Col di Joux, with its irregular gradients throughout the 15 km, slightly disrupts this relative tranquillity. I had a superb descent to Verres where I admired its castle.
I consolidated my lead again today, and it was in Biella that I set down my panniers. Biella is a big city. It's a big city, so it's hard to find a cheap hotel! I'll pay €47 for a room.
I like to stroll around the town in the evening and enjoy a good beer! The reward after a hard day's work!
This evening the little bistro where I'm stopping looks very nice. There's a great atmosphere. Right away, the owner offers me a plate of toast with Aosta ham and butter. How many bistros would do this in our country?
As you will see from these pages, the Italians really are a friendly, welcoming people. I can say loud and clear that we have a lot to learn from our transalpine neighbours when it comes to the hotel business. With them, there are so many little details that turn your ordinary stay into a pleasant one.
The atmosphere in the café is friendly, and the customers (all male) try to get to know me a little better. I tell them that I travel by bike, and of course they admire me. I've already read this elsewhere, but I can confirm it: the bicycle is one hell of a communication tool.
The evening meal will be taken in a restaurant that is also very special. The room is huge, with very high ceilings. When I arrived, there were only four of us. The atmosphere is admittedly cold, with everyone staring at each other in awe. It's strange, more like a vast canteen than a restaurant. There's no privacy here, and I'll be leaving this place soon enough!
Biella Reno: 136 km
The 7th This leg of my journey between Chauny and Venice will be superb. On the one hand, the weather is fine, not very hot (I'll even get a little shower) but fine nonetheless.
The start of the stage, on a very aerial, very panoramic road, here you want to photograph everything, it's beautiful. The villages seem to be clinging to the mountains.
So caught up in the atmosphere, I lost my way a little and climbed up to the village of Piedicavallo: the end of the world!
At the end of this village, there are no more roads, and it's very picturesque. I find it hard to leave, I'm fine here, but the stage has only just begun.
The climb up to Bielmonte is a pleasure. Beautiful, quiet road, no traffic. It's incredible, the roads less travelled on are of impeccable quality, the asphalt looks like it's been freshly laid, there are no holes, it's like billiards - we cyclists love it and we want more! Another great thing about this region is that the road network is superb, especially on the roads less travelled. Who knows why?
Checkpoint at Bielmonte and souvenir photo taken by a group of mountain bikers (nobody's perfect!)
Then there's a succession of small passes known here as Bocchetto, with magnificent if not magical names: Bocchetto di Livrea; Bocchetto di Rubello; Bocchetta di Puntiggio. Add to that the fact that all this is downhill, and you've got to admit that the road to Venice is an easy one!
After Coggiola, the road continues downhill until it finally reaches Lake Maggiore.
Tonight I'll be putting my bike down in Reno, trusting the organiser, who has a list of hotels attached to the route.
I chose the "Alberga riva", a charming hotel on the shores of Lake Maggiore. From the balcony of my room, I can admire the boats on the lake. It's so beautiful and relaxing, and here life seems to have come to a standstill.
Once again I'd like to thank "the good fairy" who introduced me to this wonderful hobby of cycling. What a pleasure it is to travel by bike! Anyone who doesn't travel by bike doesn't know what happiness is, that's blunt but I mean it sincerely.
We don't serve meals here. Never mind, just walk 100 metres and I discover a restaurant, and what's more, we eat outside on the terrace and under an arbour covered in greenery... on the menu: homemade lasagne, what a treat!
Tonight I'm at the halfway point and in a week's time, if all goes well, I'll be in Venice!
Reno Torno: 112 km
If I keep saying that this is a great stage, or even the greatest, I'm afraid the reader will get bored. However, once again I have to say it, and I must even add that the 8th stage will be the most beautiful!
It's very hot today, and I'm off to a great start, making a mistake on the route by 6 km. No big deal! I'm in great shape and the dream setting gives me tenfold strength. The climb up to Sella dell Casere is long and hard, but what a reward. A dream setting, a postcard setting, just imagine:
With the forest in the foreground, the lake in the centre, the mountains in the background, the snow-capped peaks, the intense blue sky and the sun shining, Capanna Gigliola is the most beautiful checkpoint in the Thonon Venice Pre-Alps. This is a completely personal opinion, which may not be shared by everyone, but according to a friend from the Club des Cent Cols who lives just a stone's throw from the site, I was extraordinarily lucky:
-" Did you know that you are incredibly lucky to be able to see, appreciate and photograph Lake Maggiore and its mountains from the Gigliola refuge, there are on average only five fog-free days in the whole summer in this region. As a good regional climber, I pass through here several times a year and sometimes I can barely make out the mountains opposite! "(Jules DEJACE)
Capana Gigliola is a magical place, and I find it hard to leave. I absolutely want to record my great time here on film, and once again I swear that I'll be back with my wife, and why not on a bike?
The climb up the Passo di Cuvignone is difficult, it's hot and the gradient is severe, and then the plunge (I can't find another word for it as the gradient is so vertiginous) into Mesensava. I pass through some beautiful and picturesque villages and arrive in Switzerland for a brief stopover. I leave Chiasso (so many memories here, I passed through there 25 years ago with 3 friends, we were going to Corfu, I wasn't on a bike but I was travelling by train at the time!)
Here I am, back in Italy (I'll never leave it again). Como, a big city, is synonymous with a laborious crossing. Fortunately, two cyclists I met at a crossroads agreed to guide me and put me back on the right track.
The stage ends in Torno, a sad hotel (the ugliest of the trip) and what's more, the restaurant is full! But despite everything, I had an excellent meal in a panoramic restaurant overlooking Lake Como.
I'm worried, though, as my bike is stored in a garage 200 metres from the hotel. Tomorrow morning I leave early, as the restaurant will still be closed. It's agreed that the waitress will return my bike at 1am, when the restaurant closes? When in doubt, I set my alarm clock to go off in the middle of the night to see if my rossinante was waiting for me. And yes, the hotelier is serious, the bike is there and it's ready to go back with me!
Ah, love is beautiful...
Torno Saint-Pellegrino: 125 km
The climb up to Piano del Tivano is long and difficult. I pass a lot of cyclists. It's Sunday and it's busy here. At the pass, despite the early hour (9.30am), it's crowded. People have come to spend the day. The weather is fine and it's a pleasant place to be. After a dangerous descent, I set off for Lecco. Lots of traffic and long tunnels.
I leave the hotel at 7.15am without breakfast as planned. After a few kilometres, I stop off at a bistro where I can finally enjoy some coffee and pastries.
Leaving Lecco, we tackle the climb to Sella di Balabio. Endless queues of cars overtake me, and it's very dangerous, not to mention steep and very hot. Hard! Hard!
I stop for lunch and a breather. After my break, the long-awaited lull in traffic begins to make itself felt.
This time I'm leaving the lake region and heading for the high mountains. The rest of the day goes smoothly, but still with a constant stream of cars and motorbikes. The stopover in St-Pellegrino is a welcome one, the beautiful spa town world-famous for its good 'freezing' water.
Tonight I'm staying in a hotel, or rather a pension for the elderly. My neighbour at the table knows France well. He tells me all about the towns he's visited, and helps me choose my meal. Nice old chap.
Nevertheless, the meal was rather mediocre, and the breakfast not great either. I'm afraid I'll have to pay for it for the rest of my trip.
San-Pellegrino Bienno: 111 km
Today's stage will be scorching in every way. Suffocating heat from 11 in the morning, and difficult passes, such as the Passo della Pessalona. A highlight of the trip. Fortunately, the scenery is breathtakingly beautiful.
Arriving in Bienno, the chosen location for the stage, I looked in vain for the coveted hotel. In fact, it's just outside the town, several kilometres away. It's a steep climb to get to this hotel (the first hairpin bends of the Croce Domini, perhaps?) with its evocative name: Oasi Verde (the green oasis). I don't regret the extra few kilometres, though, because it's a magical place, and what's more, the owner and waiter speak French here, and most of the guests this evening are French.
It was a very nice stage, with an excellent atmosphere, and I'd recommend it. The boss came to chat with me at the end of the meal, he's a keen cyclist, and told me about the joys that await me tomorrow with the ascent of the Croce Domini, a 15 km climb to reach the 1892 m summit.
Bienno Ponte-Arche: 119 km
I hit the pass at 7.30am. The hotel manager is already in his super garden, cheering me on.
As soon as you leave the village, the attack is fierce. The uneven gradients add to the difficulty of this ascent of Crocce Domini. The final stretch through the mountain pastures is magnificent. I reached the pass at 10.45 am. The road to Riva Garda is a succession of false flats and climbs over small passes, such as the Passo de l'Ampola.
Before entering Riva Garda, at the foot of Lake Garda, there are 2 very long tunnels (3.6 km and 1.2 km), but the traffic is relatively calm.
It's very hot here. I can't resist the pleasure of a nice ice cream.
I climbed to Tenno in the heatwave and stopped off at Ponte Arche. This evening I entered the Dolomites, another highlight of this trip.
With 3 stages left to reach Venice, I'm still in good shape and my spirits are high.
My bike spends the night next to the stoves in the restaurant kitchen!
Ponte-Arche Noval-Levante: 125 km
The first stage in the Dolomites will be another hot one. A succession of small passes, and 18 km on a completely flat road. It's a rare thing, I must say.
The final climb of the day is the Passo di Lavaze, with its impressive percentage (18%, as the sign indicates). I'm pleased to have climbed it entirely by bike, but at a much slower pace. At the pass, I had a well-deserved snack break, checked my logbook and filled my water bottles.
I had a moment of panic when I got to the bottom of the pass and realised I'd forgotten a water bottle on the café table. Too bad, but there's no way I'm going back up that pass. I must have been over the moon, still in shock from that great climb!
I arrive in Nova-Levante, a charming mountain village typical of the Italian Tyrol. The hotels and buildings are all decorated with beautiful, colourful flower boxes on their balconies. The unobstructed view of the Dolomites gives me some great shots.
Nova-Levante Agordo: 127 km
Today is the big, beautiful stage in the Dolomites. The kind of stage you dream about when you're planning your trip. I won't be disappointed.
The weather is splendid. The intense blue sky promises some great photos. I'm in great shape. Another great day ahead.
After a pleasant climb out of Nova-Levante, you arrive at Lake Carreza (after Capanna Gigliola, the most beautiful viewpoint on this tour).
The Dolomites are really something special: lace, that's the word, it's lace, there's not a mountain like it, really beautiful, and all set against a backdrop of azure blue skies. It's magical! Fairy-like! It's a feast for the eyes. I regret having to leave so soon. I'd like to spend hours contemplating this natural wonder, but the road to Agordo and two passes over 2000 metres await me.
The Passo di Valles is the first 2000 of the day. It's pretty tough, but the view is so spectacular that you sometimes forget the slope (liar!!!).
I treat myself to an excellent meal on the pass, while contemplating the scenery: a plate of Bolognese pasta is sure to cheer a man up!
After a vertiginous descent, the gradients were frightening! When I think that my life depends on the 2 brake cables, you have to have confidence in your machine, and this year again my randonneuse* will not fail me, no incident, no puncture, nothing, billiards.
*PUB: (I ride a "RANDO CYCLE" with "SCHWALBE" tyres).
This afternoon I have a compulsory check at the Passo di Costazza, and there's a nice surprise in store.
I was also surprised that our friend Georges Rossini didn't have a little surprise in store for us, as he does on every one of his tours, and here it is.
To reach the pass and the "Baita Segantini" refuge, you have to take an unpaved road, a rocky path that climbs and climbs...
I'm a bit nervous, I hate mule tracks when I'm with my hiker and my panniers. The fear of falling and dying is omnipresent. I ask around to find out where the refuge is. The hikers up there tell me. You still have to climb up. They were frankly surprised to see a cyclist there! The kilometres seemed endless. I'll walk ¾ of the way, pushing my Rossinante. It takes over an hour to reach the pass and its refuge, located at the foot of the mountain, in the heart of the Dolomites. It's beautiful, I must admit, but it's a real pain to get there. The descent is even more arduous. I was delighted to get my wheels back on the asphalt. Good old Georges! You have no equal when it comes to finding these beautiful mountain roads.
A long descent to reward myself for my efforts as far as Fiera-di-Primeirio, where I decide to continue on to Agordo. I had ignored the Passo di Cereda and its 15 %. It will stick in my craw. Ah, what a day. What's more, I'm having trouble finding a hotel. Tonight I'm staying in a bed and breakfast. It's a very big house and my hosts are extremely kind. When I get back from dinner, they offer me coffee and a small glass of «gnole». At this rate, I'll reach Venice in no time.
Tonight is the eve of the big day, the eve of our arrival in Venizia!
Agordo Venice: 145 km
The unrivalled comfort of this bed and breakfast is still evident this morning. The breakfast room is beautifully panelled. Nothing is missing. I had a hearty meal and left this charming house with a full stomach, ready to tackle the last 150 kilometres of my journey.
The big difficulties are now behind me. The Passo St-Boldo becomes a mere formality. But the descent is spectacular. Imagine a road with very tight twists and turns, all in a tunnel. The architect who designed this road was clever enough to make it a one-way road with alternating traffic, and to make an open section after each bend. Surprising, and I think quite rare.
The road to Treviso is heavily trafficked. You have to be extra vigilant. I drove around Treviso and admired the rich houses. At 3.30pm I arrived in Mestre, the antechamber to Venice. Mestre is a big city. I approached the station in search of a hotel for the night. The rates here are prohibitive. I chose the Hotel Giovanina. It had the triple advantage of being 300 metres from the station, not being too expensive, and having a courtyard and a shelter from which I could quietly dismantle my bike tomorrow.
A good shower, a clean T-shirt, the hiker relieved of her heavy panniers and I'm off for the final stretch, which will take me along the famous N11 road over the lagoon to Venice.
I was a bit apprehensive about this crossing, which many people say is very dangerous because of the traffic. In fact, there's a sort of cycle path that runs alongside the road and takes you completely out of harm's way.
Suddenly I saw the first houses of Venice in the distance, followed by the "VENIZIA" sign. At that moment, I felt great emotion, joy and happiness. Everything was racing through my mind. I'd arrived in Venice on my bike!
A couple of Hungarian cyclists taking the same route stopped short of me, and we exchanged a few words about the emotion we were feeling. The souvenir photo in front of the sign will immortalise this delicious moment forever.
This time it's over, I've reached the end of my journey, what happiness. Arriving in the city, I hurried to buy the first postcards and drink a good beer.
In the evening, I'll have dinner on the banks of the Grand Canal, with the gondolas in the background:
What a life!
The next day I returned to Venice, but this time by train, with my bike safely waiting at the hotel.
It's 4pm when I finish dismantling the bike. It's been placed in the large bag specially designed for this purpose and transported from Chauny on the rear luggage rack, along with a few tools.
Then it's off to Mestre station. This is where the most difficult part of the journey begins: the return journey. I had to wait 3 long hours on the station platform, then 13 hours on the train, then the metro to Gare du Nord. Then another 3-hour wait before finally boarding the train back to Chauny. It was 2pm when I arrived on the station platform, tired but happy.
Duty done, Chauny-Thonon-Venice is over, and at the same time I'm completing the great crossing of the Alps by bike.
CHAUNY 16/11/2003
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